Issues after lift/rims

Another thing... I have had a few tires that needed too much weight to balance. Simple fix. Break the bead, rotate the tire on the wheel 180, reseat, rebalance. Usually it takes out alot of the weight. New tires actually have a mark on the tire (paint dot) that designates the valve stem location when mounting. Most shops ignore it or do not even know that's what it's for. If there is a slight unbalance to a new tire, the tire manufacturer works it out to help make up for it when it gets mounted.

 

I agree and am pretty sure this is the cause fo the the vibes. Have the shocks set to 0 and test.

 

Unless he purchased some really high dollar wheels, then we all know they are not hub-centric, however, on a truck (rather than a tight suspension sports car) they are not neccesary as long as they are mounted correctly (snug lugs, then torque).

 

I'm not exactly sure why they shouldn't work at their current setting because I've read on here that they can be set at 0.85 with the eibachs but no higher. I really like the height and am very happy with the stance and if I can keep from it, I would rather not take them down a setting. But like you said with my angles, something isn't right.

Also, I did have the tires balanced at the dealer today. Found out that the shop I had had them balanced at (JUST this past saturday) had 2 of my tires off by like 5 ounces. The steering wheel shake is almost non existent now, VERY minor at say 70 and above MPH but below that no shaking whatsoever. So that was a definite answer to my steering wheel shake problem.

However, the vibrations are still there, at 70 mph I don't even notice those, but from about 50 and below I can still feel the vibration in the wheel and pedal.

Dealer also said that steering wheel is slightly off center and pulls to the left. He said it was probably just an alignment issue and if it bothered me I could bring it back and they would align it (I had alignment done at same shop as tire balance, but I did have print saying everything was in spec). Having this off center wouldn't be a cause of any vibrations or harm anything though would it? I don't notice it pulling really but it would be more or less of an aggravation kind of thing than anything else, right?

All in all pretty successful day, I'm that much closer to getting to the bottom of it

 

Here is a link to the specs on the rims I have (I have the 16X8s):

http://www.racelinewheels.com/s-9-wheel-specifications.aspx?ProductID=594

 

Most shops have a 30 day warranty on alignment. Have it done again, pointing out that you would like your steering wheel centered. It's not that difficult if they know what they are doing, and they should always test drive it after aligning. If they cannot get it right, ask for your money back so you can go to someone who knows what they are doing.
Shaking in the steering wheel CAN be brake rotors. The only way to know is to setup a dial caliper and check for run out. It can happen when the rotors are hot and then running through a big puddle of water. It's that easy to get them like that.
I do not see where a slightly different setting on ride height would cause any vibration.

 

the dot part on the tire is the lightest part on the tire it makes sense to line it up with the valve since that is where the most of the weight is.

OP. i found this photo of my cv on my photobucket and thought you might want to do a cv drop to ease the angle in the future. I have the same setup as you cept i have the 1/4 spacers on both sides.



i hope you get your problem solved.

 

I'm kind of questioning them now after the way the balanced them, hasn't been as good as it is now since I had them install the rims and balance them. So it's worth it to me to take it to the dealer and let them get it aligned right if I end up doing that. I may have to look into the rotors if getting these CVs fixed doesn't work..but after getting them balanced today the steering wheel shake is practically non-existent...just have the vibration/pulsing feeling coming from the gas pedal and steering wheel. I agree with you there, as many people that run at this height with no issues, I wouldn't think it would be a problem.

That definitely looks way better than mine! Where did you get your CV drop at? That very well may be my next move.

 

its just a 1" spacer. you can make one from a lathe machine and buy a longer bolt. Toyteclifts sells one for 20 bucks? i think its where i got it.

 

If you order from Toytec, call them vs ordering online. Their online shipping calculator doesn't calculate shipping right for small, light items. Give them a call and they set it straight.

 

Is this what you're talking about? Just order one of these and that's it?

 

Take a pic of your of the lower coil seat on your front shocks. It is possible that the seats are on upside down.

 

I had that happen to me.. But in the second picture the pirch is flipped the right way.

 

yep that looks right.

 

He put pics on page 1, they're on the right way. I'm guessing it's because it's a 4 cyl regular cab, no weight over the front end to settle the coils down.

 

What setting are the 5100s set at? The Eibach coils do provide lift on their own.

 

Can I call them now or is that an operating hours only kind of deal?

 

They're set at .85

 

You have to call them during operating hours. I tried to order a CB drop kit online and it came up at like $10 to ship a $5 part but if you call they'll put it in a flat rate envelope and ship it cheap. They said it's just an error with the online shipping calculator.

 

Ah yeah its showing like 15 bucks and some change to ship it lol so I'm in the same boat as you were.