2008 toyota tacoma brake issue

Hello,

so to explain my whole situation i'll start from the beginning.

I had to replace front passenger side CV boot.
putting it back together i notice the caliper had twisted slightly from hanging on a bungie cord. I slowly twisted it back to line everything and the shape of the line is slightly different but fluid flows through the caliper no problem when bleeding.

I also had to compress the caliper pistons slightly to fit it over the rotor.


Ok now the problem. when i drive, the first time i step on the brake after not touching it for a while, the pedal freely moves almost to the floor where it then stops on a dime. if i touch the brake again, it feels like it normally did before i touched anything.

I've bled the system multiple times with the car off never letting the master cylinder go below half.

I just took it to my mechanic friend and he bled the system with the car on for me because it has ABS, and according to him it has to be done that way as well.

needless to say its still exactly the same.

any ideas?

is there a bleeder nipple anywhere other than the 4 tires that needs to be bled? the old toyota trucks had a brake reservoir under the truck bed with a bleeder but did not fine one on this one.

i've read it could be the master cylinder but the truck was perfectly fine before. and i hope its not the case with only 50,000 miles.

i've never run into this issue with any of my other Toyota trucks.

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU!!!

 

I found this when i seached other threads from User name Bart Star. do you think this sounds reasonable?

 

Another thing to add i jsut thought of...i did unplug the ABS sensor to remove the sprindle....and i just read a few things about ABS stops. anything ringing a bell?

COME ON!!!! where are all the Pros haha

 

Bump...Please Help lol

 

mine did the same although i did not disconnect the ABS ...it seemed as if i had air in the lines ...pedal hit the floor and no brakes i just continuously pummped and it started to work

 

Pumped with the car on on or off?

 

Sorry, not to sound stupid, but pump and bleed, or just pump, turn on car, then drive lol.


My assumption is obv pump and bleed

 

yea i know all of that haha....i just did it with the car off/ and the car all running.

this is my last option and i hope it works.

than ks for all the help

 

Special tool is required to bleed master cylinder in Offroads. or to bleed ABS unit itself.
Dirty way to bleed ABS unit is to
1. Find a dirt road preferable downhill.
2. Speed up then hammer brakes until ABS kicks in
3. Do that going forward and backward.
4. Bleed brakes again until air is out.

 

i never got the level to low. each time i did a tire i would check the level and refill if needed.

what kills me is i never opened the brake system. heck i never even had to remove the cap off the master cylinder to refill lol.

even though 2 mechanins told me the brake line i moved is fine....i have a feeling its that. since i have to beed again, i'm just going to replace the 6in hardline to relieve myself of any aggravation.


once again...thanks for all the help.

 

So this is what the divers side brake line looks like (the side i ddin't touch)




And this is the passenger side line after twisting. i just went out there and did not feel any leaks but i have to swear that this coming out and alomost a 90 degreee angle has something to do with it.



God help me if its the master cylinder.

 

hey check your bearings i know it sounds stupid but check it

 

what bearings do you want me to check lol. and what does it have to do with brakes?

 

anyone know off hand what size thread that brake line is?

 

I see what you did here ... pretzels

 

hahahah year wasnt really sure how to tackle it.....u think twisting created some sort of air bubble and/or the line is restricting fluid from going to the caliper?


and yes i have a flaring tool. i'm just going to buy an new brake line, use these ends and reattach lol

 

Twisting not but those steel lines when abused tend to crack. and if crack is tiny enough it won't leak fluid but it will leak air. Plus if line is collapsed its probably restricting fluid flow either way you need to fix that first, before moving to master cylinder.
Your truck is not VSC right ? So I dont think you have anything special in the master cylinder, fix the line bleed brakes, go to some dirt road and hammer the brakes until ABS kicks in then bleed brakes again and you should be good.

 

Also your friend is confused. Your truck is not TRD (aka does not have ATRAC) so you bleed the brakes normally. ABS can not be bled unless its activated so its either trip to the dealer or finding dirt road and hammering brakes few times for ABS to activate (you gonna know that happens because of the sound)
If you bleed brakes with engine on you will run out of the fluid in the reservoir unless you have your wife on brake fluid duty.

 

You probably cracked that line enough to get air into it. i would probably change out that hard line. Also it could have bent the flaring at the end, also would need to replace it. Just call the dealer and they will give you all the specs for it all