speaker replacement advice

i recently put in a new head unit into my truck (avh-2300dvd) and i'm looking to replace the stock speakers since i'm not getting the mids and highs that i want. i'm trying to avoid having to buy an amp. i know the stock speakers are 6x9, but should i get a different size like 6.5's, what brand of speaker, and 2 or 3 ways, replace just the front speakers or all four? here are the specs on the new head unit. TIA!!!

General
Chassis Size Code DD
CEA-2006 Compliant Yes
RMS Power Output 14 watts
Peak Power Output 50 watts
RMS Power Bandwidth 20-20kHz
Preamp Outputs 4-channel
Preamp Voltage 2 volts
Subwoofer Preamp Outputs No
Monitor Size (diagonal) 5 13/16
Key Button Color Variable
EQ Bands 5
Wireless Remote Yes
Steering Wheel Control Compatible Yes
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty

 

When not adding a subwoofer I typically will install a good set of 6x9 components or 6x9 2 way coaxials up front as 6.5's really won't produce enough low bass to fill out the bottom end needed to make most music sound "full". Everybody has different listening tastes so the best bet if possible is to go around and listen to them yourself otherwise you'll have to rely on reviews etc online. Also, if not adding an external amp I look for speakers that are very sensitive to get the "most" from the headunit amps limited power and in in any case I stay away from those 3,4,5,6 way "gadget" speakers preferring to stick with just a "good" mid/tweeter.

 

I installed some Pioneer 6.5 Components and they are clean and LOUD! There's hardly any bass though, which is why I have a sub as well.

 

since when do speakers even play bass? you should have them crossed well before sub bass even gets close to them, and round speakers ftw.

if you want good mid bass, buy mid bass speakers.

 

6X9 up front and the rear are 6.5 I would replace all 4.. Your going to need adapters tho. Check out Mr.Marv or uhhh taco tunes but the have gotten loads of bad reviews.

 

hey guys. thanks for all the replies! I'm still debating on exactly what i want to do. I'm considering all options though.

 

I dont know about you, but ANY set of speakers I put in my doors I want to play into the sub-bass range. Heck, I usally crossover between 63 and 80hz, depending on the crossover section available on the processor or deck I am using. And, of course, you know that is sub bass.

Lots of speakers play sub bass. I have a pair of 2" full range drivers that will play sub bass. Not loudly, but they will play it.

The reality is, unless you are running a sub, people expect door speakers to play down to the 50hz range. And many of them do, unless you have a crossover in place... But bass is a function of moving air, so like Marv said, a bigger cone will help if you dont have a subwoofer.

 

sub'd. im in the same boat.

 

alright then, enjoy your 50hz tones played through speakers powered off a deck lol totally badass

 

focal 165vr3- front
focal 165cvx rear
jl 13-tw5 sub
jl hd900/5 amp

thats the setup i did in my wifes car it sounds fukin amazing!

 

yes technically any speaker will play "sub" bass but smaller speakers arent designed to so it will never sound right.

 

I would recomment 6.5" speakers over 6x9s. First off you have a lot more to choose from and they are typically a better acoustical speaker. I would recommend a set of 6.5 components, jl tr series if you plan to not get an amp or c2(or c5) series if you plan to amp them. I'm impartial to JL, greta bang for your buck with excellent audio quality

 

I'd agree that you have more choices in "good" 6.5" component sets which I would normally suggest when adding a subwoofer however the OP did not mention adding a subwoofer which is why I prefaced my comments with "When not adding a subwoofer". In any case here is a good read concerning the myth of round speakers sounding better than oval speakers.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-speakers-cant-sound-good-round-speakers.html

 

Understanding how speakers work with crossovers, and what frequencies they play when a crossover is used, will help you greatly.

And who listens to tones? What are you talking about?

Not the point of the post. And sounding right is relative. If a 2" driver can play subbass, but due to cone area and excursion, it is only able to play it up to 50db, you would never hear it. Push it higher, and you get distortion. I am guessing this is what you mean by "never sound right", and that is absolutely correct.

I would venture that 99.99% of speakers in peoples doors are playing sub-bass. Factory speakers are, any set of speakers a person puts in a door are, even if they have crossovers in place. Most "decks" will have a crosssover setting (that most people ignore) with a HP of ~80-100hz for a car. Even with the 100hz setting, you are only 12db down (again, most decks will have a 12db/oct slope) at 50hz, so you are getting plenty of sub-bass from the mids.

Its what helps blend systems. I am certainly not advocating small woofers, though many companies are offering 5" - 7" subs that are known to do very well. Moving air is king, so I dont know that I would go that direction for loud bass, but it is ignorant to say that door speakers dont play sub-bass.

And again, I am agreeing with Marv. Bass is about moving air, and a 'by nine will have more cone area, giving you a boost in bass output.

 

Moral of the story is use a speaker that has the mechanical and thermal limits to accomplish what you want. If you want sub bass from a speaker make sure it has a decent amount of throw or is acoustically loaded.

 

All summarize-y today, aren't we...

 

well theres a difference between dont and shouldnt, personally I like my music clear, and not muddy with a side of distortion.