CV Axle Install question

It's an axle, you won't break it.
Push it till it stops. And you're not going to tap it either. You're going to whap it nice and solid. Once you hit it, it will only go in another 1/4-1/2"

 

Uhh...you shouldn't be hitting the axle itself at all. OP has the right idea. Use a prybar and place it on the lip of the inner CV joint.
Like this:

 

Just lube the axle up real good before you insert it and try not to let the snap ring touch the axle seal and you'll be fine.

Also, I find it easier to place the opening of the snap ring so it's facing upwards. Gravity seems to help out.

 

The little rubber seal that you are inserting the axle itself into:



You won't know until you check it.
Hit it...and then pull the axle towards you. If it comes towards you, you didn't hit it hard enough.

 

Bible:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

Only difference is 2nd genners have two larger bolts on the bottom of the LBJ insteead of 4 smaller ones.

Speaking of....why the hell am I in the 2nd gen section?

...unsubbing

EDIT: Oh wait....you're a first gen!

 

Pretend it's a Ford. Hit it with a hammer nice and solid.
Easy Peasy.
If the axle is ready to go in, 30 seconds. The whole swap is about 15-30 minutes per side.

 

Make sure the axle is strait. If its not, put a 2x4 under it so it's mostly strait. Push it as far in as it will go till it stops. Put a prybar or whatever on the lip and smack the shit out of it 1 time really hard. If it doesn't go in, you'll have to re-align it again. 1 hit at a time, then check. Again, also make sure the snap ring opening is facing upwards.

 

It only takes one hit. It's not like your tapping in a bushing or a bearing so there's no need for hitting it around. You are just fighting the snap ring that needs to compress inside. If you've already pushed it in as far as it can go (which is about 1/4-1/2" from the end), it's aligned.

I use a 5 lb shorty sledge and a long prybar.