What is the best way to bleed/ burp the cooling system?

I searched a little but couldn't really find any definite answers. I am concerned mainly because of this 50/50 super long life crap that I must use. Usually I just calculate the exact amount of 100% coolant and add it directly to the radiator and top off with water. By using 50/50, I now must ensure that the system is fully emptied including the heater core and hoses as well as the radiator and engine before I fill up. So the whole system will be empty when I reinsert the new thermostat causing a delay before the thing opens and circulates. So obviously I am concerned about steam pressure and the water pump.

So anyway, I was going to just leave the cap off the radiator and turn the engine on while adding fluid as it circulated and waiting for air to escape. Am I right?

 

fill up as normal. Then pull the truck to where the front is angled slightly higher than the back. Let it run while it's still cool and it will pull the mixture into it. Add more from there slowly and allow it to pull into the engine. Make sure you have the overfill at the minimum maker. Close the system off and drive normally. Get it to operational temperature and park at the same way. Let is cool and check it. You may need to do this last operational temperature/cool off a couple of times, but that will work all the air out of the system.

 

Thanks, I will just jack up the front a few inches. But what about the radiator cap with the engine on? Off or on when burping? I assuming off.

 

After the initial fill up with it running, keep it on during the run up to and cool down period. Once cool remove it. That will allow for the burping.

 

FWIW, I just did a full drain, flush and reservice of the cooling system in my 2010 V6.

The heater core will not drain well nor easily bleed air since the hoses run above the back end of the engine.

If I were to do this again, I would disconnect the coolant hose splice above the left cylinder head. Have the heat selected full on. This is possibly there just for draining the heater core. There is no mention to accomplish this in the online oem manual I referenced.

As for getting the air out, I would not bother with all the jack it up BS. Add coolant slowly, put the cap on the radiator, start the truck and idle for maybe 30 seconds, carefully squeeze the upper radiator hose to help purge the coolant. Give the throttle a couple of blips to maybe 3K, and then a steady 1800 > 2000 rpm for a few seconds. Let it idle for say 30 seconds, then shut it down. Make certain the temp is not warm enough to cause overflow at the radiator cap. Open the system and add more coolant. Service the catch tank to full. Check it after you drive a bit.

Be forewarned, the hose on top and drain plug on the bottom of the coolant reservoir is now leaking. Thought I read somewhere here that you might need to smooth the plastic mold line flash with a blade to stop the leak. FWIW, my coolant reservoir and fan shroud was covered in the white powder. So I suspect this may be the coolant stink since new that warranty could not find.

Best of luck with it.

PK

 

Thanks again.

 

Way too much to absorb. I'll save this for Saturday when I do the job.

 

I agree on the running the heater on full blast to make sure the system is fully bleed. I prefer my method since I live on a hill and don't have much issue with the adjustment and touch a warm rubber hose does not sound fun to my paws.

 

I drained and refilled my system, should be full be have no heat!

 

Vacuum

 

No need to get complicated.


Drain radiator from bottom drain. Drain passenger side block drain (as its easy to get to). Dont both with the driver side block drain because if you do the two previous mentioned you will get everything but MAYBE ~1/4 of a quart of coolant.

If you want to be nice. grab two gallons of distilled water park on a slight incline or jack the front of the truck up as high as you can. Fill and run the truck with the distilled water without the rad cap on and fill as needed till fully warm 10-15min. then drain as described above.

but for 99% of everyone here, do the first mentioned drain. Grab good zyrex asian toyota premix fluid and refill system while running jacked up on the front idiling till warm and coolant flowing. Shut off. top off radiator and then fill reservoir to full level and call it good.

 

What your plan was gonna be is fine. I just drain everything, fill it with the fresh stuff, set the temp dial to high ( I don't think you have to anymore but I still do it out of habit), I just run it at a fast idle with the cap off, top it up, fill the overflow a bit over max then cap everything up and let it cool. After that I'll top it up again and live my life. Usually in a day or two after i'll check the coolant level again and top up if required.

 

It's a 2011 post, hope its resolved, but good suggestions.

Big thing is simply checking the level a day after.

 

"Don't spoil it, just get in on it"

 

Japanese cars don't fight you putting coolant back in. Like Bishop mentioned just check it the day after and add as needed

Those vacuum fill kits were practically invented for VAG

 

don’t know what the repair manual says. Factory is probably vacuum fill. It’s faster and ensures no air. They have Toyota adapters.

OP can certainly get the special plug funnel, raise the front on ramps, run the engine with heater on, park on an incline and recheck day after cold.

I vacuum fill. I turn the knob, walk away do something else, and it is done. Level is right, no bubbles, done then and there. Have done both ways. It’s easier.

 

I bought vacuum for oddities, I never use it anymore. Even supras and Landcruiser's I just do a burp bleed with the nose in the air.

Rear engine/mid engine? Ya ill pull it out.

 

Shiiittttt……
I had a Nissan Altima kick my ass.
I had to park that POS on damn near a vertical incline before the air bled out.
I now own a vacuum filler.

But Tacoma Trucks, or Toyotas? Never an issue.

 

I've gotten to where I use the vacuum fill tool on alot of stuff as long as the cooling system isn't debilitated so I know there is no air in the system, it also gives the advantage of knowing the system is sealed before filling.

On my truck though I've changed the coolant twice and had no issues filling it through a spillproof funnel.