4.56's who gots em were did you buy them!

As the title states looking to move to 4.56's in my 06 4cycl taco 4x4 standard cab. Just curious were people have bought the aftermarket gears and cost. thanks!

 

what size rear end is this truck?

 

x2


just make sure you get EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!

they forgot to mention i needed a new pinion flange for my 2nd gen and i was out a taco for 2 additional days due to the mishap

 

ok thanks for the help!

 

i have 4.56 used ring and pinion for sale for 50 bucks .....

i gotten mine from eastcoast, randys ring and pinion and ttora.com

 

East coast gears has good deals. I think you can order a full 3rd member and send them yours after you finish the swap.

 

ECGS fucking rocks... Fortunately I live close to them and took my diff up there the other day around 230 and they called me at 5 and said to come and get it... Awesome guys to deal with but I didn't get 4.56s I got 4.88s

 

I'm sure this is a stupid question...but Ive been trying to figure it out all day. Is there a reason someone would rather put in 4.56s in stead of 4.88s? Like, are there pros and cons to both... I've read the bigger you go the better power and mpg you get?...so...if that logic is correct, why would someone go with the 4.56 when they could go with the 4.88. Thanks in advance!

 

u lose more top end with 4.88. I have 4.88 in my Mini and i have NO top end .

 

with a 4cyl and 33in tires 4.88 are a good mix for power economy
with a 6cyl and 33in tires 4.56 are a better mix for power and economy 35in tires will do well with 4.88's

 

x2, 4.88s are really low, 4.56s are better for around town and highway and you will see a good bit of power and mpgs back

 

hey great info, good to know! Thanks. I have a 2009 4x4 access cab 4 banger...i have 32s on now...but added an avid light bar and rock sliders and am going to soon hopefully be adding some under armor for more protection...i think i have 4.10s and im noticing a lot of under-powered performance. Its also my daily driver, so I still do alot of around town and highway driving. So i think my best bet will be the 4.56s. Thanks for the info! Now I get to go do some pricing so I know how much im saving for haha.


EDIT: just read Hard2kills post....since i have a 4 banger...should i get the 4.88s instead?

 

If you still have these questions you need to put the fucking brakes on any regear project right this second.

If you don't understand the relationship between gear ratios and driving characteristics of your vehicle, you need to do a lot more research before you even think about buying.

Gears cost too much to be dicking around - know for damn sure what you want and why before you act.

 

I have the 4.56s and I just had the installer supply them. Cost me like $220 for the rear gears. The place I got it done is rearend specialties in the Bay Area: http://www.rearendspecialties.com/

 

wow dude, you need to chill just a bit...

Clearly im asking questions now, to get info. Let me worry about the money issue

 

I'm not worked up. I think you're misinterpreting.

The reason I'm warning you is because I'm tired of retards coming in this forum, asking two questions about a complex subject, then posting a thread two weeks later crying about how it didn't turn out the way they expected.

I'd prefer you not be one of those people.

If you want good information on gears, asking on here is ill advised. You'd be better off digging through the tech section of TTORA.

 

Oh, thanks! I shall go do that right now! Thanks for the advice And I never buy anything, without researching every little bit of deal first (I just started researching now after someone commenting about getting a regear to fix my power issue.)

 

Here's a gears primer for you then, to get you started:

That number is the ratio of the number of revolutions of one item to the other...in the case of differentials, it's the number of rotations of the driveshaft/pinion to the number of rotations of the ring gear.

This concept has many implications.

First of all, going to a lower gear (higher numbers = lower gear) is going to increase the number of revolutions of the engine for each revolution of the tires. This means you effectively start the vehicle higher in the torque and power curves of the engine. This is why re-gearing gets you lost power from weight, larger tires, etc. back.

However, engines have revolution limitations in their design (redline). More revs before the tires turn also means you reach top speed sooner, because the tires aren't turning as often when the engine RPM is maxed out.

Also, the RPM of your engine will affect gas mileage. Generally speaking, the more engine RPM, the worse the gas mileage; however, this isn't always the case. Having more power at lower RPM usually improves mileage in situations involving acceleration, such as city driving. Constant RPM driving at a forced higher RPM, such as cruise control on the interstate, tends to do worse. For these reasons, most people that re-gear lower get better city mileage, but worse highway mileage.

Re-gearing to a higher gear has the opposite of all these effects.

There are a lot of reasons to re-gear - wanting more torque, compensating for weight or oversized tires, want to improve durability of the vehicle, wanting better control when driving at slow speeds...the list goes on a while.

What you need to figure out is what change you want the re-gear to accomplish, and then use the relationship of gear ratio to engine RPM, and the associated pros and cons, to determine how best to accomplish that.

As for cost, that depends; Gear sets usually only cost a few hundred dollars per differential, but there is a whole host of gaskets, bearings, spacers, shims, and other assorted hardware that is best off being replaced during a re-gear. Usually these come in the form of "master install kits" that cost another couple hundred per diff.

Then you have setup. Setting up gears is a detail oriented, very precise, very SENSITIVE process. If the setup is done wrong, you will have a whole host of problems, anywhere from a whining/grinding diff to broken gears, to a broken driveshaft, to a broken transmission. And any/all of this can happen without any warning whatsoever.

My recommendation is to find someone damn good at differential setup and pay them fair money to do it right. East Coast Gear Supply does fantastic work by all accounts. Labor often runs several hundred dollars per diff.

A total turnkey job, parts and labor, would run around $1500 to $2000 with quality parts. If you get the diffs set up for you and swap them in and out of the truck yourself, you'll probably save $300 to $500 in labor.

That should get you started. You have quite a bit more reading you should do before you act on this. Half-assed re-engineering of your vehicle is not recommended.

 

Woo, thanks a ton! thats a very good start in the right direction. My biggest problem is being underpowered now. I have bigger tires and added weight from armor...i have to down shift constantly which isnt a problem...its just when i have to go down into second gear to get up a hill from low speeds becuase the person in front of you pulled out just as you were about to pick up speed to get up the hill...sometimes my truck chants "i think i can...i think i can..."

But all the same, thank you very much for that, that was very imformative and I appriciate it!

 

Nice post. Very informative.