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Stripped My Front Diff Drain Plug

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by georgeandkanoa, Oct 18, 2011.

  1. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:09 PM
    #1
    georgeandkanoa

    georgeandkanoa [OP] the point is simply this

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    bilstein5100's front tinted windows access cover pioneer stereo weathertechs grillcraft grill kc's behind cbi sliders
    friggin thing was so tight I couldn't budge it,and finally stripped it.
    any ideas if pumping the fluid out,and pumping new stuff in will be ok
    how often should it be changed anyway?
     
  2. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:16 PM
    #2
    georgeandkanoa

    georgeandkanoa [OP] the point is simply this

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    bilstein5100's front tinted windows access cover pioneer stereo weathertechs grillcraft grill kc's behind cbi sliders
    do you know if the gears in there turn all the time or just in 4WD,
    I did my transfer case and the oil was like new
     
  3. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:17 PM
    #3
    OffroadToy

    OffroadToy old, forgetful, and decomposing

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    Since I tow I changed the front/rear differential and transfer case fluids out at 15,000 miles...will probably go ever 20,000 after that.

    edit: If you don't do any towing I believe Toyota recommends every 30,000
     
  4. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:19 PM
    #4
    Sigi

    Sigi Well-Known Member

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    thats a good question cause i rarely ingage my 4x4..
     
  5. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:21 PM
    #5
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    every 30k at most. use air hammer to chisel the plug and itll twist out. happens all the time. next time before u take a wrench to it. tap on it with a hammer staright on. lil tech trick ;)
     
    trippen1999 and NM Lance like this.
  6. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:22 PM
    #6
    georgeandkanoa

    georgeandkanoa [OP] the point is simply this

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    fuuck,before i did it I read about tapping with a hammer,and I forgot to do that
     
  7. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:27 PM
    #7
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    front and rear diffs see more wear and tear on the fluid. tcase not so much... t case fluid is always better looking
     
  8. Oct 18, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #8
    georgeandkanoa

    georgeandkanoa [OP] the point is simply this

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    bilstein5100's front tinted windows access cover pioneer stereo weathertechs grillcraft grill kc's behind cbi sliders
    thanks
     
  9. Oct 24, 2011 at 10:37 PM
    #9
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    Try a Heli-Coil. You can find them at NAPA. The kit comes with a tap and coil insert tool. They come in all sizes but you might have to use an SAE size. The metric one have been pretty rare in my neck of the woods.

    http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil
     
  10. Oct 24, 2011 at 10:57 PM
    #10
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    were you using a 12pt socket?
     
  11. Oct 25, 2011 at 10:05 PM
    #11
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    I did the same thing to my drain plug on a tundra. First thing I did was buy a new one from toyota. Then I took a good heavy hammer and a new POS cheap ass 3/4" chisel and beat that nut off. I ahd the chisiel cut into the drain plug good enuf to stay in place. Held the chisel with some vice grips to avoid pounding my hand and waled away. Just make sure you beat the plug in the right direction. Next time be sure to use a 10mm hex to avoid stripping.
     
  12. Oct 25, 2011 at 10:10 PM
    #12
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    SAS, Locked front rear, Ufab sliders and bumpers, air compressor, 35" BFG KM2 on steelies and 36" TSLs
    that doesnt sound like somethin id go around bragging about :rofl:
     
  13. Oct 25, 2011 at 10:19 PM
    #13
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more

    It was liberating.
     
  14. Oct 25, 2011 at 11:33 PM
    #14
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    :jerkoff::jerkoff::rofl::rofl:
     
  15. Feb 26, 2012 at 1:48 PM
    #15
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    I was trying to change the fluid in my front diff today and couldn't get the drain bolt out. I didn't strip it yet, but it feels pretty damn close to stripping.

    I am going to hit it with a hammer and spray pb blaster on it everyday this week and hopefully give it another try next weekend.

    what a stupid idea to use hex bolts on the front diff. the rear diff and t case use 24mm bolts.. why can't the front diff use the same?
     
  16. Feb 26, 2012 at 3:56 PM
    #16
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    PB blaster or any lube won't do a thing for you. Make sure you're using a 10mm hex vs standard, and don't hit it with a hammer. Hit it with a hammer and chisel only if it strips, either way, it sounds like you should just buy a new drain plug to replace that one. Good luck.
     
    EdgemanVA and REDdawn6 like this.
  17. Feb 26, 2012 at 4:18 PM
    #17
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    use one of these........take it for a good drive first warm that bitch up
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Feb 4, 2016 at 6:18 AM
    #18
    Codycode45

    Codycode45 Member

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    My drain is a 12 and fill is a 10 my drain is pretty much stripped fucking thing is on there geuss ill try a chizle
     
  19. Feb 4, 2016 at 8:31 AM
    #19
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    mix up some ATF and acetone and soak it a couple times a day for like a week then try tightening before loosening. also you can try heating where it threads into with a map gas torch. if all else fails, try a chisel and hammer to spin it loose. or if you have a friend with a welder, weld a nut to the head of it
     
    Snow Doctor and REDdawn6 like this.
  20. Dec 1, 2016 at 2:10 PM
    #20
    IslandYotaBoy

    IslandYotaBoy Active Member

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    Well FML! I just stripped the front diff drain plug and yes I echo why the F did they put that hex bolt on and not the 24mm bolt they used for the tcase and rear diff Anyways what should I do get a chisel and hammer doesn't that work???
     

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