"2002" dc sas build. (Matic)

sorry for jacking matic's thread, but if your goin tons expect to lose clearance with anything tires less than 40's

 

i personally am in between tons and what i have.

what i have has no clearance issues
havent broke anything, but havent really had time to wheel with school
is easyish to find parts
easy to rebuild

the things against tons
initial price
clearance
gearing
and the fact that i have over 2k tied up in my gears and axles already, thats just parts, i did the labor

 

One of the better most informative write ups I have seen lately.
Still considering my options, aint got nothin but time.

http://www1.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=504902

 

I was going to do the same thing but not the rear. But after a lot of thinking i decided to wait and do it right linked with 14" coilovers and a Diamond or ruff stuff axle. And it's not really in my budget right now so I'm putting it off for are few years.

I don't think you will need the rear axle it would be really hard to snap a axle shaft with the 2.7 and 35's unless you were running duel cases and really high gears. I would really look into your options before you pull the trigger and add about 1/3 to your budget because your going to need it.

 

I plan on going with 40s Similar to FAUX X 4 setup on pirate.

 

I agree the rear will hold up fine but it's a really good price on the rock assault housing. Maybe I could just add trusses.

 

Yeah I thought about that too I bought some diff armor to protect the ring gear and I'm fabing up a skid for the 3rd I think that's enough.

 

How you liking that 211? Aint had time to play with mine much but maybe i'll get a chance soon.

 

I love it I was burning some 3/8th plate steel yesterday and it was running some nice beads.

 

I read every word on your post, I didn't skip the fact that you're 2wd. I just forgot that 2wd is retarded, haha.

You want a rock assault rear, yet you will be running 35's which people do all the time with the stock rear on 35's, and even people with 37+. They still don't have any issues. The rear is strong as shit that's why most people end up leaving it in there.

As for your budget, how much we talking, because IMO you're wasting money on the rear end when you can be building the front, which is by far way more important.

And if you go with trailgear's design, are you choosing the ARB air locker package? Because I hope so

 

Since you asked... 5" springs are not needed for 35's, unless you just want the truck to be really, really tall. See link for details...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/solid-axle-suspension/138953-sas-done-d.html

Not bagging the guy at all, just saying you dont NEED 5" springs to clear 35's, some people like there trucks tall, some don't, if you do that's cool, and the 5" springs will definitely do that. Just giving you some more info in case you were'nt aware of how tall 5" springs will make your truck.

A lot of people get misconstrued information/ideas/thoughts about the actual amount of height gain when going to a solid axle and running an off the shelf kit. A 3" toytec/OME/bolt in coilover lift will give you pretty close to an actual 3", however buying a trail gear (or who ever) solid axle "kit" with 3" springs will give you quite a bit more "actual lift" over where the truck sits at stock height.

 

I don't find that very tall. As a matter of fact, that looks about right. Maybe some 37's would even it out a bit.

 

Absolutely ARB.
My budget is $10k and that was to include a dd as well. Possibly an older strait axle toyota or later 4 runner.
Now things are up in the air a bit and I am leaning towards 25 mpg dd and and older toyota 4x4/4 runner and even possibly a juggy/truggy/buggy of the samurai sort and just leaving my tacoma alone aside from purchasing a snorkel and tiregate for it.

That way I have something good on gas. Still got my powertrax tacoma and an around town/trail rig that I can fiddle with on the weekends.

I certainly am in no hurry to do anything at the moment and certainly open to suggestions. I havn't found myself on the trails lately because I just can't see damaging my prerunner as it's still in very good condition. It was also the first and only new truck I ever bought.
I'm a pretty patient fella and maybe something will fall into my lap. Who knows.

 

I'd stay away from TG but that's just me.....

 

It shows a lot of potential. I was dead set on SAS when I converted mine to 4x4 until I started crunching numbers and came to the conclusion that I did not have another vehicle to fall back on and that knowing me I would do something stupid w/ the SAS... The IFS is very strong and has held up well, it just sucks when it comes to flex...

I will SAS one day and I'm a fan of the yota axles... possible a FJ80 axle that has been flipped or go all out and get a diamond. Instead of dropping money in another rear axle, build the front/stock rear to be as bullet proof as possible.

 

Right on man, get to it then!! Was just giving some input in case you werent aware of how much lift the 5" springs would actually give. Looking forward to seeing this done, I'm in the process of building my 82 Toyota but as soon as its done the Tacoma gets the garage, its also a black double cab and will be getting a solid front axle.

 

Already way ahead of budget.
Just scored an auto tranny/tcase/front driveshaft from a rolled 2.7 litre tacoma access cab for $200. 109.000 miles.

 

Shit. Thats an electronic tcase. I don't think I want that. Gotta find a pre 2000 model for manual tcase. Oh well, still $1200 ahead of budget. Can't beat an A340F tranny with 109.000 miles for $100. WINNING!!

 

wanna donate that no slip locker to a fellow south Carolinain?

 

lol. I need it more than ever now.

If anyone could explain why I keep hearing that I need a manual t-case as apposed to this electronic t-case, that would be great.
I went ahead and purchased both together and the A340F (aisin 30-40LE) and the electronic t-case look brand new.
The vehicle belonged to an older gentleman that somehow managed to roll the truck in a ditch in his driveway while attempting to load a yard tractor.

The response I got from a friend of mine was. " People don't like them because they have a differential in them.
But they do have a center diff lock so I don't see a problem, you can still shift it manually in 4hi and 4lo. The only thing electric is 4 auto"

I think toyota went to electronic t-case somewhere around "2000".
Any help on this would be great.