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How to identify what to cut (285s + lift)

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by SCFirefighter, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. Dec 15, 2011 at 5:55 PM
    #1
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

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    Title says it all. I put on new shoes but they do rub a little on full lock, and reverse. Since I can't be under the fender and drive it at the same time, how do I figure it out?
    I may be overcomplicating things.

    Also, how come driving backwards causes rubbing but the same stretch driving forward doesn't? I don't understand how driving backwards changes the geometry to cause rubbing.
     
  2. Dec 15, 2011 at 5:58 PM
    #2
    bjmoose

    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Turn to about 90% of the way to full lock and get out and look.

    Then turn it the other way.

    The places where it's really close, will rub.
     
  3. Dec 15, 2011 at 6:04 PM
    #3
    memario1214

    memario1214 Hotshot Offroad Moderator Vendor

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    Or you just find yourself a friend to look lol... bit rub marks will be there
     
  4. Dec 15, 2011 at 6:18 PM
    #4
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Step 1 is to find a location where you can flex the suspension. Or a forklift.

    Flex it out at 25%, 50, 75, and full lock in one direction. Check both sides for contact during each flex. Most common areas are fender flare, fender liner, cab mount, frame, UCA, LCA. Mark your areas for trimming.

    The metal stuff you can't really do anything about other than the cab mount. It can be chopped and plated. The frame and control arms are more complicated.

    The plastic stuff can be trimmed with dykes, a grinder with a cutting wheel, hell even cuts-all scissors. Once you expose the pinch weld, you may very well get contact there too. Best way to handle that is to beat it flat with a hammer....4lb. sledge or so seems to work pretty well.

    Repeat all this for steering in the other direction.

    Note that trimming the fender liner opens some pockets between the sheetmetal panels that the front tires will essentially throw dirt, rocks, mud, etc. into. Pay special attention to cleaning here when washing the truck after wheelin'. No sense in letting the crud build up in there.

    If you expose any metal during your trimming, be sure to re-seal it from the environment somehow (rattle can paint, RTV, whatever you like) to prevent rust.

    The rear doesn't steer, so that's a little easier. Just completely stuff each side and trim anything you're contacting.

    Questions welcome.
     
  5. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:31 PM
    #5
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

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    Thanks for the suggestions. Now can anyone shed some light on why driving in reverse on a straight causes rubbing while driving forward on the same stretch does not? Makes zero sense to me.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:41 PM
    #6
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

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    I wonder if it would be worth to push my adjustable toytec coilovers a little higher to avoid the rubbing.
    Maybe find the point where alignment becomes an issue and then go back a turn or so.
     
  7. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    #7
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    It's probably rubbing in both directions, but going in reverse the tire treads are catching an edge in the plastic/metal/etc. and making a much louder noise, making it more noticeable.

    Puts your CV boots at a little more risk, if that's a worry to you.

    Plus, that really won't help rubbing when the suspension articulates.
     
  8. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:46 PM
    #8
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

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    Good points. Thanks, again.
     
  9. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:49 PM
    #9
    bgsmith

    bgsmith Well-Known Member

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    I have 265/70 17 with 1.25" spacers, had tons of rubbing. Took my wheels off and went to town with a dremel, trimmed the exterior fenders plus took out most of the black lining. Took a 16 lbs sledge to the pinch weld and I am all set. Also set my 5100s to 1.75 to avoid can mount rub, still rubs slightly when flexed or wheel is cut 100%.

    Went wheeling last weekend with no real issues.
     
  10. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:51 PM
    #10
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    265/70s with lots of rubbing? Sounds like your wheels already had ideal backspacing, and they are being pushed out too far by using the 1.25" spacer.
     
  11. Dec 15, 2011 at 7:55 PM
    #11
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    x2.
     
  12. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:03 PM
    #12
    bgsmith

    bgsmith Well-Known Member

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    Slight wheel rub on the calipers, so rather than grind them down I got spacers.
     
  13. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:04 PM
    #13
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    Ah...you might want to try a thinner spacer. As thin as possible.
     
  14. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:06 PM
    #14
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Fixed that for ya.
     
  15. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:08 PM
    #15
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    I disagree, I personally would never remove any material from something that is there for my safety.
     
  16. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:09 PM
    #16
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Like your brake rotors that wear down as you use your brakes? Or your brake pads?

    Grinding the calipers involves knocking off the casted lettering on the outside of the caliper in most cases. It's not even structural.
     
  17. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:11 PM
    #17
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    Correct, I would never take a grinder to my rotors or to my brake pads either.

    Why not just buy the correct wheels that fit the truck?
     
  18. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:14 PM
    #18
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    No need - they're self grinding :laugh:

    Also a sensible solution, but he could grind the calipers without spending hundreds of dollars. And it wouldn't affect his safety one whit.
     
  19. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:16 PM
    #19
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't tell him not to do it, I said I would never personally do it. And you changed my quote to say I would...false advertising :D
     
  20. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:18 PM
    #20
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    I changed your quote to make you suggest to him he do it, not to make you say you would do it.

    You fibber! :p
     

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