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Step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by MonkeyProof, Dec 19, 2011.

Page 2 of 22
  1. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:22 PM
    #21
    MonkeyProof

    #21
    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    For someone who's attempting this for the first time a would say only a few hours. Im at the point where I can remove and install everything and back on the road in about an hours time:p
     
    MonkeyProof, Dec 20, 2011
    #21
  2. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:25 PM
    #22
    92LandCruiser

    #22
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    With air tools and the rest of the proper tools, and knowing what you're doing... not too long.

    I'd agree with an hour.
     
    92LandCruiser, Dec 20, 2011
    #22
  3. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:26 PM
    #23
    HBMurphy

    #23
    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    That site is so fucking annoying! Ad this, ad that, pop-up here, etc. I NEVER click on anything at that site including next page. Ooops, I lied, I click the close window button.

    /rant
     
    HBMurphy, Dec 20, 2011
    #23
  4. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:30 PM
    #24
    92LandCruiser

    #24
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Register and less ads. Or just don't click the link.
     
    92LandCruiser, Dec 20, 2011
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  5. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:30 PM
    #25
    MonkeyProof

    #25
    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    Agreed... back in the day that place was awesome for tech. But now I don't even go there anymore. Even with all of my pop up blockers and ad blockers I still get random stuff that gets through ...annoying!

    I am registerd over there...but I won't pay to be over there
     
    MonkeyProof, Dec 20, 2011
    #25
  6. Dec 20, 2011 at 3:43 PM
    #26
    92LandCruiser

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    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    92LandCruiser, Dec 20, 2011
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  7. Dec 20, 2011 at 4:04 PM
    #27
    MonkeyProof

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    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    MonkeyProof, Dec 20, 2011
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  8. Dec 20, 2011 at 4:39 PM
    #28
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Awesome completed write up. Nice!
     
    jandrews, Dec 20, 2011
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  9. Dec 20, 2011 at 5:16 PM
    #29
    MonkeyProof

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    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    thanks!

    it will be complete when i add the write up for installing the diff. :p
     
    MonkeyProof, Dec 20, 2011
    #29
  10. Dec 20, 2011 at 5:26 PM
    #30
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Step Last: Reverse order of all steps to reinstall diff :p
     
    jandrews, Dec 20, 2011
    #30
  11. Dec 20, 2011 at 9:05 PM
    #31
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    just something i did that i couldnt tell if you did.

    When i pull the axles out i support the brake drum so the axle doesnt rest on the seal... it may prevent having to do the job again if you spring a leak
     
    Yoytoda, Dec 20, 2011
    #31
  12. Dec 21, 2011 at 4:25 AM
    #32
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Preferred method, but if you're gentle it shouldn't bother the seals. Other option is to take the axles out of the housing entirely.
     
    jandrews, Dec 21, 2011
    #32
  13. Dec 21, 2011 at 8:33 AM
    #33
    HBMurphy

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    But to do that you have just added at least another hour or two to the job:

    Dismantle the brakes to get the parking brake cable out
    Disconnect the brake line (and now you have to bleed the brakes)

    If you have to do the rear brakes at the same time then fine, otherwise Tom's got some good tips! :)
     
    HBMurphy, Dec 21, 2011
    #33
  14. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:19 AM
    #34
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    i dont care how gentle you are if you plan on walking away for a few days. like if you dont have a third ready to go...

    leaving the axles sit on the seals would not be good. Better to just support them IMO
     
    Yoytoda, Dec 21, 2011
    #34
  15. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:43 AM
    #35
    bjmoose

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    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    I just slid the axles back into position, so they're resting on their installation lugs.

    Easier than finding a "just the right height" block or box.
     
    bjmoose, Dec 21, 2011
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    Biscuits likes this.
  16. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:49 AM
    #36
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    meh, i just used other jack stands...

    i have 4. two under the axle two under the brake drums
     
    Yoytoda, Dec 21, 2011
    #36
  17. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:57 AM
    #37
    MonkeyProof

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    MonkeyProof [OP] Power Top

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    bingo! as easy as that! :p

    i think i will go edit and add a note to do this step if the rear end is going to be a part for any amount of time.
     
    MonkeyProof, Dec 21, 2011
    #37
  18. Dec 21, 2011 at 10:00 AM
    #38
    HBMurphy

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    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    Good call but the temperatures where you live rubber bands are considered non-elastic!!! lol :) But really micro cracks are the things that propagate in to real cracks so any additional thoughtfulness into not stretching the seals is effort that is not wasted.

    Much like Tom's marking the mating points of the pinion flange to u-joint flange. Technically not required but marking and re-assembling in same position is a sign of a good mechanic.
     
    HBMurphy, Dec 21, 2011
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  19. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:29 PM
    #39
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Agreed, which is why it's not the "preferred method" ;)

    Also agreed.

    Also agreed, plus this gives you the benefit of not having to disconnect the brake lines.

    Nothing wrong with it, but you'll pardon me if I skip it on trail-fixes.
     
    jandrews, Dec 21, 2011
    #39
  20. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:08 PM
    #40
    Faryota

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    Faryota Well-Known Member

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    6" BDS lift in front, warn winch, AFE cold air intake & exhaust, Body Armor Rear bumper, Tuffy in bed storage box, DZ bed mat, ARB front bumper & Warn winch w/light kit, Husky floor mats, dash mat,
    Wow more then I would do! But a great how to!
     
    Faryota, Dec 21, 2011
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