Show your 1911.

So I bought a Wilson combat extended slide stop and Wilson combat muzzle break for my kimber eclipse target 2... The muzzle break works perfect..And the upgraded slide stop fits in almost perfectly... But for some reason the upgraded slide stop is not allowing the slide to move??? So I put the factory one back in and worked no problem?? Can anyone give me some ideas???

 

The slide isn't moving in battery? Out of battery? With/without magazine in it? Empty or full mag?

I've installed a few of these in the past for some folks. Sometimes, to be completely honest, they just wouldn't work with some pistols no matter what I did. First thing was to clean up all the edges. It looks like BW tried to remove some of the casting flash, but caused alot of rubbing. Bringing down the edges, polishing and re-fitting solved most issues. Notching (ever-so-slightly) of the left grip was rare, but I had to do it with a few aftermarket, over-sized grips.

Can't say i've ever had a slide not move after installing, though.

 

Finally got the grips on my navy themed .45

 

So looking into my USGI 45 the slide is U.S.&S CO out of Swissvale PA. The frame has springfield proof marks but has Remington proof marks(FJA) on frame with an "I" or "1" on the trigger guard. Fja was the guy who put the weapon back into servive through remington in WW2. It has a small "p" next to the mag release and a "Y" on front trigger guard and a "T" next to the triger. I am Lost. I think its a rebult gun from the war, or is it?

 

Ask the guys in the forum on my sig. They will probably know, or know where to send you.

 

so i just finished my 1911... i bought a wilson combat Muzzle break and for something that is drop in... ITS FREAKIN GREAT... but it was a pain trying to take it apart... so i ordered a 2 piece guide rod.... its supposed to be easier upon takedown of the gun... but the 2 piece GR seems to have only one problem that you need an alan key to take down the gun... has anyone had any other issues with this i dont see this as being much of a problem to be honest...??? also how exactly does it make it easier to takedown.... i never really got a straight answer....

 

I never really found them to make it "easier" to do a tear down/field strip. Just one more little tiny tool [allen wrench] that'll get lost when you need it the most. Wilson's polymer take-down tools have never let me down, but I carry 2-3 just in-case.

Here's a thought, though . . . What kind of ammo are you putting through there? If you're shooting controlled ammo (your own re-loads/trusted re-loads,) you may want to consider just re-springing the pistol and using a stock GR assembly and bushing. My single stack was re-sprung when I built it, and I can field strip the thing with a nickel. Then again, you don't need to shoot a crazy power factor in single stack either.

If you're shooting white box ammo, or gun show reloads, you've probably got a couple 1000 rounds to put through it before it becomes a little easier to take down. Even then, i'd recommend the Wilson bushing wrench. I don't have anything against the 2 piece GR, but it is kinda gimmicky, unless you really have trouble with the 8th/10th round getting into the mag when re-arming, lol.

BTW, I guess you got your slide to move now with the extended slide stop on there?

 

Thanks for the info... Lol... Well I'm shooting factory ammo and wanted a little more of a controlled fire and the comp works pretty damn good to be honest.... So I wanted to give this a shot... When I bought it it says to buy the 2 piece or shortened the spring stop by 1/2" I think... My gunsmith recommend the 2 piece but the more and more I see it... The more negative things I see... And yea my slide stop works now lol..

 

my springfield 1911 A1 loaded

 

only 100 rounds old so far, shootin great.

 

Here are my two:

First up is my WWII vintage USGI Remington Rand M1911A1. Still tight and shoots like a beauty with minimal signs of wear and tear.



Next is my carry pistol - a Kimber Ultra Carry II (LG) (which has now become the Ultra CDP II (LG)). Note the shortened safety on the right side to accomodate the Laser Grips - good for me because I'm left-handed.

 

How does one tell if your 1911 can shoot +P rounds...

 

by checking the owners manual...or writing off to the company with your serial number etc

 

Lol that could work haha... I have to go and pull that outta the attic FAACKKK HAHA...

 

Got my Kimber Desert Warrior used from Cabela's for $600. Mostly holster wear and accurate as hell

 

Nice looking kimber man... I was looking at those for a second 1911 or the tactical entry... It kills me that they have so many damn models !!! Lol

 

there was a website i cant remember the name though but it pretty much had all the manuals for any gun in pdf uploaded there...

not sure if this is the same one but its got some manuals on it http://www.reloadbench.com/downloads/

 

I skipped through most of this thread, I saw one WWII 1911's, who's got the oldest 1911, that still fires?