El Cheapo Heated Mirrors

anyone done this on a 1st gen?

 

i dont really see how it would be any different besides mirror style and type of switch. many people wire it different as well, so that's more or less up to you on how you want to wire it.

 

Also, the grip heaters are small enough to fit most mirrors. Something like 2"x3" I think. Good if you can't find pads for your specific mirror size, or don't want to cut one down.

 

A little late to the party, but I must add.

Use a relay, yes it's needed. Follow this diagram. Auto parts stores sell them for 5 bucks. Smaller MOSFET relays are available from Radio Shack type places, but you'll need to board mount them. The smaller relays are not really needed as there is plenty of room to zip-tie a regular relay to a wire bundle under the dash.
Use heat shrink tubing on the connectors or wrap individual connections neatly with electrical tape and you will be good to go.

As far as the door panels,kick panels, etc... The previous guidance will help you out.

 

Anyone tried these?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/UNIVERSAL-MI...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e683c0d15

They're mirror heater elements. Might be a good alternative at a bigger size then a grip heater and a cheaper than the Sienna glass.

Mirrors are on my to-do list. I might try this guy's heater pads, have to verify measurements though. I've already got the seat heaters, someone figure out how to do the steering wheel and shift knob!

Is it wrong that I've eyeballed my armrests and center console pad and thought... hmmm... a heater pad would fit under there.

 

Thats what I figured. That schematic is exactly what I am going to follow. Thank you very much for your help.

 

Here are the raw files. TW shrinks them a bit, but still viewable.

 

Hey Shawn (or anyone with more knowledge than me),

I have been following this (and the MUTH Install thread) to gain more knowledge to do the heated mirror mod using the Sienna mirrors with the Highlander switch. TONS of good info., diagrams etc. The circuit I will be using will consist of an

$8 Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack,2 Years Warranty

Add-A-Fuse in the dash fuse-block (either blank IGN power location, or tap into the ACC fuse since I did the 12v Always-On mod) to a relay, to the Highlander switch. I have (2) questions:

1. What relay should I use? Just a standard 5 PIN SPDT like

Nilight Automotive Relay Harness Set 5-Pin 30/40A 12V SPDT with Interlocking Relay Socket and Wiring Harness - 1 Pack

THIS and use a connector like

$7 Parts Express 330-075 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay

THIS? Is there a better option?

2. When connecting the Green "light wire" (terminal #1 -or- #2) to the Highlander switch, do I only connect the rheostat terminal (#2) or do I have to connect both #1 & #2 even if I only want dimmer control light identical to the other OEM switches? Can I just splice into one of the existing Green/White switch wires to control the lighting?

Thanks in advance to anyone that replies. This is my first "serious" electrical mod, and I want to insure I do correctly and safely. Any Help is greatly appreciated.

 

The relay you linked will work, as well as the socket. The socket is not really required as I just used regular female spade type connectors plugged them directly on the relay terminals and heat shrinked each one, but the socket is nice, espacially if you have have to order a relay anyways

With regards to the rehostat wiring, I used the green/greenwhite from a unused harness in one of the switch blanks. I don't really recall anymore, but I assume one wire is -ve and one +ve, so you will reguire both (i.e. green on term #1 and greenwhite on term #2).

Thanks to CntrboyinMT the rest of the wiring is easy if you follow his schematic.

Shawn

 

Thanks for the quick reply Shawn. Electrical work has always been daunting and intimidating to me, but with great write-ups like yours' and CntrboyinMT's it makes a lot more sense to me. I know the extra relay plug harness isn't required, but for $1, I figured why not? Same for the Highlander switch, I may have found one that includes the back plug harness connector with all pins installed for $50-$60, so I will go for that rather than using the .11" spades. Hopefully all goes well, I will try to make an install thread similar to this, but updated for the Sienna/Highlander Mod version.

 

Can't say more than the reply you have.

1. (Slightly more stern than Shawn, LoL) but, Use both Green/GreenWhite. Polarity doesn't matter. It's easy since they're right there together and it'll work great.

2. Ref: quote above- You'll want a switched power source. If you have done the Always-On mod, this is not the best choice to tap power from. If you shut the vehicle off, take out key, walk away and lock doors; the mirrors will still be on until the 15 mins have expired. Find a IGN switched source is best. But it's a personal call.

 

Thanks for the response. This project seems a lot less intimidating now, but then again, I haven't started yet. I can't wait to have heated mirrors, it's the one luxury add-on I wish Tacomas offered.

 

.

 

Does the switch need acc+ at Pin5 to work? Isn't it just providing the ground to the relay? Isn't the switch getting power for the led from Pin1 & Pin2? If so, your diagram would still work if you don't have pin5 going to acc+, so long as you still connect acc+ to 86 & 30. See pic to verify

Can someone who has done this by this diagram please disconnect pin5 from the switch and test to see if it still works.

 

I def believe it has a timer, no question... i'm just wondering if it's necessary to have the potential sitting at the switch like that

 

chaddawkins, the switch is wired properly.

1 and 2 are for the bulb inside the switch only (heated mirror image on switch). this allows the bulb to be on with the rest of the switches and dim with the factory dimmer. if i'm reading correctly, it sounds like you wanna run acc+ through pin 1 and 2. this is not a good idea because the switch can not handle the load from the acc lights. there's a thread here or on toyotanation where a member did this and it melted the switch. also, this would not run the bulb in the switch along with the rest of the bulbs/switches

3 is most likely (almost 100% positive) for the second bulb to light the rectangular part when the switch is "on"

4 and 5 are to signal on the relay on/off

 

I ordered my heated pads from ebay and my highlander switch yesterday! I am excited for heated mirrors, not having them is awful on frosty mornings.

To anyone that replaced the LED inside of the switch itself, where did you get it?

 

no, i don't want to run acc+ to pin1 or pin2; i'm curious how exactly the switch works and if it's possible for it to work as previous diagram shows minus acc+ to pin5
compare the diagrams and you'll more fully see what i'm talking about

 

ahh, alright. yes you would need it going to pin 5, otherwise you're not completing a "circuit". pins 3 and 4 are not connected. 4 and 5 are connected. the ground on 3 is not goin to transfer to 4 resulting in that "completed circuit" you're looking for. technically it's not ground at 4. it should be a power souce from the ignition. 4 and 5 are what activate the lights on and off.

 

i thought the switch, once pushed, only provided the groud... i guess it needs power to work the 15 minute timer... and pin1 and pin2 don't do anything for that, ONLY for led

thanks