Ignition - Clutch Relay switch requiring more travel

I have a 2010 4cyl manual Tacoma with 20,000 miles on it. It seems that I have to mash the clutch into the floor, pushing the back of the pedal well into the carpet to defeat the relay for the ignition. I am convinced it is getting harder and harder to push the clutch pedal in far enough to trip the switch. I've crawled in on the floor with a flashlight, but can't seem to find the switch point to see if I can adjust it. The clutch itself is working fine, no problems with shifting at normal engage depth, it is just the switch that relays to the ignition.

Anyone have problem with this switch requiring more and more depth? Anyone find an adjustment point. These are the kind of things I hate to take to a dealer.
Thanks

 

Move your seat forward!

 

I had to do some extensive searching to find this picture. The arrow points to the adjustment nut. Not sure how easy it is to access said adjuster but there is one up there. Just don't overdo it or you will be able to start without the clutch pushed in properly.

 

Adjusting the seat doesn't alter how far into the carpet I have to jam the pedal.
Thanks for the diagram, that gives me a starting point. I'm not worried about a vehicle that can be started with the clutch not pushed in, that would make it like the vehicles I drove a couple million miles in before these safety devices were mandated into vehicles.

 

That would also dissable your cruise control if overdone.

 

Good call.

 

I think that nut is there to hold the switch in place.

 

Do you have all weather mats on the floor? I know mine like to slide forward and its impossible to start my truck when it happens

 

I have the same issue on my 2.7 Prerunner. I have the stock carpeted mats. I will look at mine using the diagram & not go too far adjusting the nut. Thanks for posting the digram

 

Always happy to help out.

 

Also, I'd check to see if your tab on the pedal is bending..common problems on 1st Gen Taco's and 2nd Gen 4runners.

 

I have the same issue with my 2009 company truck. It's also a Tacoma. I have looked under the dash and it does not appear that the switch is adjustable. I wrapped the plastic actuator that is part of the clutch pedal with duct tape to try and make it thicker and require less travel to push the switch. It's starting to need more travel again, I think the tape has compressed. It's irritating, and I have had my foot come up just enough to disengage the starter. Sometimes when I push it back down I will grind the starter.

If you are comfortable defeating that safety switch, it should be easy to do.

 

I believe the cruise has a seperate switch that is pressed in with the clutch pedal in the up position. My truck will not start until the clutch is all the way down, but a very light pressure on the clutch will disengage the cruise.

 

all you do is unplug the switch..lulz or tape the pin in..so contacts always touch.


4x4 ftw..clutch start cancel ftw.

 

I was having trouble with this too. Here's an alternate solution. The Clutch Start Switch energizes the Start Relay in the left engine compartment R/B just aft of the battery which allows +12 VDC to the starter motor. I removed that relay and jumpered pins 3 and 5 with a short wire with spade terminals. See the jumper in the picture. I should have taken a picture before relay removal. Anyway, this relay interlocks (disables) the starter +12 VDC from the ignition switch when the clutch is not fully depressed.

Also, the ECU will still only get +12 VDC when the clutch is fully depressed with the ignition switch in the start position. I don't know what the ECU does with this signal. My truck starts fine with the clutch pedal up.

This function is independent of the cruise control clutch switch.

 

Why would you be against taking it to the dealership? You bought a new vehicle with a warranty, let them fix it before rigging it with duct tape. You paid for the warranty, no harm in using it.

 

For what it's worth, I found a rubber grommet with the right sized hole in the back side to make a boot for the switch. That extended the switch length by about ¼". Everything is working fine now.

 

Glad to hear you got it working.

 

Easy solution to disable, for both Gen 1 and 2 - pull the plug on the switch and short the contacts on the wire. Done.

I simply took a loose "U" shaped, unused crimp terminal and slid it into the plug. Works perfectly. Now you don't need to press in your clutch to start the truck. I did this the first day I had both trucks.

 

Wonder what tinkering with it may have with getting it into 4 low.