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Tacoma running lean with TRD cold air intake fix

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ottomastiff, Jul 2, 2011.

  1. Jul 2, 2011 at 2:22 PM
    #1
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
  2. Jul 2, 2011 at 2:25 PM
    #2
    G scott04

    G scott04 ...

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    Excellent information!
     
  3. Jul 4, 2011 at 2:27 PM
    #3
    Erad

    Erad Member

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    Question: Does this modification only apply if you have the s/c, or is this for N/A engines as well?
     
  4. Jul 4, 2011 at 6:05 PM
    #4
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    To my knowledge it applies mainly for the Cold air intake. but its always good to look at the whole picture.
     
  5. Jul 6, 2011 at 11:39 AM
    #5
    Erad

    Erad Member

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    Hey Otto,

    After cutting part of the tube out have you gotten a lean code yet? Or has it been stable so far? I've been wanting to get the trd cai but with problems of it running lean, been hesitating getting the cai.
     
  6. Jul 6, 2011 at 4:49 PM
    #6
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    Its running fantastic. I've put it through the paces as well over the 4th. Everything is great.

    I don't know if you'll need a reflash if you put in just a cai. but it is working great for me now.

    Good luck!
     
  7. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:24 PM
    #7
    Hepdawg69

    Hepdawg69 Member

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    Awesome info!! Like others said been hesitant on getting the TRD CAI because of the lean issues. This helps me want to get it now, my s/c I know wants it ; )
     
  8. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #8
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident Truck/SUV racer

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    Interesting.....
     
  9. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:37 PM
    #9
    Grande

    Grande Well-Known Member

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    yea but hes got a super charger, he probly had to get bigger fuel injectors, which dumps more gas, more gas means u need more air, so if the thing was blocking whatever he was explaining, it would caused it to be more lean, Air and Gas ratios is very important as how u tune them, lean is more gas than air, rich is more air than gas, u need to have a certain amount of both to hav the best combustion possible.


    but i dont get why a N/A would be lean with a Intake.

    i maybe be wrong tho
     
  10. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:39 PM
    #10
    Lucario Runner

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    Lean means to much air, Rich means to much fuel. Both N/A and F/I need to have a good A/F ratio in order to have the most performance.
     
  11. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:56 PM
    #11
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    I did mention my build. there are bigger points that come with the super charger as lucaro mentioned. The plastic piece was starving the engine of air.
    After cutting it off and letting the cai do its thing. everything came out peachy.
     
  12. Jul 6, 2011 at 6:58 PM
    #12
    Lucario Runner

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    Do you have a way to monitor your afr's? I'd be interested to see how it differentiates from the 1st gen TRD.
     
  13. Jul 7, 2011 at 10:58 AM
    #13
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    I dont have a way to monitor my afr, atm
     
  14. Jul 7, 2011 at 2:19 PM
    #14
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Rather than cut off that much plastic, Wouldnt it be better to drill the plastic out thats blocking the openings? That way youre not loosing as much material that might be used to securley attach the peices together.
     
  15. Jul 7, 2011 at 3:12 PM
    #15
    Lucario Runner

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    Some people will buy it at the dealer without knowing much if anything about it. If they then find TW at least there are a couple of fixes for it.
     
  16. Jul 7, 2011 at 5:17 PM
    #16
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    It was just done as toyota intended, there is a groove that runs the circumference of the tube to cut.

    It doesn't of course mean that drilling holes isn't a bad idea, but it is a little more work as you need to take the time to align it and bore it out to the right size. The other thing is i would not know how much shift there would be through out time. Holes = exact position.

    Cut off lets things shift with no diminishing flow.

    Just some thoughts.
     
    REDdawn6 likes this.
  17. Jul 7, 2011 at 5:18 PM
    #17
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    Oh and woot! my first sticky haha
     
  18. Jul 7, 2011 at 5:28 PM
    #18
    ottomastiff

    ottomastiff [OP] Active Member

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    TRD cai,s/c,catback, running boards. just a sub and a amp so far.
    I have the piece that was cut off, it does not reach over to the other side of end of the connecting end, which means it adds no value to being held securely.

    The tube in question sits snug in the connecting rubber piece, but is not a major factor in securing things together.

    The fasteners are on the ends of the connecting rubber tube with a little lip to keep it secure. So the part cut off again adds no value to it being secure.

    Sorry if this isn't very clear. I can post some pics later and clarify.
     
  19. Oct 11, 2011 at 10:16 AM
    #19
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter on idiot patrol ;)

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    Awesome fix. I wanted to dump my K&N (which sucks in air on average 20F hotter than ambient air) for a TRD that sucks the air from the wheel well as it should. :)
     
  20. Dec 1, 2011 at 11:18 AM
    #20
    Vassily28

    Vassily28 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry but you say that removing this piece is not starving the engine in air anymore. You've done that cause it was lean. So doing that you let enter more air that is not measure by the MAF sensor and you think the mixture is richer! Sorry but you have lean the mixture.

    I can't comment precisely on the SC V6 cause i don't what are the change done on closed and opened loop by the reflash of the ECU.

    But for the NA engine, in closed loop, the motor can't go lean. It's still possible in open loop (WOT) in case you have changed the aspiration system and then the shape of the funnel where is install the MAF sensor is so different than the STOCK OEM it affect the way the ECU's calculating the amount of air. And it's not the case with the TRD CAI.

    To change the AFR on a NA engine you'll need to install a MAF calibrator to change the AFR ratio in opened loop and only in opened loop. In closed loop it will change nothing cause ECU is working against you to keep AFR close to 14.7.

    If you wanna change the AFR in closed loop you'll need a much more expensive electronic device like MAP ECU or APR x1.
     

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