O2 sensor replaced and now truck runs bad

Don't feel bad about the Bosh. Several years ago I went to one of the big parts houses for my Accord and let them put their scanner on it for my check engine light. $110 for an 02 sensor and my check engine light was back on withing 15 seconds of installing it. Been riding like that for several years now.

I think after I get finished spending on this Tacoma I will finally tackle the Accord 02 sensor.

 

Whatever you do, DO NOT fall for the old "universal O2 sensor" trick!!

On second thought, maybe you should. Then I can follow your trials and tribulations on "Accord World".

 

LOL! Actually I am a member of one of those, but theres not much activity there cause not many dudes puttin lift kits Accords!

 

LOL...good one. Maybe you should consider a lift kit. Maybe put some sliders on it or at least some all terrain tires.

So I finally got the DENSO sensor and I must say, the truck runs like a champ again. Drove about 30 miles and the CEL came on again. FUCK! Took it to AutoZone and the said it was "bank 1, sensor 1". Told the dude that I had just replaced the O2 sensor and he said perhaps it had stored the code as "pending" so we reset it. Drove another 30 miles and it's back on again. DAMN

I have no idea what it could be. Truck runs great so I might just train my eyes to ignore the light or buy an OBD II scanner and mount it to my dash to reset it each time it goes off. I think I'm officially running out of options.

Anyone have any other directions I should go in? I have to trust that the code it is throwing is accurate but geeez.....give me a break. What else could possibly be wrong? I was fully expecting the code to be something like "bank 2 sensor 2" but it wasn't. GRRRRR!

 

It was on Friday when it threw it. I had it cleared and it came back yesterday. I'm assuming it is although I haven't had it checked yet. It's strange too, because I was caught in a traffic jam on Sat for about an hour idling, creeping along, idling, creeping and it was 100 degrees out. No light during all of that, I was really proud of the TuRD. Then on my way to the shooting range yesterday, it came on. Open highway, 70 MPH. But it runs great. This thing will burn the tires from a dead stop without powerbraking.

So I suppose I could be jumping the gun by assuming that it's a P0135 code. But I really think it will be. I'm starting to get embarassed taking it back to read/reset the code. I was out of town on Friday so that's why I went to AutoZone. Might need to start taking it to O'reilly's just because they don't know me yet

Any idea how much a scanner costs? Someone told me that Harbor Freight sells them pretty cheap.

BTW...I'm pretty sure your advice for the DENSO was spot on. It really did make the truck run tons better than any BOSCH ever did.

 

Well we did learn something for sure- a Bosh sensor will make it run like crap! I never would have imagined that.

You can get scanners pretty cheap. I bought a Chinese model on ebay for 30 bucks and it has worked fine on all my vehicles so far. Im sure you can get them cheaper or fancier.

Until you get it scanned, at least it's running good!

 

Bought both o2 sensors on my 2004 4 cyl from rock auto with denzo. Never any problems.

 

I'll have to pick one up soon if this keeps happening. Most people have GPS's on their dash. I'll have an OBD II scanner.

The Denso sensor I bought did do wonders and it is running great. So until I get the scanner, I'm just going to ignore the light.

 

LMAO!!!

As for the light, small piece of electrical tape on the dash. Covers it right up!!! JK!

 

Hey guys! I'm back.......sorry, between girlfriends, babies and wives, I tend to get busy with very short notice! JK about the wife......

Any, I'm still dealing with the 135 code. I quit driving the truck for a while due to a squeal in the front right wheel, turns out it was the backer plate so all is well now.

So anyway, this 135 code is driving me nuts! Yesterday I thought to myself, maybe the cat is clogged due to excessive oil burning from the previous engine. So I removed it to hollow it out but as it turns out, a previous owner beat me to it so that saved me a considerable amount of effort and mess clean up.

I'm wondering now if perhaps since the cat is hollow is there a chance the 2 O2 sensors aren't communicating properly and maybe need to have one of those O2 simulators installed on the downstream side? Would there be any benefit to that?

Anyone have any experience with these? You know what I'm talking about don't you? I might not be using the correct term but it's a fake sensor that gives a skewed signal to the ECM or something to "fool" the truck into thinking there is a cat converter on it.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys.

OH...BTW....you CAN rebuild those door checks. I know.....I did it. And it works perfectly!

 

I have an obd-2 scanner that works through my android evo 4g that I have on my dash. It can read and clear codes and stuff.

 

Hey man! Havent heard from you in a while. Thought you were off putting a lift kit on that thing! LOL

Yes they do have 02 simulators-I have read about them on this forum. I'm sure someone will chime in with details on which one is best.

Try to backtrack what's causing it-as mentioned, MAF, exhaust leak, vacuum leak, etc.

 

Ooooof.......I'm not so good at reading diagrams like that. I'm kind of old school but I will follow the guidelines that it spells out and search for the obvious. And thanks for the link 98Taco!

I do know my charcoal canister has a broken port (F) and will be taking tomorrow off work to hit the salvage yards in search of a new one. I could use an actual photo of the canister and vaccum lines because the diagram in my manual is at an angle and doesn't tell me where things actually hook up (i.e. the vent tube from my tank, it's currently plugged with a bolt and I don't know where it goes). I can't rule it out as a potential issue for throwing this P0135 code (although you'd think the OBD II scanner would be smart enough to lead you in a better direction if that were the case). I also smell raw fuel when I stop so I know something isn't working as it should.

Bicklebock,
I did some research on O2 sims and it clearly states that they won't fit a Tacoma but I was thinking that I might try it anyway since my Denso sensor that I bought actually unscrews from the flange. I PM'd Chris4x4 and he gave some pretty sound advice to replace my cat converter and stick with OEM. I suppose you can't argue that but I was wanting to keep costs down and keep the tire burnin performance that I have now. Dang little truck is a bullet and is gonna get me in more trouble than my Hemi. I was even thinking about asking the salvage yard if they'd sell me an old cat to try and maybe buy it at recycle rate. We'll see.

Don't think I haven't thought about a lift kit!! It just isn't practical though. I did manage to aquire some alloy wheels for it to the tune of 50.00 for a set of 4. Well 3 and 1 bent one. Still not too bad, just need to find some good rubber for it now.

I'll be hitting the yard with a list of items to get for it.
Skid plates
Charcoal canister
Left inner front fender flap
Maybe a few other odds and ends that catch my eye

Stay tuned fellas, I'll report back when I get some results

 

It's under the hood on the drivers side. That dang port F is snapped off and the vent tube leading back to the fuel tank is plugged with a bolt. The diameter of the hose that is plugged doesn't appear to be the same as the one that is snapped off.

On another note, my 4x4 wouldn't engage so I deciphered my vac diagram well enough to figure out some of the routing and then the 4x4 started working.

I'm sure the smell of raw fuel is coming from the canister not having all the lines hooked up but the only one that I can find that isn't hooked up is port F and the vent tube leading back to the tank but I'm not sure that they are related. Thus the need for a true photo showing as much detail as possible.

 

Shit fire and save matches!!!

I just priced a new canister on Rockauto and it was 279.00. I damn near shat and fell back in it.

Hope the salvage yard doesn't charge that much. I was figuring 20-30 bucks for a used one.

Might have to get creative with some mighty putty.

 

I had bosh plugs in mine and it blew out the number one. The threads that where there was like a smooth. Take the head offs and off to a machine shop it went. All the threads in mine where toast.