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Homemade Crank Pulley Tool

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BadBrains, Feb 17, 2011.

Page 1 of 5
  1. Feb 17, 2011 at 2:31 PM
    #1
    BadBrains

    #1
    BadBrains [OP] Spreading the Aloha

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    '07 Tacoma TRD OR, '00 Integra GS-R, '75 C10
    King, TC +2"LT, 35's, Aluminum this and that.
    Here's the tool I made for around $20-$25 instead of purchasing the Schley SP 64400 for $60-$80.

    C-channel from the Depot, and 3/8" rod also from the Depot.

    I had to chase out the holes on my pulley due to rust, other than that it worked like a charm when I recently did my T-belt/Water-pump.


    P2170004_1024x768.jpg

    P2170003_1024x768.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2015
    BadBrains, Feb 17, 2011
    #1
  2. Feb 17, 2011 at 3:43 PM
    #2
    tacomaman06

    #2
    tacomaman06 Carolina Alliance: Enforcer

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    getting there....
    sweet. i made one as well......looks like the one from schley.......but the damn holes i drilled for pins didnt line up worth a shit. now..if i dont use it...i just lay a prybar against the frame with a socket on the crank nut and bump the engine over...breaks her loose real fast.:D
     
    tacomaman06, Feb 17, 2011
    #2
  3. Feb 17, 2011 at 3:48 PM
    #3
    steve o 77

    #3
    steve o 77 braaap

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    I made one as well, but out of scrap so it was free. I just welded two pieces of 1/4" flat stock together to make 1/2" thick steel, drilled holes in it for the drill bits, torched a big hole in the middle for the socket, and welded about 3' of 1/2" x 1" flat stock to that for a handle. Worked perfect.
     
    steve o 77, Feb 17, 2011
    #3
  4. Feb 17, 2011 at 3:49 PM
    #4
    BadBrains

    #4
    BadBrains [OP] Spreading the Aloha

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    King, TC +2"LT, 35's, Aluminum this and that.
    That's how I broke it loose as well. I made the tool at the end when I was ready to put everything back together.

    Stuck the tool on and rotated it until it stopped against the frame, then torqued the pulley bolt.
     
    BadBrains, Feb 17, 2011
    #4
  5. Feb 17, 2011 at 3:56 PM
    #5
    wired_af

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    wired_af Well-Known Member

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    I made one too for my 2nd gen. This is the aftermath from torquing to 204ftlbs.

    IMG_20101226_152135_bdf9d7072f158d0d382cfb07b5c9bda09dd23373.jpg

    Obviously, I should have used a stronger bolt :D
     
    wired_af, Feb 17, 2011
    #5
  6. Feb 17, 2011 at 4:10 PM
    #6
    steve o 77

    #6
    steve o 77 braaap

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    steve o 77, Feb 17, 2011
    #6
    Wulf and Brie like this.
  7. Feb 23, 2011 at 11:07 AM
    #7
    Willman

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    Willman Sierra Expeditions

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    Nice work!
     
    Willman, Feb 23, 2011
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  8. Mar 31, 2011 at 12:16 AM
    #8
    bwill808

    #8
    bwill808 Active Member

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    noticed ur in az or kailua????/?i just moved here from hawaii , i have no way to make a that tool , if ur near phenix if i could buy or borrow ,





     
    bwill808, Mar 31, 2011
    #8
  9. Apr 1, 2011 at 10:04 PM
    #9
    BadBrains

    #9
    BadBrains [OP] Spreading the Aloha

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    From Kailua, but live in Northern AZ now....however I'm currently out in CA for a couple more months.

    Hopefully someone from the Phoenix area will see this and hook you up/ help you out.
     
    BadBrains, Apr 1, 2011
    #9
  10. Nov 8, 2011 at 7:36 PM
    #10
    Gorillazrus

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    Gorillazrus To be continued...

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    Just me being lazy and I don't Wana crawl under my truck at the moment, but what is the length of the 3/8 rod from the base to the tip?
     
    Gorillazrus, Nov 8, 2011
    #10
  11. Nov 8, 2011 at 8:28 PM
    #11
    steve o 77

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    steve o 77 braaap

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    it doesn't matter, just make them around 4" to be safe.
     
    steve o 77, Nov 8, 2011
    #11
  12. Nov 8, 2011 at 9:18 PM
    #12
    Gorillazrus

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    Gorillazrus To be continued...

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    Ok thanks, haven't had a chance to look it over but wanted to start getting my metal together.
     
    Gorillazrus, Nov 8, 2011
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  13. Nov 8, 2011 at 9:19 PM
    #13
    steve o 77

    #13
    steve o 77 braaap

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    They just need to engage in the holes in the crank pulley, the one I made just uses drill bits stuck through holes in the tool.
     
    steve o 77, Nov 8, 2011
    #13
  14. Nov 8, 2011 at 9:30 PM
    #14
    Gorillazrus

    #14
    Gorillazrus To be continued...

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    Gotcha
     
    Gorillazrus, Nov 8, 2011
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  15. Nov 9, 2011 at 1:56 PM
    #15
    BadBrains

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    BadBrains [OP] Spreading the Aloha

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    I'd measure them for you but the tool I made is in storage.
     
    BadBrains, Nov 9, 2011
    #15
  16. Feb 14, 2012 at 7:27 PM
    #16
    Beluga

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    Beluga Member

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    Another technique that works is just screw in 2 bolts into the pulley at the same time so the pulley is level while the bolts push the pulley out as it hits the block. Pretty much the same way you take out rear drum cover with 2 bolts.
     
    Beluga, Feb 14, 2012
    #16
  17. Jun 27, 2012 at 10:38 AM
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    TallTacoma

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    TallTacoma Bear fvcker!

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    That's how I did it. It's amazing how much torque those starters are putting out.
     
    TallTacoma, Jun 27, 2012
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  18. Jun 27, 2012 at 9:32 PM
    #18
    The Raisin

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    The Raisin Well-Known Member

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    I've done my water pump and timing belt twice now, both times i removed the crank pulley bolt with a pneumatic impact gun. It came right off both times.
     
    The Raisin, Jun 27, 2012
    #18
  19. Jun 27, 2012 at 9:33 PM
    #19
    steve o 77

    #19
    steve o 77 braaap

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    pulled the radiator out too?
     
    steve o 77, Jun 27, 2012
    #19
  20. Jun 27, 2012 at 9:43 PM
    #20
    The Raisin

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    The Raisin Well-Known Member

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    Yes the radiator and the grill. So much easier to get it done that way. I just did the entire thing last Saturday, waterpump, t-belt and t-stat, pulleys and new t-belt tensioner as well. It took me and a buddy about 5 hours from start to finish.
     
    The Raisin, Jun 27, 2012
    #20
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