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*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by mShu7, May 12, 2008.

  1. Jun 3, 2011 at 10:50 AM
    #681
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Custom XM Install, Window Tint, Intermittant Wiper Install, AVS Bug Deflector, Bed Mat, TRS FX-R retrofits, CIBIE fog and spot lamps, PIAA 510 lamps, Acess LE cover, Weathertech Digital floorr mats, LED interior lighting, Pioneer AVH-2300BT HU, Boston Acoustics speakers, JL Audio Amp, shorty antenna, leather wrap steering wheel cover, Viper security system.
    If anyone wanted to try a boutique wax with some other goodies thrown in this is not too bad a deal.
     
  2. Jun 4, 2011 at 8:24 PM
    #682
    bowhunter11199

    bowhunter11199 Well-Known Member

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    hey so i have a question:

    im going to spend all day tommorow preping my truck to sell it. normally i wash it real good then use turtle hard wax then i use NU finsih polish over the wax.


    is this neccessary? should i just use the wax or use both or just use the NU finish polish?


    and time doesnt matter to me. i cleared the whole day to clean/detail my truck
     
  3. Jun 4, 2011 at 8:58 PM
    #683
    bowhunter11199

    bowhunter11199 Well-Known Member

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    bump for post above
     
  4. Jun 5, 2011 at 7:19 AM
    #684
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Custom XM Install, Window Tint, Intermittant Wiper Install, AVS Bug Deflector, Bed Mat, TRS FX-R retrofits, CIBIE fog and spot lamps, PIAA 510 lamps, Acess LE cover, Weathertech Digital floorr mats, LED interior lighting, Pioneer AVH-2300BT HU, Boston Acoustics speakers, JL Audio Amp, shorty antenna, leather wrap steering wheel cover, Viper security system.
    I would just do the initial wax and call it a day. Be sure to really do a good job cleaning the interior.
     
  5. Jun 5, 2011 at 12:55 PM
    #685
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    At first I thought you were talking about a drive thru car wash.

    If you are talking about one of those quarter washes, that usualy take 6 to 8 quarters, then yes when i am on the road I have used tem with my own bucket and soap. Usually works out ok. It is not a good idea to do this if there is a line to use the wash. The guy behind you can get mad due to the length of time you are in the wash bay.
     
  6. Jun 10, 2011 at 4:11 AM
    #686
    64Wildcat

    64Wildcat Black Jeep of the family

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    Denis
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    Question on backing plates and pads.
    I have a Porter Cable D A coming on Monday and was looking for a recommendationn on backing plates, pads for polishing, waxing and buffing.
    There's so many out there i figured i'd ask my fellow Tacoma owners opinions.
    I have a BSP by the way.

    thanks Denis
     
  7. Jun 10, 2011 at 4:30 AM
    #687
    05 TRD Sport

    05 TRD Sport She's Fat, I'm Drunk, It's On.

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    So I gave a friend of a friend a ride home the other night and now I have roofing tar on the (cheesy) cloth arm rest on the door. The guy is a roofer. Anyway, I know cleaning roof tar can make a bigger mess than the little black spot that it is now. Any ideas on getting it clean without opening the can of worms? Just leave it? :D Cover it with leather? :D
     
  8. Jun 10, 2011 at 4:41 AM
    #688
    WNYTACOMA

    WNYTACOMA Well-Known Member

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    Toyota Nerf steps Bugflector 2 Tool box Weathertech floor liners Wet Okole F/R - Bk/Char
    Won't help this time, but keep a bed sheet or two stached in your truck under the seat for just such an emergency.
     
  9. Jun 10, 2011 at 4:44 AM
    #689
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    try http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21500

    or http://www.meguiarsonline.com/

    You should find some help on one of the links.
     
  10. Jun 24, 2011 at 12:42 AM
    #690
    Spitfire12

    Spitfire12 Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I been reading that, I want make sure i doing right. Always first claybar kit, polish then wax. that right? Mircofiber remove polish and wax. Also I use Trutle polish, but i begin like meguiars, it good brand.
     
  11. Jun 24, 2011 at 5:13 AM
    #691
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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    Usually in Central Jersey
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    Mods are currently being changed .....
    Correct.

