Florida B.S. Thread

I'd do the Deavers or AP's Expo leaf pack (mainly because they aren't responsible for the construction of those)

I really want to save up for a set of TC Lift Spindles and Deaver Leaf springs. But I'm really leaning towards working on the sound system next.

 

I just want it to be super flexy and soft, I never haul anything so expos would be useless and they dont provide lift unless under load. Without load they only provide like an inch of lift.

 

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You still getting custom bumpers made?

 

Yeah just time and money lol. I am going to need tires, then a lift. If I can jockey my payments down I would be golden. I am shopping around for new insurance too. If that ato hybrid comes into play I will just buy it. I like ato's shit. And 4xinovations has the cheapest sliders I have found.

 

Is there a transmission brace out there for our trucks? I am sick of my damn stick shifter going crazy over sugar sand.

 

Theres a short throw shifter ???

 

I'm talking about something to brace it. Or does the transmission need to have some play?

 

i personally have never seen one suppose to...

and damn i have insomna or how ever you spell it. i have not slept in the last 2 days. work is gunna suck.

 

I hear ya I hope I can sleep good today.

But on the tranny issue when I hit sugar sand and I start to get stuck the stick just starts shaking everywere... Idk why... but when you watch a video of a truck running you can see the axle moves, the drive line shifts, the transfer case moves and tranny so I wonder if I can make it more solid with some bracing... colin should chime in with a good idea.

 

you'll still be plenty flexy even with a heavier duty pack. even without a sway bar, our front ends are substantially stiffer than the rears, which causes the rear to reach full flex far before the front. most of the time when you lift your first tire when areticulating, the front isn't even completely compressed.
i can only get the front to full compress when i'm fexing down a hill where all of the weight is on the front end. so for flexing on flatter terrain, a stiffer rear may actually help in some cases because you will still get full flex in the rear, but it will transfer more of the force to the front, making it work to it's fullest as well.
when i redo my rear, i'm using a stiffer spring and heavier valed shock.

you won't find anything cheaper than 4xinnovations. i doubt a shop could make them cheaper. i might reccomend a shop install them however. they're kind of a pain.

the motor/tranny/transfer case all have some play from the rubber mounts they use. the play your getting though is probably frame flex. our trucks have very flexible frames, which is both good and bad compared to a boxed frame. what you're experiencing is one of the downfalls. i can only think of 2 options.......
the more expensive and involved option is to stiffen up the frame. that's going to be a lot of fabricating and fairly time consuming. the other option (less effective) is to swap out the natural rubber bushings for polyurethane. stiffer than polly is a material called delrin. this would help a little, but the downfall is that for normal driving, the engine will transfer a decent ammount of vibration to the frame, which then goes through the body, and to you.

 

that's really awesome.... I've see the underwater led lights, but they are nowhere near as bright as the hid's and the light is a lot more spread out... I should some lights on my jon boat...

 

well....hull lights were originally designed to attract squid to fishing boats, so it wouldn't be completely out of place. unfortunately 2 lights probably cost as much as a jon boat

 

I really don't think what he is describing is frame flex. My tuck does the same thing and I think a lot of it is wheel hop/axle wrap, and when the axle bounces it loads and unloads tension on the drive line which causes the shifter to shake back and forth... I would bet that if you were to put a heavier duty set of springs in the rear or maybe traction bars, it would get rid of most of it.

 

yeah, I also think that they are supposed to attract bait fish for inshore fishing. Maybe I'll rig something something up to mess with sometime...

 

axle wrap shouldn't affect the motion of the transfer case and transmission. forces between the drive shaft are essentially limmited to torsional and vibrational. it is not possible to apply a moment to the t-case because the ujoints will articulate. it is also not possible to push the t-cas forward and back because of the slip yoke in the drive shaft.

 

i think a lot of people just hang flood lights over the water. i ammagine that would be terrible with the ammount of insects you'd attract though

 

I don't have any forward and rear motion in the shifter only side to side. My dad has an 03 Cobra (they are know to have bad wheel hop) and it causes the exact same symptoms, when you spin the tires and they hop. Maybe in august if you have your go pro we could record a video of it happening.

 

yeah, i'll have it with me, we'll figure out a good way to mount it under there and take a look.

the side to side is probably the transmission rotating around the mount (torque). because the mount is on the bottom, and your shifter is so far above that, rotation can come off as a side to side shift. if that's the case, a poly bushing would stiffen it up a bit, decreasing that motion.

mike-i wouldn't recomend a bracket for something like this beause unless everything is on a solid mount, you'll just keep shearing bolts when the motov tries to twist and the transmission can't, or vise versa.

 

yeah cause Idk what it is but one I start to get stuck in sugar sand or hid washboard roads my stick and axle start to rattle and it sucks ass.

 

wheel hop when getting stuck and washboard all cause the driveline to load and unload with every bump. kind of like if an impact gun worked in slow motion.

picture hitting something with a hammer vs just pushing on it with a hammer. though your arm is just as strong either way, the hit will get you a much better result when driving a nail.
the push is normal driving, where the force is slowly applied starting at zero and increasing at a constant rate. the hit with a hammer is like the washboards. it also starts at zero, but the hit creates an impulse force, much larger than the gradual force. it's a little more complicated than this, but this essentially happens because you are now factoring in the weight of the moving parts of the driveline, not just the force the motor creats from combustion of the gasoline. those extra "hits" from unleading and loading the drivetrain are what cause more motion of the shifter in those scenarios vs regular driving.