Sub-woofer suggestions!

I'm not sure what your total power is, but I'm running two amps and my lights don't dim at all. I am a JL nuthugger as 06SR5 calls em I run a 300/4 and a 250/1. Class D amps by design do not draw as much power to dim the lights as well, they are more efficient. Tacoma's have a pretty strong battery too.

 

im not saying theyre bad or anything, just mainstream and expensive due to hype and marketing.

I love the small, up and coming companies that have pure enthusiasm towards customer service, and build the best products they can for the best price they can. My experience with sundown was outstanding, they should be the benchmark.

 

With you there, I have had great experiences with my Sundown gear. If I could find a matching E8 (v1) I might be running those in the truck. Jacob is good people. Great experience with Nick from Stereo Integrity as well as Kevin from DIY Cable/Exodus Audio. My experiences with Steven (ItalynStylion on here) is a great, and he is the US rep for Creative Sound Solutions, and they have some fantastic subs like the SDX10. Should blow a lot of mass market stuff out of the water, if you can manage the depth.

 

I'm standing behind my origional statement of a JL Audio 10w3 as JL reccommends a 300w amp as optimal power. You can get two 4 ohm subs wire them in series for a two ohm load at the amp in a good box and have them playing happily for years to come. The second amp won't hurt a thing, if your lights dim with two amps either there is something wrong with your truck or my alt is pumping out extra power. IMO cap's don't do anything except look cool. Installing under the seat is just fine I have both of my amps under my seats, a Kenwood KAC-8105D under my passenger seat and it won't even think about getting hot after a three hour drive with a truck full of friend with music blasting heading to see my Clemson Tigers do work. The only time I worry about placement of the amp is on a rainy day when I have people in the back, then I make them wipe their feet before gettin in the truck.

 

Never heard a Kicker i didnt like. I bought a 12" Kicker SoloBaric L3 with a Kicker ported Box for $200 on techronics.com, and it pounds.

 

if you are willing to spend a bit more than 300, you can get a JL 13W5

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs_pages.php?page_id=245

i have mine powered by a 500 w mono and it sounds great, and judging by the JL power range chart, the 350 would be great

 

I've got no dimming or anything @900W total. I think you'd have to go full retard on power to think about stuff like adding caps to the system.

 

The reason I asked about a capacitor is because I have a lightening audio 1 fared capacitor already and wasn't sure if I should install it any ways? Also if I install the capacitor since I think I'm pretty positive on running two amp where do I mount the capacitor, from the power wire before both amps or just before the supwoofer amp as the is what will be drawing the most power?

The subwoofers I have are 2 12" Solo Barics powered by a Memphis audio amp and slam ridiculously hard, probably too hard for my access cab Tacoma! The price is right as it's not going to cost me anything since I have them already. I am almost done purchasing everything for my audio install and am just waiting for my 100 square feet of Fatmat to arrive. Also since I'll be running two amps I think I'm going to purchase a distribution block for the second amp.

Today I purchased a yellow top optima battery as I read there very good for stereos and just wanted your opinion on them. I'm almost getting overwhelmed with this stereo project because it started out as just buying a double din HU and now has turned into a full on stereo install and Im hoping I'm not over my head!

I'll try to take some pictures of everything I have so far and update everyone with pictures as I install. Not sure how long this will take me but since I'll be tearing out all the interior it could be awhile. In the morning I might try to put together a list of everything I have so far and how much I spent and get your guys opinions. Thanks again for the replies!

 

dont use the cap, sell it and be glad its gone. its just one more thing for your charging system to charge, putting more strain on electrical.

yellow top is a decent battery, research the 'big three' and do that.

 

A capacitor is nothing more than a battery, its simply capable of discharging faster. Run your stereo at full volume and it will eventually discharge and put you right back in the same situation.

As for the Optima, I would dispute Optimas are good batteries, but if you look at the specs compared to the stock toyota battery, you might be disappointed. IMO the only advantage of an Optima is that its spillproof. I'm not buying another.

