subwoofers!

type r is more of an spl sub where as a type x is more of a sql sub...dont get me wrong i had 3 type x 12s in my first gen and it was hella loud...but if i were to ever put alpines in again i would definitely go with type r's

 

I'm running a 10 type r with a 500 watt amp in my DC right now, and that's plenty loud for me.

 

OP post picks and I hope your system turns out the way you want. Im sure it will hit well.

I remember now why I stay out of car audio talk. I guess I have been spoiled having a freind that owns a high end audio shop.

All I can say is that everyone likes a different sound, and there are so many factors more than the supposed size of your amp and size/ qnty of subs.

and i'm not hating I'm just stating my opinion.

 

true..but the numbers don't lie. 500w RMS for type R vs 1000w RMS for a Type X..

The Type X will play louder longer and sound cleaner then an R. Not that Rs are bad either, they are pretty nice subs really. Just wont really ever keep up with a Type X.

 

i love how people think the more they spend the better it will sound, in reality its 10% equipment and 90% install

 

true that I've figured that out through out the years of messing with my systems, I've never had someone else install my systems.
hears a motivation question, IF THE GUY YOUR GOING TO PAY CAN DO IT.......WHY CANT YOU......PRACTICE AND ENJOY. EDUCATE YOURSELF TO DO IT YOURSELF. the guy your going to pay had to start somewhere to he wasn't born with the skills he has to install a system..... plus its safer to do it your self, most audio shops just hurry and finish the job so they can get the next customer in there garage.

 

So much bad/wrong information in only 24 posts.

 

I hit 143dB with 2 12's and a 500watt amp... Its not underpowered with the right amp

 

sorry guys havent been on in a while. i got them and they sound great. not overkill.. lol the size is but sound fits right in with the kicker coaxials i have in the doors. i read somebody's comment about me just wanting bass and thats not true i have a full system. I will try to post pics asap.. my phone doesnt seem to wanna send pics so im trying to get my camera working.

 

That is exactly what I was thinking. I like that one of the first posts questions the price even though the OP didn't mention what amp he purchased or what kind of box. Prescience must be an awesome gift to have.

 

OK I finally quit being lazy.. Im going to attempt to post some pictures

 

Thread has squirrel aids....I don't know that we can cure the infection. I think we have to nuke the thread and move on to a new site.

I really don't know where to begin. I mean, I want to get on to the people who act like they know what they're talking about that don't have a freaking clue what the hell is going on. Not because I want to tear them a new asshole but because I don't want that misinformation infecting the people who will actually believe these people.

 

That's it....I'm emailing higher ups to become a mod. I need the ability to sterilize this section. It's getting out of hand around here.

 

Why do these types of threads always end up like this? Condescending and holier than thou.

 

It's because we see terrible information being thrown around. The OP (and others viewing the thread) came looking for CORRECT information to help them make an informed decision about what equipment to buy. If they see half the stuff in threads like this they'll be confused and possibly even buy terrible equipment. So yeah, it's a struggle to see that stuff happen.

And we don't want to be ass holes and go through and correct each post (nor do we likely have the time/patience to do so) but if that's what's required...here goes

You're right, numbers don't lie...so here's a few more. The Type X 10" subwoofer has an efficiency of 82db, that's very low. The Type R 12" sub has an efficiency of 85db, not bad. Lets say we fed both subs 500watts of power; which will play louder? The Type R will be louder because it's more efficient.
Next question, we feed the Type X 10" 1000watts and we feed the Type R 12" 500watts, which sub is louder? Trick question, the answer is they'd be the same volume! The Type R is 3db more efficient which means it needs HALF the power the Type X does to achieve the same output!

NEXT

If by underpowered you mean "not reaching it's full potential" then yes, that's true. If you mean that by somehow not running the sub at full power it will harm it you're dead wrong.

You think a 1000watt amp makes 1000watts ALL THE TIME? HELL NO! It only makes 1000watts when it's running full steam. As you rotate the volume knob clockwise (turning it up) guess what the amp does....IT MAKES MORE POWER! Low volume....small number of watts....high volume....high number of watts!

NEXT

No, you don't....there's no way that tiny amp you have pictured makes 4000watts RMS

Second paragraph: You're close to being right but not quite there. The power you need to send a speaker is only determined by how loud you want to get. A speaker doesn't NEED a certain amount of power to function...this is a fact

You're right about having extra power headroom, it's nice to make sure you don't clip the signal. However, if your sub can't handle that extra power and you choose to USE the extra power you WILL damage the sub. The idea is that you have extra power to avoid clipping and you don't use that extra power.




Sorry if I seem like an ass hat but I just don't want people to spend their hard earned money on the wrong equipment. This stuff is way too expensive to make poor decisions on.

 

video or it never happened

 

Ya, I gotta agree with Italyn, no way you've got 4000w. From how I was brought up installing, power output is simple math... wattage = current * voltage.

I pulled up your amp on Sonix's website... comes with an 80 amp fuse. Your truck (should) put out approx 14.4V running. 80amps * 14.4V = 1152 watts. Even if you ran at 160 amps going through that amplifier (which your fuse would blow after 5 secs by design) you're still only at 2300 watts. And at that pace, if you bypassed the fuse and the amplifier somehow managed to not fry itself out, your alternator would likely be toast too.... that is unless you've made a serious upgrade to that too.

I could totally be wrong about all this, but those were formulas on the MECP (Mobile Electronics Certification Program) that I took some 12 yrs ago, and I don't believe there's been some major overhaul to the the world of electricity that I've missed since then.


For me, when I'm looking around at gear, particularly in amplifiers, I'm looking for this:



http://www.ce.org/Standards/browseByCommittee_2648.asp

To me, a company that puts this on their box is saying what their amps really put out, not some convoluted advertising scheme to put the biggest number on their box they can possibly get away with...

Take Alpine'sMRX-M100 for example.... From right off the amp's main webpage:

Makes it really easy to compare to other amps, especially when they show the same testing method. Also, check the math from the wattage formula used earlier.... four 25a fuses on the amp, 14.4v at testing... 100A * 14.4v = 1440 watts. If the power rating is lower than what the formula shows, I'm likely to believe what the stated rating actually are.

Again, gotta agree with Italyn... none of us are trying to be jerks or anything, just that some of us cringe when we see people doing stuff out of misinformation and bad choices (even when it's from not knowing)