front differential side bearing replacement.. done!

if anyone doesn't want to make that adapter, you can rent a rear axle bearing remover to go with your slide hammer from Autozone.





here is how it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIG9Sc4dhYI

 

Hans, That's slick as sh-t. Almost makes ya want your bearing to go so you can use that tool. Good find. Thanks for posting it.

 

x2. I wonder if it has the correct size attachment? I guess maybe I need to get the bearing and take it in to my local parts store.

 

Also people were saying the needles sometimes fall out. When I do it, I'm going to stuff the inside of the bearing with a piece of foam to keep the needles in place before putting the washer in and screwing the nut of the axle bearing tool.

 

Sounds good. I hope I can find this thread when my time come.

 

Regarding the Needle bearing failure what causes this failure?From reading some of the posts I see late model trucks having this promblem with very low miles.Is there anything a person can do to prevent theses type of bearing failures.Thanks

 

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Nobody knows for sure, it seems to be a compatibility problem between the needle bearing and the axle shaft.
We can speculate as to the root such as:

1. Toyota engineers published the wrong specifications for the bearing materials OR that
2. the bearing manufacturer did something wrong when they made it.
3. It could also be that there are more than one brand or supplier of axle shafts that our trucks are assembled with.

Either way it remains unclear why it happens to some trucks and not all.

Best post on the root cause so far was Capspaulding:

Thank you sir! Rep for that video and knowledge of that tool.

 

My opinion: It is poorly engineered. The entire axle on this side of the truck is supported by this bearing and the VERY short spline in the diff. The passenger side axle is support by a larger roll bearing. the diff extension supports the side gear shaft that extends into the needle bearing on the Passenger side. This side has NO problems due to the support of the side gear extension. There should be a short extension on the driver side of the diff with an encased larger bearing and better support of this side axle. This is going to haunt Toyota real soon.

 

Bearings always fail due to one reason, inadequate lubrication.
Why there is inadequate lubrication ? Dont know. Not enough gear oil gets there maybe due to wrong level or something like that.

 

Right on buddy! I replaced mine a little while back did a lot of posting in the thread that was removed on this topic, thats a shame wish I had saved all that info. I totally agree that this sort of stuff is going to quickly degrade toyota's reputation.

 

90364-35010 is the needle roller bearing
is this the same as the output shaft bearing? because they are different prices.....

90311-47012 is the output shaft seal for the left side and that looks right. Did you not need the seal for the right side? i dont guess you could get to it without dropping the front diff.

thats the last few questions i have before my install.

and what is the axle bearing from rockauto? better replacement?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=118&partnum=B30

 

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That's not good. Stay tuned though, because I plan to replace mine at an upcoming mod day (early August). This will be my second bearing (first front diff was replaced by dealership in June 2010).

 

Having a tough time finding a bearing puller small enough.

FYI, came across this on the web. Interesting that this problem is an old one.
http://gearinstalls.com/needlebearing.htm

 

Interesting. The author of that makes it seem like it was/is a common problem among T100's. Wonder why 1st gens seem to have gotten away unscathed, unless there are a bunch of cases of the same thing with 1st gens that we just arent aware of.

So are you fixing to do a bearing replacement yourself soon Moose? I badly want to have a go at mine but I'm still nervous about the unknowns ... information about the procedure seems so patchy.

 

Maybe first gens were lighter and had less load on wheel bearings. I realized my pass side wheel bearing must have cause CV to wobble because seal was eaten by metal collar on CV. I had 125 on my first gen and did not have to replace Wheel bearings, my 2gen WB lasted only 40K

 

Yep, Aug 6 is Mod Day. 06RadiantRed will be there with his bearing puller attachment he made to fit on a slide hammer (see post #69). I was working on making an attachment using some large washers, but I think the 1.5" washers are just a hair too small, so next time I would use larger ones and grind them down to size. The biggest part of the job to me is just getting to it. I've never torn down anything so far before, so it'll be nice to have experienced people pointing out what I need to do to get the CV Axle out. While his bearing didn't come apart with the attachment he made, I'm going to cut a length-wise strip off a sponge and stuff it in around the puller in the bearing as a safety precaution to keep the needle rollers in there just in case. I'm going to take a camera and ask someone to take pics and then do a write-up (there are going to be 25 people there, so we're bound to have someone willing to take pics from start to finish).

Looking at the new bearing in person, I gotta say WTF? It sure feels cheap! Of course, I'm no expert on bearings (understatement at that), but it feels like such a thin piece of metal.

Yet I'm over 110K miles and no wheel bearing problems. Wonder why some of you have so many problems with them. But then the same could be said for those of us with the front diff bearing problems...

 

Awesome! This will be quite the story. I look forward to hearing about your experience and seeing pics.

 

That would be awesome if somebody from the mod day could do a detailed write-up with pics (and even video clips of critical steps). That would be a HUGE help. Hope it all goes well for you!

So are you just planning on replacing the bearing or are you going to replace the CV as well?