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Issues after lift/rims

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ILove2Drive, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. Sep 7, 2011 at 5:37 PM
    #21
    inesshell

    inesshell blah blah blah

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    ive got the same setup, @ second rung and my cv joints are not angled like that. vibes are normally balance issues. i had lead weights on my rims at first and they still had the vibes and than i switch to dyna beads for my balance and that solved it.
     
  2. Sep 7, 2011 at 5:50 PM
    #22
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep those are the springs I have. How could you tell exactly that it was set at .85? It says my front left caster is 1.2 degrees, front right is 1.3 degrees, and cross caster is -0.1.

    What should it do if it is my front CVs and I put it in 4 Hi? And if it is the CVs how would I go about getting that fixed?
     
  3. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:08 PM
    #23
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What are dyna beads? And where did you have that done at?
     
  4. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:09 PM
    #24
    Johns Taco

    Johns Taco I'm not 4x4, and have an open diff. So i'm 4x1

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    I had some similar problems that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did, ended up just living it. 5 years later when I got new tires the problem was gone, I should have taken my truck to a different shop because my tires were either bad or the shop was having amatuer day all the times I went back for rebalancing.
     
  5. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:25 PM
    #25
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/E4-WM5-Y323A00.pdf

    There are four grooves on the Bilstein 5100. No groove showing means you are at 0. One groove showing means .85". Two grooves showing means 1.75".

    Your caster values are within tolerance but on the low side. Don't think they can be improved unless you get upgraded upper control arms ($$).

    If it's front CVs causing the vibes, putting it in 4Hi changes the CVs from unloaded to loaded (torque flowing through them), so vibrations will change.

    Where are you getting your wheel balancing done? Not all shops are equal. For example, when I got my winter wheel/tire combo online, the vendor supposedly RoadForce-balanced them, but I got nasty vibrations. I got them rebalanced at a local Toyota dealer and the weights are at 90 degrees from where they were before. :rolleyes:
     
  6. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:31 PM
    #26
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool, thanks for info man! Hmm...would that cause vibrations at all or what would it do with bad caster values? I know UCA's would cost at least like $400, so maybe down the road if it wouldn't hurt anything to keep the UCAS I have now or would it? Should the vibes get worse when going into 4HI if it is the CVs? I've been having it done at just a local tire shop...I can feel the vibrations in the pedal from moving as slow as just pulling out of my driveway but the steering wheel doesn't shake until I'm going over 45 MPH. I was thinking about maybe trying to take it to the dealer for a balance tomorrow actually..think it would help?
     
  7. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:43 PM
    #27
    dman597

    dman597 Well-Known Member

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    IDK man but if u find the solution let me know. I have the same exact prob.
     
  8. Sep 7, 2011 at 6:54 PM
    #28
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will do brother! Gonna try to get a balance at the dealer tomorrow and see if it helps anything
     
  9. Sep 7, 2011 at 7:01 PM
    #29
    dman597

    dman597 Well-Known Member

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    dude while your there ask them to check you front diff oil level if they will do that for free! just to rule that out.
     
  10. Sep 7, 2011 at 7:14 PM
    #30
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    It almost sound like a balance issue... But I would rule out the Front diff. first.
    Put it in 4hi and see if it goes away, if so then its your front diff./cv's...

    But let us know if the rebalance at the dealer works out.... If not then I would say maybe a bad tire or something.
     
  11. Sep 7, 2011 at 7:27 PM
    #31
    bolson

    bolson Well-Known Member

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    Do you have proper lug nuts?
     
  12. Sep 7, 2011 at 7:45 PM
    #32
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool man, will do! So if there are no vibrations when I put it in 4HI then thats where my problem is...or did I read that backwards?

    Well, actually, I bought new ones to come with my rims BUT i noticed after having my lift installed that shop evidentally got my lug nuts mixed up with other ones because I have two different types of lug nuts on some of my rims (I think its just the rear wheels that had the mix up but I'm not positive)
     
  13. Sep 7, 2011 at 10:37 PM
    #33
    inesshell

    inesshell blah blah blah

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    you can read about it on google.

    http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.php

    they are beads you put inside your tire. I do my own mounting and i buy the beads from the local auto store mile away from my house.

    you can also seach equi balancing. if you go this route and decide to go back to lead you need to tell the balancer you run equi so he can vacuum them out. I use them for a while now and they havent given me problems
     
  14. Sep 8, 2011 at 4:30 AM
    #34
    Bolt79

    Bolt79 Well-Known Member

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    I'm having the same problem. I, recently, put on after-market wheels and new tries (Duratracs) , and I'm noticing some slight vibration at 45 - 50 mph. I'm thinking it's either a balance issue or an over-inflation issue. I'm going to try the chalk test and see if that helps.
     
