Subwoofer Installed with stock deck and hits hard

Nice, Ill be doing the same soon, where did you hook the remote wire into?

 

Judging by your reaction to the bass, I'm going to assume you're new to car audio. I reallly reallly suggest you have someone who has worked with JL systems before setup your equipment. JL has a very cut and dry manual stating how to setup your amp. The "input level" knob is NOT a gain knob and if you're running 6V into that system, then it should be almost all the way down. Also, I just went back over the manual, and you should have your Input Level switch set to HIGH.

 

Not new to car audio, just not a competition level person. I've always had systems in my vehicles over the last 10 years. This is my first experience with the tacoma install and a good system so I didn't know what to expect.

You are correct that on the 500/1 the input level should be at the lowest level where it sounds good. This was the main point of my experience. I installed it without a line driver and the level switch at low (for 2 volt input or less) and honestly the sub was pretty weak.
I added the line driver and switched the input level to high and lowered the input level to almost zero and got great results, hence no need to upgrade the headunit.

Of note to people considering this amp, the manual has many different examples of setups that can be used as a guide. I don't suggest finding a JL person to tune it, but instead suggest some common sense, reading the entire manual, and reading car audio forums which is what I did. The bass boost that I referenced above was far too strong for my taste and thus it is turned all the way down.

 

Unless you're running your equipment balls to the wall or you're running SPL subs and you're doing burps, you shouldn't feel ANY heat without touching the cone. But then again I'm not into the SPL stuff and I never run equipment to failure. If you're at the limits of a speaker you're already so high in distortion it's worthless in an SQ world.

 

Good call, JL audio is not the answer all.... when it comes to car audio. Many more better choices out there.

 

I agree with that most of the time. JL does have a good product set though and their equipment runs hard. The first and only JL product I've ever owned is the JL HD 900/5 and I love it. I never see it because it's hidden and I never have to mess with it because it always works. Even this summer when it's been 110+ outside and it's likely 150+ inside the truck I just hop in and the thing fires up like it's no big deal.

 

X3...I'm eventually going to do this to my truck, although on a slightly smaller scale. I like the look of the Mr. Marv enclosure I saw in another post here. It's designed for a 10" sub and still leaves room for two passengers in the back.

 

You're gonna argue me on this one till the cows come home huh? You must be an expert. I should know better than to argue with an expert. I dunno, it must be little gremlins, blowing their hot breath on the back of my hand as it nears the subwoofer. But that's strange, I've felt them do it so many times-they must just follow me everywhere!




PLEASE go find one of your buddies who likes to blast his subs and put the back of your hand in front of the cone. This is getting annoying, you are wrong and I'm not thread jacking anymore.

 

Sorry, I didn't expect common sense from anyone anymore, I know, its sad. You're right though, reading through the entire manual is good, but many people would be lost when it comes to the "target AC voltage" section with a meter. I see so many stereos nowadays and I ask the guys, did you tune it? And they give me a stupid look. You won't believe how many in my hometown think that a quick tune is crossover all the way down/gain all the way up. Anyways, I was only really poppin in to warn you about a possible overpower, and this keyboard commando got me riled up. Good luck and stay safe.

 

Any heat from any stereo component is bad news {although my amps run hot when I push them}, heat destroys.

 

John, why haven't we talked before? It seems we share a couple hobbies here PM sent.

 

Not exactly true. Heat is a byproduct of the amp doing it's job. They don't build amps with heatsinks for aesthetic reasons. Any component with an amplifier is going to get warm or even hot when used. It's extreme or excessive heat that can eventually cause damage.

 

I completely agee, I can crank my stereo up to the point where you can cook food on my amps and crossovers but nothing good is happening accept for permanent hearing loss and stereo deterioration. Got a blown 1000w RMS sub sitting in front me now. Heat does mess a stereo up.

 

I'd be pretty impressed if you blew that sub up due to too much power. Sounds to me like you probably slammed the chassis a little too much... not many amps can feed a beast like that. Possibly too large of a box?

 

Thats a joke, right?

If not, its probably time to stop giving audio advice on the Internet. Even if you did sleep at a Holiday Inn.

 

My bad I meant the "Input Sens" is not a volume knob, and should knot be treated as such. You should probably stop talking on this forum is you're going to be such an asshole. Theres a bigggg long discussion about this over in the Off-topic forum. Maybe you should check it out

 

But you do realize that the "input Sens" knob on the JL Audio amps are gain knobs, right? They even call it that themselves, in the tutorial they have on their site, and on the description of the tutorial.

Thats the important part.


didnt mean to hurt your feelings. Just trying to make sure that correct information is provided.

Feel free to provide any links you wish.

 

I got carried away with that last one, no my box is perfectly designed with the perfect port tubes, 2 years of R&D went into that box, many hours on the phone with Rockford Tech Dept, the box is sound. The amps are perfectly mated to there sub, 1 BD1000 running a 4ohm DVC at 2ohms, 1 1200? Rockford amp brigged at 4ohm running a 2DVC wired in series. This sub has blown twice in 3 years, hopefully the 1200w one holds up. I have 2900w RMS at my dissposal, only using 2500, there is no power issue.

 

Thats pretty much the reason they don't call it gain anymore though. Everything thinks if you turn up the gain, you're turning up the volume on your amp.....which couldn't be farther from right. I definitely don't like calling it a gain knob and I won't teach that to anyone.

Man and I thought I listened to my music loud Sounds like the sub just isn't capable of that kinda power over time then. Thats ridiculous man. I bet it sounds good though!

 

Keyboard commando....that's borderline clever


And his amp is perfect for that sub. Way better than giving it a lower level clipped signal. That would kill it faster than sending it too much clean power.