1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

First Oil Change

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jmed99, Feb 9, 2009.

?

What's the Optimum Mileage to Change Your Oil For the First Time?

  1. 200 Miles

    1.8%
  2. 500 Miles

    11.9%
  3. 2,000 Miles

    28.1%
  4. 5,000 Miles

    51.8%
  5. 10,000

    0.7%
  6. Other...please specify

    5.7%
  1. Feb 10, 2009 at 11:03 AM
    #21
    RCBS

    RCBS Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2008
    Member:
    #5845
    Messages:
    2,990
    Gender:
    Male
    Harden your bark, there are storms on the horizon.
    Mobil does make 0w-20. i think my buddy got his at Walmart. he runs it in his Tundra.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2009 at 11:11 AM
    #22
    BUK 0H5

    BUK 0H5 Still For Sale

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2009
    Member:
    #13391
    Messages:
    279
    Gender:
    Male
    Queen Creek, AZ
    Vehicle:
    Silver 09 2.7L Manual AccessCab SR5 PreRunner
    Removed Mud Flaps, Suspension TSB, 5100's all around, JVC KW-AVX710 Head Unit with Metra surround.
    All I can find in the Walmarts out here is 0w-30 and they only sell it by the qt instead of in the big jugs. I've only check about 4 Walmarts though so I'll keep looking.
     
  3. Feb 10, 2009 at 2:02 PM
    #23
    BUK 0H5

    BUK 0H5 Still For Sale

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2009
    Member:
    #13391
    Messages:
    279
    Gender:
    Male
    Queen Creek, AZ
    Vehicle:
    Silver 09 2.7L Manual AccessCab SR5 PreRunner
    Removed Mud Flaps, Suspension TSB, 5100's all around, JVC KW-AVX710 Head Unit with Metra surround.
    Just got done changing my oil. Just a tick over 800 miles. Holy hell Toyota put that oil filter on tight. Had to go with 5W-20 and a Fram filter. Any one got a link to where I might be able to figure out what bigger filter would fit the 2.7L I have seen threads about the 4.0 but have yet to find a definite answer for the 2.7
     
  4. Feb 10, 2009 at 2:13 PM
    #24
    NAAC3TACO

    NAAC3TACO Middle aged member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2008
    Member:
    #8350
    Messages:
    8,059
    Gender:
    Male
    Just east of crazy, NV
    Vehicle:
    2014 SR5 DCLB 4x4
    Color matched door handles, Weathertech floor liners, bed mat, Durafit seat covers, tailgate clamp, 2016 TRD Sport 17" wheels with Yokohama Geolander AT tires , Toyota exhaust tip, Toyota/Yakima bike rail mount, Toyota wheel locks, Toyota hitch cover, Redline hood struts, unifilter on air pump.
    In most if not all aftermarket applications, both engines use the same filter. IMO, quality of the filter is more important than size. I use a K&N oil filter that filters down to 10 microns.
     
  5. Feb 10, 2009 at 2:21 PM
    #25
    BUK 0H5

    BUK 0H5 Still For Sale

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2009
    Member:
    #13391
    Messages:
    279
    Gender:
    Male
    Queen Creek, AZ
    Vehicle:
    Silver 09 2.7L Manual AccessCab SR5 PreRunner
    Removed Mud Flaps, Suspension TSB, 5100's all around, JVC KW-AVX710 Head Unit with Metra surround.
    Any idea what a Fram filters to?

    Plus larger filter = more surface area = better fltration as well.
     
  6. Feb 10, 2009 at 2:45 PM
    #26
    NAAC3TACO

    NAAC3TACO Middle aged member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2008
    Member:
    #8350
    Messages:
    8,059
    Gender:
    Male
    Just east of crazy, NV
    Vehicle:
    2014 SR5 DCLB 4x4
    Color matched door handles, Weathertech floor liners, bed mat, Durafit seat covers, tailgate clamp, 2016 TRD Sport 17" wheels with Yokohama Geolander AT tires , Toyota exhaust tip, Toyota/Yakima bike rail mount, Toyota wheel locks, Toyota hitch cover, Redline hood struts, unifilter on air pump.
    I'm not sure about Fram's filtration rating, but you are right about the size. If two filters are the same quality, you might as well use the one that is bigger. I don't know why Toyota doesn't put the large filter on both engines.
     
  7. Feb 10, 2009 at 6:29 PM
    #27
    Caddmannq

    Caddmannq MotoNerd

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2008
    Member:
    #8917
    Messages:
    748
    Gender:
    Male
    California
    Vehicle:
    2012 PreRunner TRD Sport DC LB
    Undercover toneau
    I'd beware of Fram filters. I've seen some examples that are very cheaply made.
     
