Spark Plug makers say no anti-seize

Found this reading and curious what you think.

I like the idea of anti-seize but also understand what NGK states.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

and they weren't the only company. Denso, AC/Delco and Autolite were cited on other forums.

I guess for me, it's reminder to be careful of the torque and maybe reduce it it I use a antiseize.

Any thoughts or experience?

 

Interesting...

So the main issue, according to the article, is the anti-seize allowing you to over-torque the plugs. I always use a good torque wrench and will keep using my anti-seize

Most folks use way too much of the stuff anyway. The last pictures in the linked article show more than twice as much on that plug as I normally use.

 

Anti sieze type thread dressings are never a good idea with threads/bolts that make a sealing surface , not just get tight, spark plugs don't require a great amount of torque to seal & stay tight by design, just like oil filters, just wet the gasket & run it down til it makes contact with surface & 1/4 turn, done with no leaks, no loosening...

 

dont believe in anti-sieze

 

Torquing spark plugs?
Who the hell does that..I tighten till snug, then 1/3 turn and done.


Torquing is not needed on anything except for wheels IMO..I've never had ANY problems.
That's just me though..and I'm me.

 

Interesting.

Here is the Denso info that says don't use it, but it is simpler and does not go into any detail about metal types.

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/installation/index.html

This is the first I've heard of this. I've always used a tiny smear down one side of the threads in a straight line—far, far less than the boogered up pics in the NGK doc, and torqued to spec without any problems.

 

Boy, all those metallurgists, engineers, and manual writers sure have been wasting their time on useless details. You should give them a call.

 

Good plan, I'll get on that on Monday.

I mean Tuesday, since they are probably off Monday.

 

I put a small amount on the threads and always will, I use a torque wrench too!

 

X2.

 

pretty sure that the threads in the heads (hey a rhyme) arent aluminum & all the technical mumbo jumbo is really just a name for electrolysis. If you tighten your plugs too much what happens is from constant heating/cooling (expansion & contraction) the threads start to cavitate & collapse on each other making the plug seem more like part of the head instead of a part FOR the head....

 

Good luck in the future rebuilding a motor son .

A little anti seize won't hurt but like anything too much of something isn't good. Reason why the new vehicles bond is because the plugs now days are run for longer amounts of time before they are changed out for new ones. Iridiums will out last copper core plugs by 60-80k if your ride is in good working order hence the price difference between the two. For all those guys that don't like anti-seize obviously you haven't dealt with rusted corroded bolts on exhuast manifolds before, buy a 20 year old forced induction ride and then get back to me.

 

Interesting find. I agree though, the example pictures are way more than I use, and I try to smear it into the groves before putting them in.

 

no shit huh, that doesn't seem to be the best setup to me but I digress, I recently changed my plugs (with the dreaded BOSCH plugs, no issues at all with them, starts fine ,runs great) & removal was also a non event, go figure...

 

They didn't say to NEVER use anti sieze - only that it isn't required on SOME spark plugs but IS required on others....

Summary
All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the
plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize.

 

And this is a good point. I actually prefer some not-long-lasting things in some applications, and spark plugs is one of them. I mean, isn't 30,000 miles a long enough interval to take a peak at your burn and simultaneously yank the plugs before any corrosion can get well-established...

I would think the same with diffs and using non-synth. A good time to inspect for shiny bits and compromised oil from immersion/leaks.

 

Ahh! More debate on anti-seize. I've been working on cars, power equipment, and general stuff for 40 years and swear by anti-seize. It allows for correct torquing of nuts, bolts, and plugs. It does NOT cause the thread to loosen. The active material in anti-seize is a soft metal powder or synthetic. This acts as a slip barrier so the parts will not bind when installed and hold tight when torqued. Most important it allows for removal when necessary because it stops corrosion. In all my years of cranking a wrench on various pieces of equipment I can't recall anything coming lose because of anti-seize. I can't even imagine not using it on something as soft as aluminum threads with a steel spark plug. I don't care what the plug manufacture says.