Cheap/Free Mods

Thought I would share my Tie Down Mod. The end result is a tie down that adjusts or removes without any tools. Here is the final install pic.




I used some old stake pocket compression tie downs from my last truck.





























The tie downs consisted of a female threaded ring, a compression plate, rubber gasket, rubber compression block, threaded backing plate, all connected with a peice of threaded rod. These can be found at most auto parts stores fairly cheap.






I cut down the backing plate to 1 inch width to fit insiide the bed rails. I cut the threaded rod down to 1 1/2 inch. reassembled with out the rubber block and added a 7/8 inch diameter washer between the backing plate and the compression plate. The washer goes inside the rail with the backing plate and holds it into the notches when adjusting position.









put the compression plate on and thread on the hook. Tighten the hook and snug down. whenever you want a different location, you can loosen and slide them. here is a closeup of the final set up.

 

Nice! They would come in quite handy

 

I have a 2011 base model Tacoma with only the standard wipers. Does anyone know if the 08 switch (or any year) would work on my 2011 as well? Dealers are telling me I need to replace the wiper motor as well to make this work on my truck if I use a 2011 switch. I cannot imagine what would different about the motor that this would be necessary.

 

It's doable. You just need to replace the stalk on the steering column. Do a search and you will find a write-up or two on it. I did it on my 2010 base 4x4 last year. Great mod for under $150.

 

Hogwash on replacing the motor. That's pure bullsh*t!
I have an 2011 accesscab, base, 4cyl, 4x4. The part you want is [FONT=&quot] 8465202610. It's for a 2010 but is the same part for a 2011.
I ordered it from [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com,121.00 with shipping.[/FONT] Came in a few days, takes 15 minutes to install. Hardest part is removing the plastic steering wheel covers. Go slow and you'll be fine. This part works exactly as it is suppose to and matches your owners manual, operation, etc,
If you do not have cruise control, you can do that too for about the same amount of money. Let me know and I will give you the part number I used for cruise control.

 

It's hell to be stupid...but...

I've tried this and the only time my 'running lights' are on is when my parking light, on the stalk, is on, even when key is off. So I'd have to turn my stalk parking light on whenever I want this to work?? Not my idea of DRL ops.

I realize this post was in '07, and I have an '09 so there might have been some changes along the way...any hints?

I did find a light green wire in the under-hood fuse box that is only hot in the 'run' position. It goes to a 6-conductor connector (only 5 are used). This looks like a viable source/candidate to splice to the unused filaments in the turn signal lamps...wish I knew what it was for, hate to inadvertently compromise another circuit.


Thanks,
Whit

 

It is once you realize you can leave the stalk on parking/running lights and they will shut off after you turn the engine off once the driver's door is opened. I never move the stalk unless it's dark enough to require full headlights.

If you're testing this with the door open while getting in and out of the truck to do things, then you're not replicating what happens when you start the engine to drive off, and shut down when you get out.

Lights come on with the engine, shut off with the door opening as I exit the truck. No need to remember to do anything, thus "automatic" DRLs.

 

That's why I wired my fogs to the running lights without a switch.
My Auto OEM Fog Light Mod

 

I didn't because I've found times when I want the fogs off when the headlights are on. For example, sometimes in snow storms the fogs light up the falling snow right in front of the truck so much it kills my night vision and ability to see further. So I turn them off, use high beams, and see further ahead during the storm.

That explains why Toyota made them turn off with the high's at the factory.

Edit: and I did this mod as a means of getting back control over the operation of the lights so I could turn off/on as the situation required. Having them come on automatically, all the time with the rest of the light sort of defeats that purpose.

 

Thanks Jon. I just got the truck a couple weeks ago. Even though I 'thought' I read the book a couple times I must have missed the part where it is doing things behind my back.



Whit

 

You're welcome. It was nice to figured that out, and I found out by accident actually! Left the lights on going into a job site not thinking. Came back out, went to turn them on, realized they were already on and thought "oh shit!" Truck started, battery wasn't dead, so I turned it off, left the lights on, got out, and checked. Sure enough, they were off. Paid a little more attention when I repeated it, and noticed I could hear a slight click and see the dash lights go off as soon as I opened the door. Turning them back on after getting out resets it and leaves them on. So keep that in mind if you turn them on with the truck off for any reason. I don't believe it's documented anywhere anyway, so don't feel bad.

Now, my wife's Rav4 is different. They stay on for a certain amount of time (to help you see to get inside after dark I suppose) unless you click the lock button on the remote twice. Clicking it once leaves them on for the same amount of time. Why Toyota can't be consistent I will never know. Even the maintenance required reset procedure is different. Despite doing the same damn thing: telling you to change your oil at 5,000 miles. I had to google that after changing the oil when the procedure for the truck didn't work.

 

I have a 2011 with no DTRL at all. I did the mod that jumps the wire from the side markers. I actually used the blue plugs and put the wire through it so I didn't have to use silicone to seal it.
It makes the front blinker lights stay "on" but not ultra bright - so it's using the "low" element in the bulb. They only get brighter with the second "high" element when the turn signal is applied and they then blink (or alternate) from "low" to "high".

Here's a question:

When putting the DTRL's in using the relays as Toyota would do, you're obviously not using the third plug on the bulb and because of that, you're not using the "low" element of the bulb. Is this why some people have melting and bubbling lenses - because the relay turns the DTRL's on using the "high" element??
By jumping the wire, you're utilizing the "low" element (which otherwise will never be used), and even though the bulb gets hot, it will never get as hot as the "high" element being on all the time.
I liked doing it this way because I can turn all the lights off whenever I want, but with a factory relay, they'll always be on.
I also did the side/corner blinker mod as well. I like the idea that people more to the sides can see where you'll be turning...
Before I forget - anyone with a 2011 that wants to do the side/corner blinker mod should note: The wire colors to cut and splice are different than the write-up mentioned elswhere on here...

 

OK, got it done and works as described, thanks.
The only bad side-effect is that it dims the compass, temperature overhead indicator.
I'd like to find a way to have that happen only when the headlights are on.
Wonder where it gets this signal? ... anyone have a schematic?

Whit

 

I just wired up my Valentine. I removed the overhead panel by removing the screw under the glasses case and pulled down on the FRONT of the panel.
I used the light green for the switched +12V and the white/blk for ground.

I discovered the metal sub panel looks like it is actually glued to the outer roof skin with some sort of adhesive and provides an intermittent ground...don't depend on it for a ground return... use the white/blk wire.

Whit

 

This seems pretty easy and I'm not sure how one could screw it up, but it didn't work for me. I checked all my connections several times and even cut and stripped the wires to make sure I had a good connection. Luckily I was able to bend the pin back with out breaking it so I still have my fogs.

 

Check all the fuses, make sure you didn't blow one.

 

Okay... So I'm a total dumbass. I forgot to turn the key to ACC or on. Like I said I thought it was hard to screw this mod up, but somehow I managed to. lol.

 

Sorry, but I'm new at this one
Is this mod the exact same procedure for a 2010?


if so how do U:
remove the driver front sill plate, foot rest & kick panel?


Thanks

 

I did the short throw clutch mod today. At first I wasn't sure if it was worth the trouble, but I gotta say it's probably the best dollar (actually .80 cents) I've ever spent. Goes great with the short shifter. Now if anyone can tell me how to take care of the RPM hang....

 

just wanted more imfo on the helper springs do u put them in front of the rear wheels and which hole do you put the supplied rivet