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Need help choosing a battery isolator

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by pos3idon, May 21, 2011.

  1. May 21, 2011 at 11:09 AM
    #1
    pos3idon

    pos3idon [OP] Active Member

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    2011 Tacoma 4x4
    12 Volt outlet in bed, Leer Topper, UltraGauge, second battery
    I am preparing for a long road/camping trip and I am going to install a deep cycle battery in the bed to power my accessories (small lights, fan ect) while the vehicle is off; however I am having trouble choosing a good battery isolator that will prevent my alternator from becoming overwhelmed; I'm thinking that there should be a manual disconnect so that if it deeply discharges I can remove it from the charging loop until I can use a battery charger to prevent it from stressing the alternator. What do you think?

    Thanks for the help!

    NOTE: I have a 2011 Tacoms 2.7L with the stock alternator (I think it's 60 amps, can anyone verify this?)
     
  2. May 21, 2011 at 4:26 PM
    #2
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    There are two types of isolators one is solid state and requires changes to your alternator wiring the other is a solenoid type that only requires a signal from the key switch by far the simplest. It connects between the batteries turns on with the key and charges both batteries (your alternator will charge both just fine) when you turn the key off it disconnects so it won't kill your truck battery. They look like a Ford starter relay but they are not be sure your auto parts store knows what you are trying to do or just get one from an RV dealer.
     
  3. May 21, 2011 at 5:19 PM
    #3
    Jerry Bear

    Jerry Bear Well-Known Member

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    Mesquite, Texas
    Vehicle:
    2010 Access Cab
    tint, topper, receiver hitch, trailer wiring, topper lighting, cruise control, intermittent wipers, backup camera, auto-dim mirror
    The standard alternator (without towing package) is fused at 120 Amps.
     
  4. May 21, 2011 at 5:39 PM
    #4
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    i dont know if you wanna buy something like this but this is the setup i have in my truck:

    two yellow tops and an IBS-DBS dual battery system.
    the system controls when to link or unlink the two batteries, you can also manual link or unlink them at anytime. In the auto position, the system links both batteries while the truck is running so that they both fully charge, as soon as you turn the truck off it unlinks them and runs your secondary battery only. And then of coarse you can link them back together manually if you like. I love the system. Got it from SierraExpeditions

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. May 21, 2011 at 7:56 PM
    #5
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Millions
  6. May 21, 2011 at 9:43 PM
    #6
    pos3idon

    pos3idon [OP] Active Member

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    12 Volt outlet in bed, Leer Topper, UltraGauge, second battery
    Allmotorex: I like the look of your system but because my truck is brand new I don't want to ditch the stock battery yet which is why I was thinking of putting the aux battery in the bed. I was looking at the T-MAX 47-3800 Dual Battery System ( http://amzn.com/B0026JCNJE ) but I can't seem to find any reviews, it looks very similar to your IBS setup but at $140 is a bit closer to my price range. What do you guys think of that system?
     
  7. May 22, 2011 at 3:57 AM
    #7
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    I have a Cole Hersee smart relay in my Toyota motor home they are simple, easy to hook up and work great. There are two extra wires one for an LED the other for a switch the switch allows you to combine the batteries with out the truck running nice if you have a weak truck battery. By the way the motor home is an "87" with a 60 amp alternator and it will charge all 3 of my MH's batteries while I'm driving.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2011 at 5:59 PM
    #8
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Central Coast, CA
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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    We did this to my buddies Grand Cherokee about ten years ago. He still has the Jeep, it's been a very reliable system for him. Requires a bit of thought to use, but he always just gives the starting battery a little time to charge up before trying to charge the secondary battery. The ability to self jumpstart is pretty cool too.
     
  9. Jun 13, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #9
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    the setup i have does all that too and more!! You can switch from manual or auto also
     
  10. Jun 14, 2011 at 1:34 PM
    #10
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    A boat yard or marine store has high current battery switches for around $35 1-2 both or off.
     
  11. Jun 14, 2011 at 3:42 PM
    #11
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    Memphis 901
    Vehicle:
    08 SR5 4wd 2.7
    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    i feel yeah, just throwin some light on the topic!:D
     
  12. Jun 17, 2011 at 12:36 PM
    #12
    pos3idon

    pos3idon [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    New York
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tacoma 4x4
    12 Volt outlet in bed, Leer Topper, UltraGauge, second battery
    Thanks for the help everyone; I read through countless manuals and tech specs for all sorts of battery isolator setups and ended up choosing this Blue Sea automatic charging relay: http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/387

    I liked that this setup only charges the auxiliary battery once the starter battery is fully charged; disengages if the starter battery drops below ~12.8 volts and will not engage if the Aux battery is below 10.5 volts; all of which help safeguard the alternator against undue stress. I'll post some pictures of it when I get home (on a 4 month road trip at the moment)
     

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