  8. Feb 10, 2009 at 6:59 PM
    #28
    jmed99

    jmed99 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2009
    Member:
    #12708
    Messages:
    694
    Gender:
    Male
    SC
    Vehicle:
    09 DC PreRunner TRD OR
  9. Feb 11, 2009 at 9:51 AM
    #29
    4x4x4trd

    4x4x4trd My other ride weighs 200 tons

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Member:
    #4267
    Messages:
    1,167
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    08 White Access Cab TRD OR, Debadged
    AFE oil free drop in, Secondary removed, tint, front D-rings, Toyota bed mat, Undercover tonneau, TRD seat covers and floor mats, Pioneer speakers, Westin Platinum bars, Fumoto oil valve, short antena, Nifty Xtreme's, TSB leaf springs, Bilstein 5100's set at .85" in the front
    I'm just old school but I think I changed at 1200 miles as I was going on a trip. Oil was pretty dark but nothing on the drain plug.

    Went back with a Toyota D-3 filter and Castrol GTX 5-30. Changed again at 2900 after that trip pulling a trailer. Pretty dark again. Will go the full 5000 miles from now on.

    [​IMG]

    Also added the Fumoto drain valve to the pan on that first change and the oil changes are now under 10 minutes with no mess. :D

    http://www.fumotousa.com/
     
  10. Feb 11, 2009 at 4:05 PM
    #30
    jmed99

    jmed99 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2009
    Member:
    #12708
    Messages:
    694
    Gender:
    Male
    SC
    Vehicle:
    09 DC PreRunner TRD OR
    I just got it changed....it's at ~500 miles. I think I'll change it again at like 2000 miles.
     
  11. Feb 11, 2009 at 4:53 PM
    #31
    jmed99

    jmed99 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2009
    Member:
    #12708
    Messages:
    694
    Gender:
    Male
    SC
    Vehicle:
    09 DC PreRunner TRD OR
    I just got it back from the place I took it to for the oil change (wasn't the dealership). They suggested I not change it at 500 miles because they said it had a special "break in oil" in it and the synthetic wouldn't be as good for it in the beginning. Never heard of that before.

    I had them change it anyways.

    Any thoughts on the "break in oil"??? :eek:
     
  12. Feb 11, 2009 at 6:40 PM
    #32
    tacoholic

    tacoholic Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2009
    Member:
    #12480
    Messages:
    4,072
    Gender:
    Male
    East Bay, CA
    It's basically piss...it's oil but it doesn't lubricate as well so the engine parts can seat themselves properly and not have any problems later on. Changing it in 500 miles is better since that's about the break-in period for engines and if you are going to use the truck for anything heavy duty then it won't lubricate the engine enough to keep it cool. It won't exactly damage it but you might lose 10,000 miles when you hit that million mark. It's insignificant but helps to change ti sooner sometimes.
     
  13. Feb 14, 2009 at 9:01 AM
    #33
    Grover

    Grover Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2008
    Member:
    #10795
    Messages:
    31
    Gender:
    Male
    Findlay, Ohio
    Vehicle:
    09 Access Cab
    Using high quality (Pennzoil, Castrol, etc) dinosaur oil, I change at 3,000 - 6,000, 9,000, and 12,000. Then at 15,000 go to full synthetic and change every 5,000 miles. This lets the engine get fully broken in; the switch to synthetic comes at about the point break-in turns to wear. Then the synthetic virtually elimantes the wear.

    I've done this on at least a half-dozen vehicles I've bought new. All of them passed 160,000 miles with no oil-related engine problems ever and were all running strong when traded in. One dealer was amazed at how strong the 5.2L V8 in my Dakota ran with 165,000 miles.
     
  14. Feb 14, 2009 at 9:12 AM
    #34
    Dockhead

    Dockhead Formarly 08TRD4X4RadientRed

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2008
    Member:
    #9692
    Messages:
    172
    Gender:
    Male
    Chico, CA
    Vehicle:
    08 ACC 4X4 TRD OR
    TRD Seat covers, K&N Series 77 intake, TRD plate frames, iPod interface
    The dealership I bought my truck from said to wait at least 3000 miles, and I switched to Mobile 1 full syn. I don't think you have to wait to switch because the tundras and a few other toyotas come off the lot new with mobile 1 full syn. I was also told that you can switch back and forth if you don't like it.
     