Class D amplifiers and you should have no issues with lights dimming, but if you are, check all your wiring and make sure you have solid connections, especially grounds.

 

Everything you see here in the pictures below were bought used from ALSI a member here on Tacoma World. Doing business with him was very good and everything was as he stated in his for sale thread but I have still yet checked to see if everything's working so I still am a little nervous as this is used. He stated everything is in working order so I took his word.

1. Sony XNV-660BT
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2. Complete "Plug and play harness" (No splicing required) including steering ASWC steering wheel controls. Soldered connections.
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3. Tomtom navigation module, GPS antenna, mic for hands free calling (via BT)
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4. Double DIN housing (METRA)
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6. Kenwood XR-5S eXcelon 5 Channel 1200W Digital Amp mounted on a Mr. Marv amp rack. I also mounted the crossovers for the HAT Clarus speakers.

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7. Hybrid Audio Technologies (HAT) Clarus and Imagine series speakers. Mounted on Mr. Marv speaker rings. They sound amazing and fit perfectly!

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The pictures in the attachment are some other items I have. The two 12" Solo Barics are L7's and hit very hard. The amp is a Memphis Car Audio 16-ST1000D amp and its power ratings for this amp are listed as 300 watts into 4 ohms, 600 watts into 2 ohms, and 1100 watts into 1 Ohm. Car Sound.com measured 791 W into 2 ohms and 997 W into 1 ohm with a 14-volt supply so I think its a good match.

I purchased the Kicker wiring through Sonic Electronics and shipping was very fast so A+ rating for them. Like I said earlier the only thing I'm waiting on to get this project started is the Fatmat which I purchased off Ebay. As far as cost goes this is what I've spend:

From ALSI for $950 shipped which included:
1. Sony XNV-660BT with
-ASWC steering wheel control
-Tom-tom Navigation Module
-GPS Antenna
-Bluetooth Mic
-Instruction manuals
-Plug and Play harnesses
2. METRA Double Din Housing
3. Kenwood XR-5S eXeclon 5 Channel 1200 Watt Amp
4. Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus C61-2
5. Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine I61-2
6. Mr. Marv Speaker Adapters for speakers

Kicker Amp Wiring Kit from Sonic Electronics for $109.98 shipped:
1. CK ZCK44 4 Channel 4AWG Kit Rated for 1000 Watts
2. Z2 Z125 2 Channel 5 Meter RCA's

100 Square feet Fatmat Sound Deadener from Ebay for $124.99 shipped.

Subwoofer and Amp I already had so no cost for that

I'm sure I'll need a few things here and there as I go.

Grand Total: $1,184.97

I think so far that's a good deal what do you guys think?

 

they act like a battery, have a much lower internal resistance, but work no where near as good as adding a second battery

dont forget yellow and blue tops are deep cycle batteries, and can take many recharges and be fine, this is the reason people like them for car audio is because they can play them dead and not worry about damaging the battery. quite usefull if you play music with the engine off

 

No need to preach to me about basic electronic components man. Its my job

You do bring a valid point about deep cycles. I don't worry about it as much because my prized JL amps shut off before the battery is completely dead

 

best buy installer?

 

Souns to me like you're a man with a plan. Install it and let us know how it goes.

 

FULL RETARD POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

haha I wish. Kinda wouldn't mind getting a second job in electronics. I'm an Avionics Tech. We're wiring nazis of sorts!

 

also the fact that tow package equipped trucks have 135 amp alt which should be fine charging 2 batteries, dont know too much about the specifics but i do know alot of people have done more with less. my limit would be 1000rms on basically stock electrical, unless its some really puny car with like a 60 amp alt and small batt.

 

Yep, without a doubt helps

 

Okay, I retract previous statements. I cranked my music up loud tonight on some skrillex and its dimming my headlights a bit. Nothing bad, but kinda sorta surprised. 250+300, 550 watts nominal. My grounds arent super great, but I know the amps would tell me if they weren't sufficient. I am still running on original battery though, 5 years and 90k miles later.

 

Kinda late but you could run an alpine type r 8 with that amp