Can K&N Filters allow for more dirt ingestion?

Oops, all this talk about oil got me confused.

Yeah, so.... does anyone want a slightly used K&N air filter? You'll see immediate horsepower boosts, 5-10 mpg increases, slicker hair and more "Yes" from the ladies.

Holla at me.

 

If you're passing on the fat chicks, you really ought to take one for a test ride sometime. They can be very, VERY grateful.

Just a piece of advice.

 

I'm not smart enough to know, that's why I use OEM air and OEM oil filters. I figure if Toyota can engineer a car that can last a million miles I'm sure some of that engineering starts with making air/oil filters.

 

None of us are experts and are just passing on our experiences... as did Chris above.

As well as what we learn following links to informative sites like that BITOG link above.

 

Where is it you're finding dirt? In the intake just past the air filter?

 

Check around many tests have been done one of the more interesting ones shows the results for HP, torque and mileage to be the same with a stock filter as having no air filter at all installed so much for the restriction theory. It only makes sense the surface area is far greater then the intake will ever pull air through. Oiled air filters have a tendency to trash MAF sensors and do not do as good a filtering job it’s all out there judge for your self. I personally do not wish to turn my engine into a shop vac I’ll stick with the best filter I can buy, stock Toyota.

 

^ Agreed. User error. If you oil it properly you will not harm your Mass Air sensor. I've used K&N oiled filters on much higher end cars with much more sophisticated and finicky electronics than an 8-year Toyota Tacoma. These were all my cars previously on my IS300, my WRX STi, my wife's Audi A4, my Yamaha R1 and R6 and I have NEVER not even once thrown a CEL, or ruined a sensor using an oiled filter.

 

Just stumbled on this thread... Sub'd.

I've been running a K&N since I bought my truck back in '01.
With about 178k miles on the clock, I pulled my throttle body about a month ago.
Here's what I found:

 

I love threads like this, because 9 times outta 10 everybody just keeps posting things they've heard other people in other posts write. How many of us have done actual scientific testing using the different filters? I know BITOG is the goto site for all things filtration, but again, he is just one guy, whose to say he didn't make mistakes in his testing procedures. There'll never be an end to this because theres always going to be people asking "should I get --- filter?" and will always get the standard "you should get this because it's what I use" answer.

 

This is the exact reason I came to this thread. I am no expert by any means, nor do I have the testing equipment to showcase or prove what I say. When I hear common misconceptions, myths, or hype because one person either because of user error or one testimonial that a product doesn't work and they don't understand basic functions and operations of a naturally aspirated engine, I'm sorry but I will not sit back and watch misinformation be spread.

 

I agree the oil could be condensed from oil vapor backing up from the PCV. But that's not all I'm seeing... by the lack of sheen it appears a fine dust is embedded in the oil streaks.

If so, dust a filter should not have let by perhaps? Is this the first time you've had the TB off or cleaned?

The times I've had a TB apart... admittedly with a lot fewer than 178K... the oil film was tacky and had a sheen. It was obviously only cooked on oil, with no or discernable dust in it. And that vehicle did a lot of desert cruising!

 

Yep. I had no idea I could do such a thing until I came here.

Thanks TW

 

just get an AEM dry filter. Very popular amongst us supra guys. Cheap and work great

 

So? you think that that really matters?? still a decant air filter for the price..

 

When choosing an air filter it all comes down to what you will be using your truck for and your personal driving styles.


If you want great protection (filtration) capabilities than stick with OEM Toyota or an equivalent paper filter.



If you want maximum airflow (efficiency-performance) than go with a TRD, AFE, or K&N.



Basically you can't get a K&N and then complain about having dirt behind your filter because they aren't made for best filtration properties. They're designed for maximum airflow.

 

For those who have missed my decision, I ordered the stock filter housing. It came on the Big Brown Truck of Goodness today. I haven't installed it yet, but according to the oil sample analysis I just did, the silica levels in my oil have decreased just because I have the stock filter housing sitting in the passenger seat.

The silica is skeered.

Thanks to all for the informative discussion.