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Warped Rotors

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Dimonback, Jun 24, 2011.

  1. Jun 24, 2011 at 3:44 PM
    #1
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The vibration from my rotors is getting so bad the steering wheel is beating my hands up at highway speed. Has anyone tried the Ebay drilled rotor/pad combos, and can give a review?
     
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  2. Jun 24, 2011 at 3:48 PM
    #2
    Max-4_Yota

    Max-4_Yota The Welfare Cadilac

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    This ^^ I wouldn't skimp when it comes to brakes.
     
  3. Jun 24, 2011 at 3:53 PM
    #3
    jgwheeler17

    jgwheeler17 I'm a zit. Get it?

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    neglect, mostly.
    is it common to have to replace them after just 6 years on these trucks? mine (to the best of my knowledge) have never even been turned and they seem fine.
     
  4. Jun 24, 2011 at 3:57 PM
    #4
    jgwheeler17

    jgwheeler17 I'm a zit. Get it?

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    neglect, mostly.
    yeah i know braking is hugely the main factor, but i just wouldn't have expected for someone to have to replace them after just 6 years (OP's truck). . . . speaking of, what miles do you have on it OP?
     
  5. Jun 24, 2011 at 7:36 PM
    #5
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just turned over 60k- it had 48, with some warpage when I got it. I do a lot of freeway driving now through Austin, which means a lot of braking. But none of my three 4Runners ever had ANY brake work, of any kind, in 100k miles. I expect this pup was abused bad by someone in her previous life.
     
  6. Jun 25, 2011 at 1:20 AM
    #6
    rzimm001

    rzimm001 Tearmytaco

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    My steering wheel was beating me up to. I had the rotors turned and installed EBC pads. Brake pad float went away :), but the wheel still shakes. I'm thinking the tires are finally going out of balance from all the wheeling but who knows.
     
  7. Jun 25, 2011 at 5:14 AM
    #7
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My shaking is only during braking, and the hotter they get, the worse the shake.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2011 at 5:18 AM
    #8
    samsung

    samsung Well-Known Member

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  9. Jun 25, 2011 at 6:37 AM
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    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Brembo makes good rotors.
     
  10. Jun 25, 2011 at 6:46 AM
    #10
    racerxtaco

    racerxtaco Well-Known Member

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    make sure when purchasing your new brake package that you don't get pads that are too soft for the rotors or to hard for the rotors. Incorrect matching of brake components is a huge factor in premature brake wear. Stick with a set that are compliment each other well. Also, if you were wanting to spend more on one component over the other ( pads Vs. rotors), I would choose the premium pad over the premium rotor.
     
  11. Jun 25, 2011 at 7:31 AM
    #11
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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  12. Jun 25, 2011 at 7:34 AM
    #12
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    OK, I got a question on this. Stock rotors seem 2 B shite. My steering wheel shakes a little and has for a long time. I'm pretty sure it is from warped rotors. I am not a race driver or an off road driver - 99% used to go to work - 99% highway driving. So stock rotors take just about no heat at all B 4 they warp. Question is if I just want a good rotor and pads that won't warp under conservative driving conditions - what should I go with ? I don't think I need slotted or drilled rotors just a good solid rotor that won't warp the first time I put on the brakes. Thanks for any suggestions.
     
  13. Jun 25, 2011 at 8:28 AM
    #13
    berry79

    berry79 Well-Known Member

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    EBC, rotors and pads.
     
  14. Jun 25, 2011 at 9:11 AM
    #14
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Did you mic your rotors to measure run-out? if not how can you be so sure they're warped.

    If you haven't mic'd em they probably aren't warped but have uneven pad deposits.

    Read this:

    http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
     
  15. Jun 25, 2011 at 9:20 AM
    #15
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.
     
  16. Jun 25, 2011 at 9:21 AM
    #16
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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  17. Jun 25, 2011 at 9:38 AM
    #17
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Never even considered this- thanks for the idea. However, I figure I can't go wrong trying to upgrade the brakes, which is my biggest complaint about the Taco. Last car was a Mazda CX7, with pretty astounding brakes- then jump into the truck and I'm completely underwhelmed.
     
  18. Jun 26, 2011 at 5:08 AM
    #18
    Dimonback

    Dimonback [OP] Well-Known Member

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    While I had my wife's car in for tires, I asked about the price of turning the rotors. The salesman started off down the warped rotor path, and I told him what I'd read in the article.
    Of course I started thinking- $150 per rotor, with labor, vs $50 machining- of course he's going to discredit the idea of material deposits. Hmmm.
     
  19. Jun 26, 2011 at 5:44 AM
    #19
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    I think the brakes on the six-lug trucks are pretty good actually. The front disk, at least... rear disks vs. drums would be better but they work well enough.

    The front are 4-piston with a thick meaty rotor and can take a lot of heat. But they need a little warming before they bite so first times to brake pedal effort is high until the pads heat up. They also have a nice long life, especially the rear drums.

    This is a good set up for a truck,IMO. Put a 3000 lb trailer w/out surge brakes behind 'em and another thousand pounds in the bed and you'll appreciate 'em better when descending a twisty mountain road.
     
  20. Jun 26, 2011 at 11:53 AM
    #20
    michaelg589

    michaelg589 Well-Known Member

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    Ebay brakes. I've never heard a worse idea.

    Drilled rotors are a terrible idea in the first place. Let alone buying no-name brand ones off Ebay. Slotted rotors are also a bad idea and completely unnecessary.

    REPLACING YOUR FACTORY ROTORS WITH EQUAL DIAMETER SLOTTED AND/OR DRILLED ROTORS WILL NOT INCREASE BRAKE PERFORMANCE.

    Slots and holes are for looks only. By using them, your decreasing surface area and thus decreasing pad to rotor contact. A good brake pad will perform very well with a blank rotor.

    Save your self the aggrevation of buying cheap parts. Buy replacement OEM rotors or equal quality blanks and a good set of pads. Hawk isnt bad. EBC also seems good from what I've read. Also, if you havnt bled your brakes since you bought it, I would HIGHLY recommend doing so.
     
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