Need help matching an amp to a sub

I am looking at running a 10" shallow mount memphis subwoofer here pretty soon. I'm trying to take advantage of cyber monday . The subwoofer has daul 4ohm voice coils and is rated at 300w rms/600w peak. Here is the link for the sub... http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/subwoofers/memphis-reference-subwoofers/ It's the sub model 15-MR10D4

The question I have is which amplifier would work the best with the sub? I just don't know too much about them and I was wanting to try and max out the sub as much as possible. Here is the link for the amps that I would like to choose from...http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/amplifiers/class-d-mclass-amplifiers/ I was thinking that if it was possible to run in 2ohms, I would get the 16-MC1.500 to get close to the 300w RMS.

Any information would be awesome.

 

Bump it up to the top

 

You would want something that is 300w RMS @ 2 ohms and wire the dual voice coils(DVC) in parallel for a 2ohm load at the amp. How much are you looking to spend? That amp that you linked would be fine you just need to have it tuned on an O-scope so that you aren't turning it up too high and clipping the amp.
Wire it like so:http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutch...nter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

 

The wiring diagram is exactly what I was looking for as I have never ran anything below 4ohms. I don't really have much of a budget but I would like to maybe keep it around $300 for the amp. Is there a better amplifier that you or anyone else would suggest for that sub?

 

$300 will get you a very good amp. As I said that amp will do the job just fine I've heard Memphis audio stuff and haven't heard anything from them I didn't like. Personally I prefer JL Audio, Kicker, and Kenwood's amp; but keep in mind that a good PR team can sell the biggest pos around ex pyle, mtx, etc.

 

What if I ran this amp and bridged it?
It's model number is 16-MC2.100
http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/amplifiers/class-ab-mclass-amplifiers/

 

If u can. Get the speaker in dual 2 ohm and get the mc1.500 and run the 500 watts rms to it at 1 ohm. Just turn ur bass levels down and don't be stupid with it and u will never blow or ruin the sub. I would never unpower the sub though and put the 250 rms that the mc1.500 gives u at 2 ohms.

 

I'm pretty sure it only comes in single or dual 4 ohm

 

You can not bridge that amp with the ohm loads that the sub is capable of. The sub that you linked can only allow the amp to "see" either a 2 ohm load or an 8 ohm load. However if you had a 2ohm dvc, both vc's are hypothetically 2 ohms you could do that, but not the sub you have linked.

 

You can run that amp bridged if you get the single 4ohm sub rather than the dvc.

 

dont do that if you bridge a two channel amp the amp is running at half the impedance of your speaker being hooked up to it, that amp is not 1 ohm stable.

 

After trying to find an amp that would work perfect with that sub I started to look around and found something better for a little less money. What do you think about this

Here is the sub
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3SD210/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD210.html

Here is the amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PBR3001/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-PBR300X1.html

I will be wiring the sub parallel so that it would present a 1 ohm load so that it would work with the amp perfectly. One question I do have though... what is the difference between 1ohm, 2ohm, 4ohm and 8ohm??? Does it really make a difference on the speaker/amp???

 

Those will work perfectly together, again you will want to have it tuned by a shop on an O-scop(I'm assuming by you not knowing the differences of the ohms, which is perfectly fine, you don't have one). Ohms is the amount of resistance in the line. Imagine a water hose for a moment, you turn on the spigot with a hose attached, 0ohms is wide open no pressure on the hose, 1 ohm in a smaller hose making the water(wattage) flow a little slower, 2 ohms is squeezing the hose tighter and more resistance, 3 ohms even tighter and so on the higher the ohms the more resistance and the slower the volt move and more the volts lose power. If you put a sub with too low of a resistance(ohm load) then the watts will flow through too quickly and too high literally burning up the amp.
You will want to wire just like this:http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutch...subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg
Edit: Also the higher the ohm usually the higher the quality of sound but unless you're a complete bass head audiophile you won't notice the difference between the sq given in the ohm loads. The lower the ohms usually is less quality and more quantity of sound. Example most home stereo setups that run off of 110v ac electricty are higher ohms up to 16ohms, which is what my sub is in my house, for better quality it can sacrifice the extra power(Watts) to a higher ohm load for better quality because it has a lot of power coming in. Most cars cannot handle the high power needed to run higher ohms so you usually see 8ohms or lower in car audio.

 

So with all this being said, if I want better quaulity sound, I should choose the 2ohm amp/sub combo rather than the 1ohm pair? And after being hooked up I will have it tuned by an 0-scope at my local audio shop.

 

Are you getting one sub or two? If 2 then you need to get 2 4ohm versions of that sub to get a 1ohm load. And honestly you won't notice the difference in sound quality with a lower ohm rating.

 

I am only getting one 10" sub for the ********* single box...

Thanks for all your help... I'm ordering everything right now

 

At this point in the car audio game power is VERY cheap. While you likely would not notice the difference between the 1ohm and 2 ohm setups, it is probably not a bad idea to stick with a 2ohm sub.

There are plenty of affordable amps that could easily drive a shallow 10. MB Quart and Rockford both have dual 4ohm shallow tens that would work for you. Pair one of those subs with a mono amp running 300+RMS at 2ohms and you should be happy. Take your choice between Alpine, JL, Kicker, RF, Kewood, Pioneer, RE, etc. Each has an option that will cost under $200 and provide at least 300 RMS. For $300 you could buy your amp, sub and wiring kit, then all you would need is a box and, hopefully, some sound deadening.

 

Good, you won't be disappointed.

 

You might have to look around for quite a while to find an installer with a scope I've worked for 6 companies in 17 years as an install manager now I own my own shop and in all that time I am the only installer I have ever seen who owns a scope or an rta. One of my shops owned an rta but never a scope. While it is definitely the best way to set the amp up an experienced installer can do just fine tuning the amp just by listening to it.

 

I've always been told that it can't be done exactly by ear. When I installed my amp I downloaded a hertz generator and started at 20hz and worked my way up to 180(my high pass for the subs is at 120) turning it down every time I heard the subs bottoming out then I took it to a shop in the next town over who have a scope and had them do it they said I was clipping but not much.