Anyone into R/C?

What is it rated at? We've always ran 7-cell 8.4v(outlaw) class, until swapping to lipos.

 

Axial Wraith, SCX 10, Dingo

You can't go wrong with Axial

 

I've just got the basic AE SC10. Not sure what it's rated at, but a 7.2 2s lipo melted my connectors together...

 

Depends on what your esc is rated for. I did a quick google and the SC10 esc only goes up to 2s lipo and 7 cell NiMH. Any higher and you'll fry it.

 

pretty much anything is upgradable anymore, except toy store rc

 

As stated already, it all depends on your ESC. 2s seems to the be standard cap on factory electronics.

I went with the Axial SCX10 Honcho RTR - not my first R/C, but my first crawler.

I'll most likely be going with a brushless Slash or a brushless SC10 for a basher. I imagine I will feel the need for speed after using my SCX10 for a while.

I always recommend getting kits as your first R/C, just so it forces you to learn everything about them.

Fink

 

My Slash esc goes up to 3s

 

as mentioned, an Axial kit would be a good start...

not cheap, but not a huge money pit...

i have built 5 crawlers in the last 6 years, with my first one being a TLT kit, then from there, i went with all aftermarket chassis builds... only problem is those builds will run you close to $1,000 per truck when all is said and done...

for me, i find building a crawler very therapeutic and i build them slowly over time... one of my last crawlers took me over a year to build... when i did inventory on it afterwards, i discovered that i dropped just under $1,000 into it over the 16 month build...

im almost done with my current build, but i may tear it down and go with a slightly bigger scale build...

a great resource for involved RC Crawling is RCCrawler.com

you can find me there as "mikestoys"

you can also find regional crawling clubs if you want to take it a step further and do points competitions or just find others in your area to RC crawl with...

for those in So Cal, i am on socalrcrc.org as "mikestoys" as well...

 

That was prolly because your connectors are crap. Are they factory installed? Your connector was a little loose causing it not make up good, producing heat. Swap all your connectors with Deans (which I hate, let the flaming begin) PowerPoles (my favorites) I think Traxxas has some decent ones (I've never used them). I've always built my own packs/connectors until lipos came along and I change out the plugs on them, first thing.

 

I believe the new SC10's already come with Deans. I had PowerPoles in the past and they are too easy to disconnect. They would disconnect after jumps and bumps, it got annoying. I use Traxxas connectors now.

 

Realy, that's kinda weird, I've got, and still use some Power Poles that are older than YOU!!! And have never had one disconnect, period. These are so old that they are green and white, not red and black. Deans are good connectors, they suck to build, and suck to disconnect. Did not know what the SC10 came with, in my 26 yrs of RC cars, I've NEVER bought a RTR car.

 

I thought that was you! I've seen a bunch of your posts and maybe a build or two, I can't remember. I just reg'd up not too long ago.

Fink

 

Thanks guys for the beginner's advice. I'll make sure to check out RCCrawler.com and learn as much as I can. Been wanting to get into RC for a while.

 

Yea, I had bad luck with them. What drew me to them was that you didn't have to solder them. Maybe i'll give them another go on my next rc.

I agree about the Deans. They're a bitch to solder and disconnect!! lol They need to come out with a new design or something.

 

We must be talking about two different connectors, PowerPole/LiteSeeds do need soldered, before insertion into the plastic housing. If I wasn't on my iPad I'd post some pics, (they are on my laptop).

 

Just crimp and slide into the housing. You could solder if you want, but it's not necessary.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfeLuDF322g&feature=related

 

Never did any without breaking out the 100w iron, tin the wire, slide into female part, apply heat, solder until it takes. That way I can reheat and remove/reuse the parts. Used to use these on motor connections as well (brushed motors) now I use bullet connectors on my brushless motors, I still want to be able to remove motors with out breaking out an iron.

 

My SC10 came with tamiya connectors. The lipo and ESC had a DEANS to Tamiya adapter between them. Overall, I like the DEANS, seems to me much better than what I've got and easy to use. I'll most likely switch everything over.

 

I'll be converting my SCX10 over to Deans as well.

I was going to go the adapter route, but not only would that add to the wiring mess, it would also add four possible points of failure.

Fink

 

Tamiya connectors SUCK!!!! Worse connector out there, adaptors with them, even worse. Adapt some new ones.