    Wash
    Clay
    (rewash, or quick detailer wipedown to remove clay residue)
    Compound/Polish
    Glaze
    Wax/Sealant
     
  12. Jun 25, 2011 at 7:43 AM
    #692
    GeoTaco1

    GeoTaco1 Well-Known Member

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    NEW Toyo TIRES Bed Cage to hold 120 LBS of sand and fishing rod holder, window air deflectors, Bug Deflector, & finally Avid Light Bar and step rails....
    I have asked my 2 local car washes that do detailing and I asked them what would they recommend for the first ever detailing on a new car, and they said:
    Wash, Hand wax

    When I asked them if they do:
    Wash
    Clay
    Wash
    Polish
    Wax
    they thought I was from another planet???:mad: They said a new truck only needs wax twice a year.

    I drive mine by the ocean, what would be th ebest option wax or sealant?
     
  13. Jun 30, 2011 at 4:00 PM
    #693
    coffeesnob

    coffeesnob Well-Known Member

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    I have some of that turtle was 3 step claybar crap. I used just the cleaner on most of my wifes honda then washed it and waxed it and it really really looks good.
     
  14. Jun 30, 2011 at 4:14 PM
    #694
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Without breaking the bank I would use:
    Megs 21 sealant.

    Top with Megs #26 Hi-Tech paste wax.

    Read the reviews, both are fine products.

    You can use the sealant on your wheels once you have cleaned them and future cleanings will be easier.
     
  15. Jul 2, 2011 at 9:21 AM
    #695
    GeoTaco1

    GeoTaco1 Well-Known Member

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    NEW Toyo TIRES Bed Cage to hold 120 LBS of sand and fishing rod holder, window air deflectors, Bug Deflector, & finally Avid Light Bar and step rails....
    I just sprayed painted using rustuleum primer and paint gloss black my avid off road step rails and light bar.

    How should I protect the fininsh now? Is it too early to clay it, polish it and wax it? I wonder what is the best product to use as people will be stepping on it.

    I thought the painting was completed, but I just realized that the rustuleum became soft in the resting area, so I had to sand the area and I have to do another coat! I thought it would be dry after 24 hours? I even used the industrial type??

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Jul 2, 2011 at 2:04 PM
    #696
    tacomakid96

    tacomakid96 Lions Not Sheep

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    If this question had been asked before I apologize,

    I just ordered new ultra badlands polished aluminum wheels for my truck. My question for you detailing guys is what is the best cleaner to use that won't dull my wheels? Also how do I protect them in the winter with all the salt and grime on the road?
     
  17. Jul 2, 2011 at 2:10 PM
    #697
    gatlin69

    gatlin69 Retired?

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    Nerf bars, bug shield,skid plate, coming soon (hopefully) DVD NAV
    I asked this question in another thread and wanted another opinion. What is the best way to clean and protect...but mostly clean a light brown convertible top. It is canvas.
     
  18. Jul 5, 2011 at 8:32 AM
    #698
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Sorry if this has been asked in the last 35 pages (I read the first page but not the subsequent questions people have asked) :eek:.

    Do you claybar that textured rocker panel or just leave it? How about painted plastics like fender flares, grille guards, front bumper cover, etc?
     
  19. Jul 7, 2011 at 10:12 AM
    #699
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    That paint requires about a week to fully cure. I wouldn't touch it until then. You should be able to handle it after a day or so, but be really careful. Spots of thick paint will still be soft. On my rattle can jobs, I usually pick up a can of clear-coat and spray a few coats over top to protect the paint.

    Don't try to buff it, don't try to polish it...you'll take the paint off almost immediately. Wax if you like, but it won't really do anything. Couple thick coats of clear-coat will really protect it... I forget which OTC paint I used but you can find it in any hardware store... I think it was Krylon "Clear" or something, white can. Don't spray it in ANY humid conditions.

    Once you have the clearcoat on and its been awhile, you should be able to treat it like normal paint. Polishing takes layers off the clearcoat, just the same on your vehicle. If you didn't have clearcoat, you would be taking off paint, everytime until you ran out at least :)
     
  20. Jul 7, 2011 at 10:23 AM
    #700
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Almost all aluminum wheels have a clear-coat on them. Treat them just like your car paint. Keep it clean. In the winter-time, keep it clean..... the salt and grime will eat at the clearcoat. Best advice I can give.
     

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