MOD: Radio on after Ignition is turned off

[Version 1]

There is a really simple and easy way to allow your radio & clock to continue to operate with the vehicle turned off and the key removed from the ignition. This is similar in operation to GM vehicles. The radio will continue to operate for about 60 seconds or until the drivers door is opened. This mod utilizes the power window key-off delay circuit. This can be done on 95.5-01 Gen's also, but this is geared to the 2005+ gen.

Disclaimer: These notes are an account of what I did. I am sharing them in case someone is looking to do this too and can benefit from my install. This is not intended to be a definitive install guide. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing basic wiring.
I do not accept responsibly for any damages incurred before, during or after this mod has been performed. This is my hold harmless clause in that I am not liable for any damages, hardships or personal physical or emotional trauma that directly or indirectly occurred, may occur or could be incurred as a result of reading, interpreting or mis-interpreting a mis-spelled, mis-used or mis-interpreted word in this document or any version hence forth regarding this document.

Parts needed:
6’ of 18 or 22ga wire. (1) 4’ piece and (4) 6” pieces)
1 SPST relay*
4 female spade terminals that fit your relay.
4 quick taps
1 (Optional) 1Amp inline fuse


1. Remove the radio from the dash. I can’t find the link with pictures this second, but I’m an inpatient person in general so you will need to find out how to do this yourself.
2. Remove the lower drivers kick panel.
3. Remove the cubby hole door and remove the pink 30A fuse. (Their so expensive to replace it’s just a wise thing to do!) Oh & make sure the vehicle is off!!
4. Cut (3) 6” lengths of wire and attach a female spade terminal to all 3. [Hint: If you are going to utilize the inline fuse, that will take the place of (1) 6” length, so you will need (2) more.]
5. Attach a female spade terminal to the remaining 4’ length of wire.

Now the Fun Stuff!

6. Locate the Blue w/Yellow [L-Y] wire from the connector that is closest to the driver’s side.
7. Locate the Grey [GR] wire that is just next to it (Toward the pax side.)
8. Locate the Brown [BR] 18ga wire a few more pins down toward the pax side of the connector. [Hint: there is a similar wire that is a 22ga (or smaller gauge wire than the 18ga. that is for the speakers) DO NOT USE THIS ONE!!!!]

These wires are the supply wire (GR), the memory (L-Y) wire and the ground (BR) wire. The memory is already protected with the 7.5A accessory fuse located behind the cubbyhole door. The Grey wire is protected by the 10A radio#1 fuse under the hood. Here is where the optional 1A fuse can be placed inline. If you prefer to skip this, proceed to step 10.

9. Quick tap the [L-Y] wire and install the 1A inline fuse holder. Attach a female spade terminal to the other side of the fuse holder. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, you just need to tap off it.] Proceed to Step 11.
10. Quick tap the [L-Y] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
11. Quick tap the [GR] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
12. Quick tap the [BR] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
13. Feed the non-terminal end of the 4’ length of wire behind the dash attaching it securely and out of the way as you run it over to the drivers kick panel.
14. [I will add a photo when I can get my camera working] I actually ended up taking the whole lower dash apart, found the wire as it entered the Main control box and traced it back to the kick panel, so telling you where it is by words is going to be difficult. Locate the power window main feed wire. This wire is a red 18ga wire that runs near the rear of the kick panel. It is bundled with the trailer brake harness connector, which also has the same size & color of wire. There is also a similar pink wire, when in unfavorable light looks red. The proper wire will exit the kick panel and travel to the driver’s door.
15. Quick tap the red wire and attach the 4’ length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]

Behind the radio:
16. Attach the 4’ female spade terminal to the #85 or coil pole.
17. Attach the [BR] 6” jumper wire to the #86 or coil pole.
18. Attach the [L-Y] 6” jumper wire to the #30 or common pole.
19. Attach the [GR] 6” jumper wire to the #87 or N/O pole.

20. Test the system to insure proper operation and all connection are secure. See introduction as to normal system operation.
21. Reinstall the Kick panel, Radio and clean up area.


Conclusion: I did this mod the next day after I picked up my truck from the dealer with no ill effects.

* I initially used an old fog light relay to perform this and worked well in my 97 Tacoma for 135,000 miles and numerous cycles. I again initially used the same relay in my 08 but since where the relay was mounted the click annoyed the crap out of me. I then dug up an old circuit board with a 5amp, quiet relay and made my own board using this relay. I’m sure with little electrical know how and soldering skills, you can get pieces from Radio Shack and make your own board with a quieter relay. Or you can install the relay farther from the driver.

 

It's no fog light anytime mod, but it's a cake walk compared to the Locker mod!!

IF anyone has trouble locating the power window wire, I'm going to try and explain some more. you will see a wire bundle running vertical that the tow harness is doubled back and taped to with white electrical tape. Besides the pink and the second red, I don't believe there is any more red wires. Atleast not of that gauge. It's stupidly easy to find once you locate it!!!

IF someone does this and can snap a picture of the wire, please post it. I wish I had a digital camera, but I have to upgrade this 486 computer first!!

 

Here is the photo I snapped now that I got my camera working. I hope this clarifies it for all you PM'ers.
You can see the tap and the trailer harness very clearly.

 

I'm gonna give this a try. Funny thing I noticed yesterday when I had to remove my avic-z2 due to failure...the windows would go up and down with the key out. For some reason when I install the avic that feature goes away?? I was wondering if it had something to do with the unused plug on the factory radio that the taco wiring harness doesn't call for? I'll let you know how my install goes when i get the avic back.

