My attempt @ a 2 to 3 drop ... ... more or less...

so I buckled down and just went and bought the spacer kit Weazleburger was selling. 1" spacer with 1/8" washers (put those on the bottom where the bolt head is). Dropped the front 1" exactly (was @ 30 7/8, now @ 29 7/8). VERY easy to install (took me about 15 min.);

- loosen rim bolts
- take off rim
- with a 19mm socket - unbolt both spindle bolts (IT WILL NOT FALL ON YOU DO NOT WORRY) *NOTE: When I did the install, I DID NOT have to take off anything else, the rest is a matter of angling the spindle to the bolts.
- place one spacer in between spindle and arm, slide bolt into place. Keep a hold onto the bolt and angle the spindle to where the bolt fits back into place *NOTE: DO NOT tighten yet, only enough to where it will NOT fall out.
*NOTE: Spindle surprisingly moves VERY easily up/down as well as keeping a steady "enough" position for replacing the bolts.
- continue with the other side, then tighten bolt along with the last bolt on the other side of spindle.
- reinstall rim
- lower side

BOOM YOUR DONE!!!!!



- Info I gathered before install:

bolts are - 4.5" long for the passenger side, and 4 1/8" long for the driver side.

washers are - 1/8" thick, so to obtain a 1/4" more I would have to place in another set of 4 washers (also the washers imo, were a bit too large, could be a 3/4" BUT from what I have seen, the OD of a washer is about the same, the ones I have been looking at, it's just the ID of the washer that changes so i'm going to swap out the washers I have now for 5/8" washers which will fit nice and snug, no jiggling around).

 

pictures will come in soon, it's not much of a noticeable drop though imo. for me I still see it as the same, should be noticeable when I put in the 1" blocks. When I was looking at it from the street, I payed more attention to the frame, looks straight, no angle on it.

 

honestly low pro bumps + QA1s will help out a ton. I was going 100 mph + for an extended period of time with a moped in the back and didn't bottom out. (on a closed corse, of course )

 

I WISH I could get the QA1's!!!!! for now I'm going to save up for the lo pro bumps and new bags. Was looking at the front bump stop, I have some of the reg. lo pro bumps you can get @ like Pep Boys, would those fit for the front? Not sure what size bolt/threading it is, haven't attempted to take them off yet.

 

here's how she looks with the 1" front spacers (still trying to find the damn bolt that was used), and 4x4 leafs w/1" drop blocks.

 

I took out the OE bump stops since it kept donking them here and there, replaced them with some lo pro bump stops I had laying around. I want to swap out the front bumps too, they look like they are hitting a lot (just don't feel it as much as I do the back).

will be posting more pictures soon, trying to upload them to the server, damn phone connection is a POS.

 

1" blocks installed (used old set of 4" drop block U-Bolts, cut them down some).

 

XR springs and struts up front will help. i think the bumpstop is pressed on up front, not sure if there's a replacement that would be any better. plus, you might bottom out the strut if you go with a lower profile bump. just my two cents.

(JUST DJM ALREADY)

 

lol I know right? the cost has gone down some since I last saw it, have some air suspension parts laying around (enough to make a decent set-up), will be stopping @ 2.25 or so to 3.25/3.5'ish. from there it'll be planning out the air ride for this. Planned out my load leveling set-up (just need new bags and some copper tubing).

 

some pictures - 1" spacers installed only

 

more - choppin the old 4" drop block u-bolts for the 1" drop blocks.

 

front spacer kit - 1" front drop. not much camber (noticable) uca doesn't look too bad, but when I go one more 1", going to have to do the uca mod for sure.

 

x4 leaf spring pack and 1" drop blocks. you can see how the OE bump stop is already starting to hit the axle (before I swapped them out for the lo pro bump stops). It rides pretty squishy in the back, but soon will be adding in new rear shocks to hopefully soften up the ride in the back more. front seems fine, nothing I can feel/notice/etc.

 

overall drop look.

 

with the base models/5 lug tacomas, the uca is on the side of the frame, fairly low to where it's about in the middle of the side rail, on the 4x4 tacomas it's above the frame, just where the shock tower is. when you go lower, that uca will tilt up enough to create a nasty camber (on most older American vehicles, the uca mounts are behind the top shock mounting area which allows for camber adjustment, until a certain point that is, but it's enough to fix camber when your static dropped), which sucks because you can't shim out the uca any to adjust for the neg. camber, so the way to solve that is to move the uca up 1". All that you would need to do is drill in new holes 1" higher than the OE uca holes and reinstall, then align.

 

Wtf? This is in Montclair right? By the 24 hour fitness? that's the gym I go too lmao

 

LMAO!! this is where I get my hair cut sometimes (when I'm around the area).

 

Lmao, dude I live like 3 miles south by chino n I always go to that gym small world

 

lol, not really. it's common to drill holes into the frame. pretty much ALL of the load leveling systems out there you will need to do so. just have to make sure your not going beyond what the frame can handle or it will bend/twist on you.
True, but that is why you always measure twice and cut/drill once . Yup, not bend them out of the way (can't do that unless you like your frame cracking, rule when cutting into the frame, learned this the hard way, when cutting; NEVER leave a straight edge/90 degree cut. Reason being is that the frame, in time or could happen sooner than you think, will crack literally where that 90/straight cut is. It's happened several times with DIY baggers when cutting/trimming their spring pockets on trucks like S10's. So ALWAYS round out your edges, I like to use a Dremel or something like that since it's small and can get into the smaller areas an angle grinder can't), you will need to cut them off so that the grease zerk on the uca has clearance.

I'll get a shot of where to cut, it's nothing bad really, if you look at the previous pictures of the front drop, you can see that the way the uca's are actually installed are actually just holes drilled into a piece of metal with the same thickness of the frame as well as using the shock tower as part of the support with some kid of square nut for the uca bolts. hope this makes sense.

 

WTF??? I need to pry open my asian eyes more then lol, a homie of mine lives right off the Indian Hill exit (how I found that place). VERY small world