  15. Sep 8, 2011 at 8:37 AM
    #35
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright I took some more pics this morning to maybe help give a better idea of what the CVs look like and also got a shot of my rear shock and just a general picture of the rear. It has been suggested to me that a front diff drop could solve my problems with the CVs, but then I may run into issues with my front drive line. Is this something worth looking into? I have an appointment at the dealer this afternoon for a tire balance, so hopefully I will be able to rule that out soon!

    CIMG3143_949030795a60b3ac1e4608fff740da5ef39c5479.jpg

    CIMG3141_742b91a9a826de1a4b2a5b79ccc6f508a1ac99ca.jpg

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    CIMG3140_cbfa419b3a4cb16cc26d614f5b1c68a58c8b0835.jpg

    CIMG3134_c983a10fa42b8f9d9c422c8b815e4bf70fb26541.jpg
     
  16. Sep 8, 2011 at 11:43 AM
    #36
    ILove2Drive

    ILove2Drive [OP] Well-Known Member

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    At the dealer now, they're supposed to drive it around a little and check it out and see if they can diagnose exactly what's causing it. I'll report back later after I see what happens.
     
  17. Sep 8, 2011 at 12:35 PM
    #37
    Pugga

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  18. Sep 8, 2011 at 12:59 PM
    #38
    angrysam

    angrysam Huh?

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    I believe you're a 2.7L? Try setting your fronts at 0 if that hasn't been mentioned yet.

    The shake over 45 is most likely tire balancing or rims not seated to the hubs correctly. Try rotating the front tires to the rear and see if it changes. If it gets better have the rear tires (formerly front tires) rebalanced. Also check into road force balancing.

    The vibration through the gas pedal could be a tire balance issue but I'd check your rear drive shaft angles. You might need a set of shims. I couldn't quite seem them in the picks.
     
  19. Sep 8, 2011 at 1:25 PM
    #39
    Fatback17

    Fatback17 Masshole

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    Bilsteins have no "close to it" there are 4 distinct settings. With the eibach coils you have they should be set at zero!

    Again with the eibach coils you should be set at zero

    This along with the "close to it" from above says that your lift was not professionally installed as you say. whoever installed your lift has no clue, your truck is sitting much to high as can be seen by your cv angles. The ribs on your CV boots are rubbing to much and will wear out very quick. Bring your truck to someone who knows what they are doing and have your struts installed properly before you break something. Also you should be positive you have the correct lugnuts on your truck. Incorrect lugnuts could damage your wheels or worse, fail allowing the wheel to come off.
     
  20. Sep 8, 2011 at 2:03 PM
    #40
    Yodaforce

    Yodaforce Diverse-Customs.com

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    9 times out of 10 it's a wheel tire issue.
    1. The tire shops do not pay very well, so they end up having some minimum wage idiot mounting and balancing.
    2. If there is a slight deformation on a tire or wheel, above said idiot would not pay it any attention while it's on the balancer and report it to you. I have seen brand new tires out of round, and a few wheels that looked almost bent (brand new out of the box). The "idiot" would usually just pile on the weight and let it roll.
    3. When mounting an after market wheel to the vehicle for the first time with new lugs, each lug should only be hand tight before impacting them and torque. This would ensure a proper "centered" seat. If they threw them on and went straight for the impact, they can actually off center the conical seat on the wheel, and tightening each lug after that will only do the same thing.
    4. When getting a wheel rebalanced, require that all of the old weights are removed. Alot of shops will throw the wheel on the machine, spin it, and if it calls for weight, they will add it to the existing weights. WRONG! You're supposed to remove the weights, respin, THEN balance it.
    I had a buddy just a few weeks ago that just got new wheels and tires. He complained about a vibration and I told him to have them rebalanced, but WATCH them rebalance them. Of course, the shop would not allow him to get close enough to see the work. So he brings the truck to me to look it over. I found one of his front wheels with 21.5oz of stick ons and clamp ons. WHAT? I have mounted and balanced thousands of wheels and tires in my life and have NEVER seen so much weight on a wheel. Turns out, when he went back to get it balanced, they just piled more weight on top of what was already there. Litererally stacking the stick on weights 3 deep because they could not get any more clamp ons on the wheel. Duh. Idiots.
    I have spent years looking for a shop who would do it like I was trained by BFGoodrich years ago, and I have only found ONE shop. Too bad I have to drive an hour and a half to them.
     

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