2nd gen double cab running a single 12" sub behind seat?stealth

I have a 2011 double cab taco.

I want to run a single 12" dayton audio HO and put it behind the rear seat. Looking around online I didn't find anything that was just a single 12" enclosure. Anyone doing this already? Any advice would be appreciated.

Is it documented already on the site what the available space behind the seats are once you take out the plastic and such? That would be helpful to have in advance if I need to fabricate something.

 

You're new here aren't you?

Before I do any work that you should have done yourself, please attempt a quick search using terms like "sub mounting depth" and "double cab mounting depth".

If you still can't find the answers.....then we'll talk

 

Check this out.

http://shop.*********.com/2005-2011-Tacoma-Subwoofer-Options_c8.htm

 

Yes I am as you can probably tell by my post count. I did do those searches and found some estimates but no exact measurements (someone posted that there is around 7" of space). I also found that the only premade option seems to be that ********* box which requires "flattening a bracket" (doesnt seem reversible, correct me if i am wrong) and another box from caraudiofactory which has only a 5" mounting depth and .55 cubic feet of airspace.

If anyone has done something custom with a single 12" stealth please let me know. If anyone has links to specific threads I missed in my searches that would also be appreciated.

Thanks

 

stay away from *********...great product but crappy customer service and you may or may not receive all of your order

 

Yes, you can fit it. The Dayton HO DVC 12 was my original plan.

Yes, you will have to flatten or cut some behind the seats on the brackets to get it in there.

It will be tight. You may need to remove the back of the rear seat, or something along those lines.

Taco Tunes makes a single 12 box, you can check that out.

Mrmumbles (IIRC) has a pair of 12s, Im sure he could helps as well.

Good luck

 

********* sucks. Bought all there speaker adapters, and none of my door panels would go back on. Had to have them all trimmed up for the door panels to go back on.

 

I only used the 12" sub box and it is solid....but I agree with you

 

See? Searching is quite effective on our forum because we have a ton of information. We've got quite a large group here and a ton of info. Welcome to the forum!

Mumbles moved the latch on the inside of the seats to the second section of holes on the bracket. He said this gives you an extra 1.5" or so. That's the way to go in my opinion. Do that first and then see what kind of space you need in addition to that. The box will likely have to be custom.

Marv is a good resource for that. If he's too busy or you can't get him let me know because I too build boxes and design boxes too. If you have plans all worked up with dimensions and such it will be cheaper than if you're asking me to design you a box from scratch.

The Dayton is a great sub. If you can fit it I say go for it. I have a Wholesale account with PE that i use for my business so in the event you need me to do a box I can do a full package (assuming you don't already have the sub).

 

Also, which Dayton HO 12? There is two versions. One has a higher FS and is sort of inefficient and the other has a higher FS and is far more efficient. I've not modeled either yet to see what the enclosure requirements are though.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-467
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-466

 

I have an old ED Nine.1 and I was going to go with the DVC version so I could run it at 2ohms.

However, WinISD models a sealed box for this driver as needing .862 ft^3 of space for a normal .71 Qtc. From what I've read on the forums, that size is unrealistic for a stealth install.

12" sub may be too ambitious all things considered. I dont want to have to cut my truck up or make any irreversible changes. I need to reconsider my options.

 

Did you model the 10" version in a ported box? That might be a better option. Better cone control and more output down low. It might come in around the same box size.

 

I spent a lot of time modeling those subs. IIRC, that thing is still pretty nice even down to about .65 cubes, which is 100% do-able with the DVC version.

If you can go across the whole back seat, you could port the thing. IIRC, it was a very usable response even down to .85 cubes, tuned around 30-31hz

The 10HO needs about .65-.7, and 28-32hz tuning.

I would have to be at home to go into specifics.

 

That sounds like a done deal to me.

I generally size people up in terms of what they want for audio (habit). If you're even asking about the Dayton or know about it and have a clue how to model subs then I'd guess that a single ported 10 in the same cabin space as you would be plenty. Unless you're a total bass head

PS: I have to do some modeling tonight so I'll check it out too and see if I can throw up some graphs.

 

I think I might jsut have to agree that a 10" vented may be more than enough for the taco. I definitely appreciate any graphs or modeling either of you have already done or can do. I'll also run the 10" dayton through WinISD again tomorrow and double check on the volume size and port for a vented box.

 

Is the Nine.1 stable at 1ohm? Can't find specs on their website.


*I just realized ED isn't selling amps anymore. I loved my Nine.5 till it kicked it. Matt actually let me borrow a 4 channel when mine bit the dust. Mir's is still going strong though!

 

Here's what I'm coming up with.
0.7 cubes tuned to 29hz.

Notes: It's only available in a single coil version and that's the 4ohm coil. 450 from that Nine.1 should be enough so I wouldn't worry about that. You wont run out of Xmax till about 25hz running full tilt with 450 watts. I would recommend a subsonic filter set there if you jam pretty hard but I doubt you'll need one.

The ports will be your worst enemy. I think you can get away with less than a 4" port but 3" is cutting it close. The other thing is that even with a 3" port it needs to be roughly 28". That's doable but it takes planning since you'll have to essentially wrap it around the motor of the sub.

 

Looks great, matches my stuff as well.

I think Chad got away with a smaller port, but thats another subject.

If you are putting this on the passenger side, you have about 32" to work with, so a port running the top of the box (shaped to the box, or round) would be long enough.

If not enough space up there, wrapping it is the only option.

 

Oh hell yeah. If you're doing this on the passenger side it's a cake walk. I was assuming this was to be done on the drivers side.

 

That response curve looks great! If I can find a way to make a box work back there I will go with this. I've yet to actually take out the plastic behind the seats and measure anything so I guess that's my next step.

Stylion, the nine.1 is rated 1ohm stable putting out 1200 watts.