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Sub-woofer suggestions!

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 06taco, Sep 21, 2011.

  1. Sep 27, 2011 at 7:06 AM
    #41
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    2ndary air filter removed, flowmaster 40
    its nearly impossible to stop dimming with a half decent system, as long as i stay above 12 volts at red lights im good :p

    I will be running close to 2000 rms with one battery, unless i can jam 2 under the hood
     
  2. Sep 27, 2011 at 11:05 AM
    #42
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    nooooooooooo u need another battery man
     
  3. Sep 27, 2011 at 1:01 PM
    #43
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    2ndary air filter removed, flowmaster 40
    and why is that? i dont even have an amp in my truck yet. as long as you stay over at least 11 volts your not going to damage anything....sure you'll lose power...
     
  4. Sep 28, 2011 at 7:40 PM
    #44
    06taco

    06taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    South Jersey
    Vehicle:
    08 4x4 4-door TRD Sport
    *TRD Supercharger *3" OME lift kit *Dakar rear leaf springs *Total Chaos UCA *TJM T15 Plate Bumper *TJM Stealth 9000 winch
    I finally got my Fat Mat so I decided to start the install today. I started at about 10am and I just got done installing the Fat Mat so I decided to post some pictures and see what you guys think. 12 hours is way to long to be working on a truck, my back is killing me from being bent over! :eek:

    I started with the drivers front door and then proceeded to do the drivers side access door. By the time I got to the passengers front door I was much better at it and the passengers doors came out much better.

    I don't think I'm going to do the floor of the cab because after pulling out all the interior I realized the floor has a pretty thick sound deadener already on it. What's your guys thought on that, I've probably used about 70 square feet of Fat Mat and have about 30 square feet more. I'm pretty much over installing the Fat Mat but if everyone thinks I should do the floor I will.

    On another note I decided to run two power wires for both amps instead of putting in a distribution block. I have the materials to put two power wires in so it wont cost me any thing extra and that way I don't have to buy a distribution block. I've also decided to run a 1 fared capacitor for my sub woofer amp. I also bought a yellow top optima hoping to help out with the stereo.

    Stereo Install 002.jpg
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  5. Sep 29, 2011 at 7:52 PM
    #45
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Sick, I wanna do this. I just don't wanna rip my whole truck apart. My primary goal is the roof (hate it when it rains) and the doors. I don't think the back wall is a big deal to me... theres already plastics, and a set of thick seats back there to seal out exterior noise.

    What was your final cost for all of it?
     
  6. Sep 29, 2011 at 8:22 PM
    #46
    06taco

    06taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    08 4x4 4-door TRD Sport
    *TRD Supercharger *3" OME lift kit *Dakar rear leaf springs *Total Chaos UCA *TJM T15 Plate Bumper *TJM Stealth 9000 winch
    Ripping the truck apart was easy putting it all back together is gonna suck! Today I installed some audio but I'm still along ways away from being finished. The fat mat cost $125 shipped for 100 square feet and I only used about 70. I'm glad I took the time to install it but what a pain in the ass! Thanks for the compliments though.
     
  7. Sep 29, 2011 at 8:30 PM
    #47
    I Liquid I

    I Liquid I Well-Known Member

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    Puerto Rico
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    Too many mods to list
    Did it feel like good quality material? Was it thick?

    I am between Dynamat, which I can get locally at a lube me up first price... or Fatmat which would be kind of inexpensive, but I am scared it might not work.
     
  8. Sep 29, 2011 at 9:06 PM
    #48
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    Second skin FTW!!!!! Better than anything out there. Good price and it thick the sound deadner/Dampener. They have for every application in which type of noise or vibration you wanna get rid of. I have this in my ride and it got rid of everything. It almost like a luxury car with no noise what so ever.
     
  9. Sep 29, 2011 at 9:17 PM
    #49
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    when you get the amp installed
     
  10. Sep 29, 2011 at 9:20 PM
    #50
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    SwingCase, driver side. PVC Bike rack. Aftermarket stereo.

    you dont need full coverage for a CLD material. www.sounddeadenersolutions.com

    Check out Don's write-ups, even if you buy stuff elsewhere.

    FWIW, I have used stuff from several brands, including the different levels from Second Skin. I now buy stuff from SDS. Best stuff I have used.
     
  11. Sep 29, 2011 at 9:21 PM
    #51
    Warhorseforever

    Warhorseforever Will The Thrill

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    Kenwood KDC-348U HU Kicker DS65 Front Doors Only 2 Polk Audio MM840 Kenwood KAC 8105D for subs SuperCrewSound.com behind rear seat sub box
    Imo you should do the floor. At least do the areas where the wheel wells arch up into the cabs and around the wheels at least. Think of how much tire roar you're going to hear once you get rid of the wind noise coming from the doors.
     
  12. Sep 30, 2011 at 6:06 PM
    #52
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    2ndary air filter removed, flowmaster 40
    buying bigger amps is easier than sound deadning :p
     
  13. Sep 30, 2011 at 6:08 PM
    #53
    99TacoDriver

    99TacoDriver Well-Known Member

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    OME 885x/5100s/LR UCA/3 leaf AAL/275/70/17 Terra Trac X-Venture
    alpine type r, it will not disapoint
     
  14. Sep 30, 2011 at 7:40 PM
    #54
    06taco

    06taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    08 4x4 4-door TRD Sport
    *TRD Supercharger *3" OME lift kit *Dakar rear leaf springs *Total Chaos UCA *TJM T15 Plate Bumper *TJM Stealth 9000 winch
    So far I am very happy with fat mat and would recommend it, not to mention its much cheaper than dynamat.


    I think I'm going to wait to do the floor, I think between the sound deadener on the floor already and the carpet the noise well be minimal. If I decide to do it later it won't be to bad cause all I'll have to do is pull the seats and carpet out. After this project that will be a piece of cake. Not to mention with my new stereo I'll probably go deaf and won't even hear the tire noise!:eek:

    I thought I'd update the progress of the stereo install and how everything's going. I'm happy to say that on the first try of roughly installing all the stereo equipment everything is working. That never happens, usually I ended up having to trace wires and figure out why somethings not working.

    I bought most of the stereo equipment used therefore I was reluctant if everything would be working. I bought allot of the stereo equipment from ALSI a member on TW and I must say he was a great seller. Anytime I had a question he would get right back to me with a answer. If anyone ever want's to buy anything from him I can vouch for him as everything he stated was accurate and in working order.

    As I stated earlier these pictures are a rough install as I just wanted to make sure everything is in working order. Now that I know everything is working I'll unwire everything and start to re-install the interior and hide the wires. Running the wires through the rubber protector on the doors was tough but doable, you just have to have patience.

    My biggest worry is how I'm going to stuff all the wires behind the HU. I also have the steering wheel controller adapter so that makes even more wiring to stuff behind there. If anyone has any suggestions let me know. Remember these pictures look a mess but it all makes sense to me and will look much cleaner now that I know everything is working.

    rough wiring 001.jpg
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  15. Sep 30, 2011 at 8:08 PM
    #55
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

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    None yet
    I'm not sure about the length of your wires, but my steering wheel control is actually located on top of the glove box inner liner - held there by some velcro. That got some stuff out of the way. Then I also looped some string around the RCA cable bundle and ran the string out below the unit into the A/C control space. As I pushed the unit in, I pulled on the string and that gave me enough so the unit itself went in with no forcing; in contrast to my first attempt to push it in and it wouldn't even come close to going all the way in.
     

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