camburg long travel install questions!!

okay so im working on taking everything off right now.

to get the LCAs off did you need to take off the steering rack to get the lca bolt out or is there something i dont know? (the bolt on the rear of the lca)

the camber bolt inside the bushing wont come out, do i just donkey hammer the shit out of it?

and theres 5 cracks in my coil bucket. figured id throw that out there. thats only on the passenger side too

 

I've never crawled under your year truck, do you have a picture of what you're dealing with on the LCA bolt?

And yes, you're going to need the BFH for a few things along the way.

 

ill try to get a picture up right now

 

You can take the LCA off without removing the steering rack.

EDIT: THE LCA are a bitch to take out. I remember when I was removing the LCA from the truck's frame I had to cut the LCA out because the bolt was seized inside of the bushing.

 

how? you cant get the bolt out

 

Is the bolt seized in the bushing?

 

you cant get the back bolt out because it hits the steering rack, and the front bolt is out but the hollow piece is stuck in there

 

hollow piece thats stuck.

other side of hollow piece thats stuck

 

and this is why i think i have to take the rack off?

 

some cracks too

 

You are going to possibly have to cut that piece out. You can try removing the steering rack, but I bet you are going to have to cut it out.

 

this is why the steeringrack needs to come off VVV

 

just disconnect the tie rod ends from the rack, you're going to have to take those off anyways

and holy shit on the cracked buckets. do not run the truck with out getting those fixed

 

Then go ahead and take the steering rack off. I am pretty sure the sleeve it seized inside of the frame though. As for your coil bucket you shoudl ask Adrian how he fixed his crack coil bucket.

 

There is an install Manual on the TC website, but it should be pretty similar

You really beat on this truck eh, Cracked C/O's is crazy, you could groove it, weld it together, then create a top & bottom ring/plate and sandwich it between the 2 plates, then it would be plenty strong.

And while you repairing that, install some UCA Shear Plates/Gussets

 

how?? can i disconnect it from inside the boot? cause the bolt would be hitting the boot when i take it out.

i wont my dads going to bring his welder home tomorrow and were gonna weld it..

thats the problem, the nut on the bottom facing up is stripped.

yeah i do beat on it way harder than anyone else i really know..

what do you mean? like cut out 2 circles in 1/4 inch and sandwhich it together when i put my shocks on?

and i was going to do the gussets, but im going to run 12 inch c/os off my engine cage in the future...

 

Yes, cut out 2 rings that fit around that top lip and with the holes drilled out, 1/4 might be a little excessive as it will set your shock that much lower on that side, may 3/16 for the top and 1/8 for the bottom, might even be enough. Def. Recommend getting some new Grade 8 hardware for the C/O top plate before install.

And well the UCA mount isn't going to move, so I'd still put those gussets on there.

 

the cracks are on both sides.. lol driver and passenger

and doing the sammich will only fix the cracks on the top, not the ones on the sides, especially the one on the inside corner.

dont you cut that whole part off and re make mounts for the uca?

 

Oh okay, well I still think 3/16 on top & bottom would be plenty on both sides.

Can you get a better picture of the side cracks can't really tell from the one you posted.

You don't have too no, you can just cut out the coil-bucket top ring (and then reinforce the mount) and then have the UCA in the same place. Check out Vitang's build thread too see what I'm talking about (2nd Gen but same idea)

 

how soon are you planning to run the 12's???