FX-R Retro progress...

edit: i want to thank everyone who helped and gave advice!!!

So thanks to the shipping company, I am now doing the FX-R Retro Fit for my left headlight... I've been lurking around ElectroMan's, G-Sak's, AzogSS's, Viet2100's pages... Also been PMing or texting wolfpack_5150 many times that he's prolly annoyed of me

I've got all the pieces on hand and most of the misc items to make this work... i havent gotten the hi temp black silicone or the GE silicone II w/d supreme (heavy duty) nor have i picked up the JB weld or the epoxy.

if they all accomplish the same job, i will probably go with the hi temp black silicon to cover the gap behind the projector and the bowl... also will it work for mounting the shroud onto the projector? if not, regular epoxy will work right? Also, i want to have my DTRL lens and the signals yellow, what did people use to accomplish that look?

So my progress so far as follows:
-Oven set to 300 and turned off
-Place light on cardboard and insert into oven for minutes
-Remove light and started to pry the light apart (needed to place in oven again because i r weaksauce)
-removed the reflector bowl and started to dremel away to make the hole bigger (reviewed the other DIY pictures over and over)
-Placed the projector in the bowl and marked where to drill holes for screw and then drilled

thats it for today....tomorrow i might start modifying the gattling shroud to fit over the projector. If you have any advice or suggestions, please do share as i'm a tad bit confused still where i need to shave off.

thank you all who has helped soo far!!!!

 

Use silicone to attach the shroud, and there is no reason to fill in the gap between the projector and bowl in the back.

 

which silicone??

Also, the gap you are referring to is the 3rd & 2nd to last picture correct??

 

upp

 

You dont need to trim the gatling shrouds too much in electroMan's post you can kind of see where you need to trim it. what I also did is dremeled on the inside diameter of the shroud. When you place the shroud on the projector you will see ware you need to trim.

 

ahhh ok... anybody use clear coat afterwards when spray painting the bowl or the shroud??

 

I wouldn't worry about clear coat I used krylon fusion for mine and have used it for 3 other BHLM's that I have done and have never had a problem with it. Just make sure you give your self a couple days to let the paint fully cure before you put the lights back together.

I'm in SD if you need help with any thing or want to check my retro out just let me know.

 

yup, thats exactly what i have: krylon fusion satin black...

i will definitely let the paint cure before putting it back together... Thanks, i might hit you up if i need help or confirmation

-AnT

 

Not a problem man just let me know.

 

Here's my setup. I made a bigger cut so the projector would sit further back into the bowl and the shroud would come closer to the reflecting bowl. I just epoxy glue the shroud to the edge of the projector and it fits nice and looks oem.

 

Looks good.

 

pic isnt loading for me on this comp... but when i get home ill check it out thanks

 

i see it now! wow.. big hole.

 

I will say your holes are HUGE but your retro looks awesome. I like the washers that you used those look like they worked perfictly.

 

i like the washers too

been reading alot about the placement of the projector on the bowl... how it can effect the light output?

my thoughts are:
place the projector in the middle of the bowl as much as you can... use the screws to adjust the light afterwards...

correcT?

 

Yes you want to place it in the middle as much as you can use the lines in the reflectior bowl to line them up as much as possable.

Once mounted in the reflector bowl you want the projector to be aimed just slightly down ward.

you will do most of your adjustments with the screws on the back of the light housing.

The most important thing is to get them horizontally levle because you will want your cut off lines to be levle with each other. You will only be able to do this once you have every thing mounted up and installed. After that you will be able to see if you need to rotate one or both of the projectors.

There is a post on hidplanet.com on how to align your projectors you will need to be 25' form a wall on levle ground. Your cut off should be horzontally levle and have a 2.1" to 2.5" drop in hight from the levle of your head lights on your truck.

In the end you should end up with something like this:

 

nice, but the other headlight (right side) is complete and has been adjusted already..... ... ill work on the shroud trimming/fitting and painting this weekend ... hehe

 

guys, am i missing something???

i got the positive and negative wire for the battery

i got the 2 big connectors for the ballasts

i got a pair of red/black prongs.....?? for the projectors??? if so, how come i only have a pair? shouldnt i have another for the other set of lights?? i was going thru rad's post http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/li...nstalling-my-retros-wiring-pics-inside-2.html

-AnT

 

The red and black wires with the prongs on them are for the projectors they controll the cut off shield for your high and low beam. You are correct there should be two of them. Have your completly unwraped the wireing harness to double check?

 

i have checked and there is only that 1 pair of red/black wires with prongs on them.

The other 2 wires that came with this purchase is the picture attached...

Just a little background info:

keep in mind, one headlight is complete. all ready to be plugged and used. It has a male end coming from the projector, I can use 1 of the other wires (female) and attach that to the 1 pair of red/black wires with prongs on them...

But the other headlight, well obviously, im working from scratch....and there is no other 1 pair of red/black wires with prongs...