Snorkel Installation: 2nd Gen SS135MOD & 1st Gen SS170HF

rear diff breather mod is in the works for next week for me as well. i was wondering what else i could do on a limited budget that would water proof other components that would otherwise be subject to failure if subjected to submersion.

 

i crossed about 3 or 4 feet of water a couple nights ago i actually went around a police baricade and forged that amount of moving water for over a 100 yards.

the cops face was priceless his mouth was hanging open then his partner came over and yelled that was fucking awesome lol they wanted to know all about the truck.

 

Haha fuck yea!

Let's see pics of your truck man.

 

It's my thinking and this is just opinion and thought that as long as you maintain a forward wake at the front of the truck you could go up to the hood as is. Issue is as that wake comes around the sides it will hit the doors and start coming in. So I would say you have to figure out a way to seal the doors (or make your interior indoor/outdoor), all diff breathers and transmission breathers extended, then find some waterproof wheel bearings (I don't think they exist) and throw your fusebox / battery into water proof boxes.

So once you get this done and try it out let us know how it works!

 

Ha, I honestly don't think I will ford any water that deep...maybe never... but when I have more time, I do plan on doing more water proofing.

Cuz when the time comes when I do have to use it, I want to be ready. I don't think I would ever ford water (intentionally) deep enough to use the snorkel, but it would put my mind at ease knowing that if I ever need to, I can.

 

Youll need a new diesel engine to cross any high water.

That said, rip your carpet out and go crazy with a caulk gun filling in holes and gaps.

Grab some dielectric grease and some marine dry bags for all your wire harnesses inside the cab.

Dielectric grease all you engine harnesses and throw some dry bags over them.

Extend ALL the breathers not just the rear.

Tape your doors shut.

Extend the exhaust out the bed.

Carry a spare alternator, starter, and pulleys - cause they will all fail.

Pray

You better get that rear breather on ASAP. Those damn floods screwed me good. Took me 3hrs to drive 19 miles.



On another note - anyone with a snorkel needs to drive slow through water. If your going to do 30mph through puddles the spray will go directly into the snorkel and also fill up your engine bay with shit.

 

Well it's a good thing I don't intentionally plan on fording any deep water any time in the next 40 years...buuuut I'll keep all that info in mind. When I start getting ready for the end of the world...

 

OK so I wrapped the pipe today. Initial test drive actually showed an increase in the intake temp and a variance to the exterior temp by almost 20 degrees. However I think these results might be loaded so I will continue to monitor. I had my compass/temp module go out today and had to do the 510 chip solder fix to get it working again. So it may not be completed averaged yet on the temp. Also the pipe was warm as I wrapped it so that may have held heat in. So we will see after a full cold start and run later this week.

 

I had done a little thought exercise on this after I plumbed a Volant Airram into my stock airbox. What you need is something that reflects heat to keep the engine bay temps out of the intake air. Isn't exhaust wrap supposed to keep the heat IN the pipe? E.g., wrapping exhaust pipes insulates it such that the heat stays in the pipe. I think you need something more like a heat reflective wrap. Even then, I'm not sure how the wrap will react once the bay warms up, if it to will just add more material to keep the pipe heated, once it is hot.

 

so three breathers in total huh. i can imagine with out crawling under there the diff is probably going to be the easiest one to do but the t case thats got to be a pain in the ass to extend. lol what do i need to buy besides tubing and clamps can i get spare breather caps like the ones used buy toyota or would i be re using the same one's?

 

lol you are a compendium of useful info psu thanks if boyd is going to give you an hand with the snorkel shoot me a pm i'd love to stop by and see the truck in person looks cool.

i'm interested in the ato skids you got there they look beefy as shit!

 

lol while your doing your snorkel i could do my breathers plus now having done a snorkel and helped with another i think i could be of service

 

I agree with your thought process but if it is designed to keep heat in then in theory it should also keep heat out and the temp of the air in the pipe more consistant to the exterior air temp. The wrap is the same on both sides so it should work equal on either side. That being said once the engine warms up and heat creeps back in the intake from the engine the pipe too might heat up. This morning went for a short drive but enough to get the engine warm. Averaged about 6 degrees warmer in the pipe than outside. That is a gain of 50% based on my previous reading of 12 degrees warmer. However when I go for a drive later in the heat we will see. Also anyone know the average error on our overhead temp. gauge? I wonder if that too is contributing to the difference.

This may end up being that it would be good to wrap the pipe in the winter and take it off in the summer. Also might still continue looking into a piece of bent aluminum pipe instead. AL will dissipate the heat the best and I can get it polished inside to smooth out the air.

 

cool your putting an fj t-case in your taco! what is the purpose of this i'm thinking probably many right? i never liked the electric selector switch for any 4x4 system i like sticks to manually engage so that would be a plus but, are the gears more robust or is the gearing lower what other advantage could this bring along?

sounds cool though your truck does not have much left in the way of oem parts lrgrnr i think its time for an h1 hummer lol.

 

or buy a 4cyl

 

wow thats pretty cool the fj t-case is stronger and is manual actuation as opposed to our which is electric huh. not sure i need something like this yet but, its def cool as shit i was thinking about norths build when i was looking at that thread and sure enough he chimed in.

i guess it makes it easy enough that ato can sell you everything you need to make it a plug and play of sorts. whats the add a switch for though i guess i missed that part? i don't have lockers in my 4cyl yet so is the fj t-case a locked box and thats what the switch is for if so thats would kill two birds with one stone for me.

 

i thought you had them sitting in your shed lol i thought that was you
i got the allpoo high clearance one now and thought it was comparable to the others out there but, alas its not the ato ones are waaay thicker and stronger and seeing as i need something for my plastic gas tank now it looks as if i will be going to them anyhow

 

All this intake heat talk is very humorous. I just hope everyone who is worried about their intake temps realizes that most major aftermarket intake manufacturers utilize uncovered metal for their intakes as well as ALL supercharger manufacturers. I think this is getting a little blown out of proportion IMO.

 

Ha! That would cost more than my truck!!

 

You were the only one with it wrapped I believe prior to mine yesterday. Well at least on this thread. I think it will be interesting to see the temp results after a week or so. My suspicions are that the wrap will retain too much heat and take longer to cool down. So I will most likely be removing the wrap but it is worth testing since I have the device. I already have another use for the wrap on the exhaust that goes around my T Case now. It is somewhat close to the actuator so I figured I would wrap it so it doesn't overheat the actuator.

To your point would be my reason to source a piece of Aluminum pipe for here. It should keep everything the coolest. But it could be getting blown out of proportion.