 

Nice write up, but I don't have the balls to try it. Plus I usually get out of my truck when I turn it off. Great job. You get rep.

 

Does this work for the JBL stereo? (Old thread, I know )

 

According to the FSM wiring diagram, the colors are all the same for the JBL.

Still working 3 years later!!
In fact, I forgot I even did this.

 

I discovered a more simpler way to do this:

Parts/tools needed:

1. 3-4" of 20g jumper wire, expose some copper on both ends
2. Fuse puller

Steps:

1. Pull 7.5A and 20A PWR WDO fuse
2. Insert jumper wire from your 7.5A ACC fuse slot to the 20A PWR window fuse slot.
3. Reinsert fuses, test

In my case, I ran jumper to the P RR P/W fuse

Works like a champ, 21 steps down to three.

 

That is easier and it works. It will most likely work for the lifetime of the vehicle.

But no shortcut comes for free.

You have by-passed the 7.5 amp limit on the wiring for the accessory circuit, allowing a potential 20a of current in smaller gauge wiring designed for a max of 7.5a.
The accessory circuit powers more than just the radio, Including the cigarette lighter and the power outlet. It would be possible (not probable, as I'm aware) to be utilizing both the 12+ sources (w/two larger watt power inverters for example) and over draw the 7.5a limit thus blowing the 7.5a fuse. But you will never know, as the 20a feed will still power the 7.5a circuit wiring.
Now the "lifetime of the vehicle" limitation has been drastically shortened and can be predicted with up most certainty by the impending electrical fire.

Although, any US citizen can do as they wish (at least as of August 24, 2011 0451UTC), so it is up to the end user. But as a amateur electrician and to be able to rest at night, I can not advocate any shortcut that violates the Electronic Industry Code of Conduct.

 

@CtryBoy

You're right. I think I'll add a fuse in between and make the jumper a 14 ga wire.



BTW, did u go to UND? I took some classes there back in the 80's when I was stationed at Grand Forks.

 

Not bad for an 11 year old lol

 

@dubbed

I thought the same thing...

 

An [in-line / ATM (mini)] 7.5a fuse between the two will do the trick. Your 20 ga. wire will still work. No need to go larger as NEC rated copper 20ga wire will handle up to 11 amps. Factory wiring harness in the Acc. circuit is 20-22ga depending on the location, FWIW. Oh, and as long as you don't go absolutely crazy and use something like over 100 feet in the jumper run!

Yes, I did a full 7 years at UND. Not cause I couldn't earn enough credits to graduate, Just cause I liked being a student and refused to!!


Anyway... Glad to help out!

PS: Re: being 11, I was home schooled!! LoL
Multiply that number by 3 or 4!!

 

CtryBoyInMT, Do you know how long the timer is in your truck for the stereo to work before the window circuit shuts off? Is it really only for 60 seconds?

 

Yes, this is correct. And it's more closely to 45 Sec. on my 08. Been a few years but I recall my 97 was longer [edit: thought for some reason you had a 1999], but not anywhere near 10 mins. like the GM vehicles, etc.

It's a compromise between using the system already in place on the vehicle or:
1. Assembling and installing a 3 relay "beehive" if you wanted it to stay on until you open the door.
2. Integrating, building, setting up and testing a 555 timer. <--Just Google it. Put on two pots of coffee and prepare to take at least three mental drain breaks.

It is what it is. And to be honest, the little extra time it does provide really is a convenience.

 

LOVE IT! I was looking at the 21 steps making tim the toolman sounds. and the rest of the intel is great thanks to all!

 

this is how i did it, now. I didn't have a 7.5 amp on hand / lazy I used 10 amp and solder two wires and plug them in.

 

This is the way to do it if you want to make sure that the radio stays on until the door is opened and not just until the power window times out. You will need 3 SPST 5-pin Relays for this. It looks crazy but really isnt. You will also need two 1amp diodes. Follow the picture and it works great:



The diagram shows a total of 5 wires coming off the relay setup. Most of them are identical connections as what is listed in OP.

Accessory from Switch: the is the accessory wire that leads the the back of your radio (blue/yellow according to OP, I have not confirmed). For this the wire gets cut in half and this is the car side of that wire.

Radio Accessory: This is the radio side of that blue/yellow wire you cut in half for the previous step.

Fused 12v: This can connect to the Gray wire on your radio (according to OP, again, not confirmed)

Ground: Can be connected to a ring terminal and drilled to ground, or as OP stated, connect to the Brown wire.

(-) Door Trigger: This wire will vary by vehicle year and make. 05-08 is different than 09+ and is also different than pre-05'. You can PM me for specific info, or go to http://techservices.codesystems.com/Login.aspx and register, Then out in year make and model and look for "All Door Trigger" for your vehicle (NOTE-IT MUST BE NEGATIVE- if + then this will not work... see http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram31.html for instruction for a (+) door trigger vehicle)

This is what it looks like when its finished:




Source:
The12volt.com
And I have done this for myself and it works perfect!

From their website:
If you wish to keep the radio (or any other device that is powered by an accessory circuit) on until a door is opened, you can do so by creating a latch when the accessory is turned on with the relay shown below on the left, then breaking ground to the latch when a door is opened as shown with the two relays below on the right. To prevent 12V+ from feeding back into the accessory circuit you need to isolate the device you want to stay powered by cutting the accessory wire going to it and adding two 1 amp diodes as shown below. The first diode near the top left of the diagram is to prevent 12V+ from going back into the accessory circuit. The second diode between terminals 87 and 86 prevents the radio from pulling current through the first diode. If the second diode is not in place, the first diode will become toast.

 

Right so in summary the easiest safest way to do this is...