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That Dude Tim Alignment

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Nick54, May 24, 2011.

  1. May 24, 2011 at 5:24 PM
    #1
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    After a Firestone missfire at an alignment I posted here and a TW guy stepped up, That Dude Tim who works for Premier Toyota of Amhurst Ohio got me straight. Props to you Timmy Boy. However as with sunshine comes a little rain. The alignment looks much better and I'm no longer concerned I'm going to run the $900.00 tires off the truck. Down side, I had to remove my front mud flaps and trim the bottom inside edges of the fender flairs - stink ! Well here are the numbers

    May242011TacomaAlignment_5f7774a682fd3c07a0138ef5c4a47d03a09d8aef.jpg
     
  2. May 25, 2011 at 4:14 PM
    #2
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim Toyota Technician

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    Sorry about the rubbing, but that will get fixed.

    Will gladly redo the alignment for you. I felt bad with you going with them rubbing.
     
  3. May 25, 2011 at 4:22 PM
    #3
    PreRunnerSeth

    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    Read BJMoose thread on this and the LR UCAs. its a little bit down from here. I helped him solve his issues. When looking at your before caster numbers i see that you had a lot of extra caster. If you are like him you have the UCAs set at +2 or 3* of caster. When you dial in the caster at the top this moves your tires further back in the wheel well and then when the alignment guy adjusts the lower cam bolts to lower the caster and bring it back into spec then that moves your tire further back and causes more rubbing. I suggest you set your LRs to the 1* setting and then use the bottom stock cam bolts to get the caster right. this will throw out your camber and then use the slide camber adjustment on the LRs to get the camber back to spec. Setting the LRs at 1* of caster will help move your tire away from the back of the wheel well, then dialing in more positive caster at the bottom using the stock adjustments will move it even further back.
     
  4. May 25, 2011 at 4:35 PM
    #4
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim Toyota Technician

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    That's exactly what we talked about today. Weird thing though is i didn't have to do that on mine. Same tires/size, DC, lifted, LR UCA's, aftermarket wheels.
     
  5. May 25, 2011 at 4:40 PM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Nice alignment! YOu may be able to bump the Caster up to about .4*, and get more Caster (around 2.9*) and that will stop the rubbing.
     
  6. May 25, 2011 at 5:22 PM
    #6
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim Toyota Technician

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    Not possible, if I remember correctly the front adjusters ended up being set to max to get those numbers. The back ones too I believe.

    Nick wasn't sure what backspacing he has, but when we looked at my truck his front tires stick out farther. Less backspacing yes?
     
  7. May 25, 2011 at 5:30 PM
    #7
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    If he is running the LR UCA's, you can easilly get Caster to about 3* or more.
     
  8. May 25, 2011 at 5:33 PM
    #8
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    This ^^

    LR UCA's have 2* of caster built in @ their neutral setting .
     
  9. May 25, 2011 at 5:38 PM
    #9
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    To add, the OP's "before" adjustments show over 4* of Caster, while Camber is only .2* off the mark on the left....SO.....Getting 3* should be within easy reach.
     
  10. May 25, 2011 at 6:40 PM
    #10
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim Toyota Technician

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    Don't know what I was thinking there. I was aiming for lower caster without having to mess with adj caster on the UCA's. I ment I maxed out the adj to get caster were it is now.

    So if I get this right, by bumping up the caster with the factory adj, this will move the tire in the wheel well forward?
     
  11. May 25, 2011 at 7:03 PM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Yes. Using the factory adjustment cams. You shouldnt have to do anything with the UCA's.
     
  12. May 26, 2011 at 8:47 AM
    #12
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Downsouth UCAs, rear Icon "2.5" shocks and Toytec single AAL. Still gotta do exhaust, dark headlights and re-gear the rear diff.
    What makes this a nice alignment? I'm getting mine aligned right as I'm typing this. Am I looking to just hit factory specs or what? I'm on icon lift with down south UCAs and 4.5in BS hoss wheels.
     
  13. May 26, 2011 at 9:08 AM
    #13
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! Well-Known Member

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  14. May 26, 2011 at 9:22 AM
    #14
    PreRunnerSeth

    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    But, if you set the LR UCA to the +1* position you should be able to hit factory spec with the bottom and have the least amount of rub. if you are at + 3 or 2* on the LRs you will get the caster way up there with the factory adjustments. Doing both, Changing the UCA setting, then getting to spec with the lower factory adjustments will both help with clearance and keep you in spec.
     
  15. May 26, 2011 at 12:29 PM
    #15
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I went over to the ProComp web site to look at the wheel backspacing for my 7033's it's 4.75, don't know how much difference this makes.
     

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