Long Travel BS Thread

my truck is not half assed. you have not seen it or what has all been done to it.
As far as caging and linking, its not so much a matter of bending the frame that people think you need it, its the fact that you are much more likely to roll it due to driving harder.

I am already in the planning stages of getting the cage built however. Going out, getting the tubing soon. and no, the truck is not "gnar gnar" thats not what I built it for, you dont know me. I was just merely stating that you dont exactly need a cage or all this other stuff to build your truck.

 

As close as I can get. My adjusters are maxed

 

No mine is over positive. They should be less. That as close as I can get to the "range". Caster gives you the straight line stability. When you let go of the wheel it wants to go back straight. The more caster you have the harder "tug" you will have on the wheel but it will tend to go straighter. The less caster you have the easier your wheel will turn but it will tend to not want to stay on center

 

so we dont plug the pic thread with bs... i knew i saw it on your build lol. i plan on running wheel spacers too so in my mind 7in bed sides was a must need.

so you only rubbed with that set up? you dont with your current setup?

heres 1 pic, waiting on the other oneto send

 

heres the other pic...

 

Positive caster AKA tilled toward the cab is better for offroad

 

thanks jason!

i was wanting to rub my tripple bypasses outside the frame rails but i dont think im going to be able to fit them.. lol

 

exactly. like i said, no way in hell can you run 2.5 bypass shocks outside the rails on the stock axle

adrian from icon swapped in a tundra axle and had DMZ build this cage

 

^^ he has to hit his bedsides when in the desert right?? theres no way they cant.

 

Adrian goes to the desert? I thought he just went to car shows.

 

Been doing some reading, and so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

These wheel studs are direct replacement (fitment size) for the stud on a 2nd Gen Tacoma?!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7715/

As a few of mine are rusted/requires heat to remove (stupid salt) so I figured I mind as well replace them with something strong at the same time!

EDIT: What lug nuts would I need to run these?!

 

Those are a little longer than stock, but they are the right ones. They are a very tight fit though, probably best to use a press instead of a BFH like I did. Just use an "open" metric lug nut that matches your wheel type. I used conical lug nuts, but those won't work with stock wheels. Also the ones in the rear are a pita to swap, I ended up drilling a hole in the backing plate but mine are 4" long too.

 

Okay, yea I figured a little longer isn't a big deal.

Well to install my LT I gotta take the whole hub assembly off (you know that obviously) so yea, I'll definitely use a press if my shop has one that works

As for wheels, I'm using Wheeler's Steelies (for now), so I was thinking an open ended acorn/tapered nut would work fine?!

 

love this bedcage. its so "lowprofile" takes up virtually no bedspace. thats what i want.

Could you do a cage like this and use some smoothbody shocks instead of bypasses and still have the stock axle?