  15. Feb 14, 2009 at 9:22 AM
    #35
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6497
    Messages:
    112,751,690
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    FlimFlubberJAM
    Tenoe, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2019 Rubicon 4 Door,
    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    The engines are "Broken in" at the factory. The engine breakin process is VERY critical to the longevity of the engine, and its a tedious precess. If left to the general public, most vehicles wouldnt last 20,000 miles. Change the oil whenever you want, and run whatever you want. Its not gonna hurt the engine. Most of the stuff you read about haveing to drive a certain way for a certain amount of miles is just so new vehicle buyers can get aclimated to the vehicle they are driveing. The manufactures put this in the manual as they do, instead of saying "Your a retard, so dont do something stupid, or drive like a nut, because this vehicle may handle differently as opposed to the one you tradded in". Every "NEW" engine has a precise break in procedure. Look at Motorcycles. The have the break in preocedure right on the tank so they dont get broken in impropperly. If you have ever built a Fresh engine, you know that the break in process is important, and time consuming. :)
     
  16. Feb 14, 2009 at 7:35 PM
    #36
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Member:
    #8614
    Messages:
    9,120
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    Vehicle:
    BSP '10 4x4 TRD Off-Road DC
    See build thread in signature
    You can go as long as you want on old dyno oil, and then switch to synthetic (though not recommended for really high millage). You just can't go the other way around. Most performance engine break ins are done with mineral at 5min, 10 min, 100mi, 500, 1500, 3k from there on.

    That wouldn't be needed on a stock taco. At all. I actually just followed the manual (correctly or incorrectly presuming toyota already did the initial break in)... my oil's was clean as a whistle on the 10k (first time I did it myself on this truck). And that was with dyno. Switched over to castrol gtx syntec this round with a k&n filter, I'll see how it goes at 15k-ish. On my 3000GT i used to do full synthetic every 1.5-3k. I was paranoid with the turbos lol. I did also redline it damn near every time I drove it :p
     
  17. May 3, 2009 at 10:34 PM
    #37
    Yota_dvl

    Yota_dvl Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Member:
    #16066
    Messages:
    361
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Central Utah
    Vehicle:
    03' Ext cab 4x4
    SAS KIT - trail-gear 5" lift alcan springs greasable shackels gears front 410 rear 411 Kicker subs 3,000 mile drive to Alaska, 3,000 back "Mod" rear diff breather
    I change it up once a month, or every 2000 miles what ever one comes 1st, also right before road trips, my buddy works at jiffy lube we "ACT" like we own the place ( i dont even work there) but i act as if i do to- they dont say shit to me at least? so i use there tools and shit to do every thing :D they only make sure I pay for what i throw into it :mad:
     
  18. May 4, 2009 at 3:57 PM
    #38
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    Member:
    #7173
    Messages:
    4,591
    New Jersey
    Vehicle:
    2008 2.7 Manual Trans Tacoma
    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    I'm old school. The service writer told me you don't have to do the first change at 500 any more, but even he would not wait for 5000, said 4000. I'd do exactly what you outlined. Cheap insurance if you ask me.



     
  19. May 6, 2009 at 3:39 PM
    #39
    AFStoney

    AFStoney Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2008
    Member:
    #8817
    Messages:
    9
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Vehicle:
    09 Black Sand Pearl TRD Off Road
    Why would Toyota recommend something that was not safe for the engine, especially if they are the ones that have to pay to have it fixed (warranty)? Why not just stick to what the owner's manual states? IMHO, you have a bunch of "weekend mechanics" on this board, each with their own "opinion" on what is "best" for the engine, but really, it's all mostly based on assumptions, with little to no fact. Don't you think Toyota, the number one automobile manufacturer in the world, and a company renowned for its high-mileage, long-lasting vehicles, puts just a little bit of research into these things before making the recommendations? Besides, do you think it really makes a difference for an engine that is supposed to last 300k miles +, if you conduct your first oil change at 2,500 or 5,000? I personally don't....but maybe I'm wrong, maybe there's someone on these boards who has had a Toyota engine fail because they waited the extra 2,500 miles to change the initial oil. Please correct me if I'm wrong, or way off base on this one...

    Anyway, I feel it really comes down to personal choice and is essentially just a "tuh-mey-toh" "tuh-mah-toh" sort of thing...shoot, change the oil every 5 miles if it makes you feel better, but I'll get off of my soapbox now ;-)
     
  20. May 6, 2009 at 4:10 PM
    #40
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2009
    Member:
    #15329
    Messages:
    5,851
    Gender:
    Male
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2015 DCSB OR 4x4
    Too few to list.

    I'm going with Chris on this one. Do you guys really think these engines or any engines leave the factory untested? About when to switch to synthetics.... You guys do know that most high performance vehicles like Corvettes, etc... come with synthetic from the factory right? Again, you can use whatever you want right now. No need to wait to switch.
     
To Top