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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:09 PM
    #7281
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    3" Eibach Coils, 3" AP Springs, AP 6" Shackles Toytec Diff drop, BAMF Sliders, Deck plate mod,Volt meter, Highbeam mod, PIAA fogs, 18" Magnaflow, LED dash swap, Color matched Satoshi Grille, Custom Rear Plate Bumper
    Yes, it holds the driveshaft where they meet. Take a look at the rubber bushing that surrounds the shaft. Check for play, grab and move/pull on the driveshaft and see if its sloppy. You could also jack up the back and get someone to listen closely as you slowly accelerate and decelerate.
     
  2. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:13 PM
    #7282
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Hmm, so the clutch affects it forsure?

    So when the clutch in engaged, you can hear it.
    When your in neutral you cant hear it.

    What about when your clutch is dissengaged?
     
  3. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:15 PM
    #7283
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    yea with the clutch engaged and decelerating i squeals bad, disengage to clutch and it goes away..

    None of this happens when im accelerating..
     
  4. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:18 PM
    #7284
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Yes, so when you put your clutch in, the drive shaft is disengaged from the engine. So less load. That would put less strain on the shaft, making it more quite. Correct?
     
  5. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:20 PM
    #7285
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Right..but its under load while accelerating and decelerating..so why would it only squeal when decelerating??
     
  6. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:22 PM
    #7286
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Because when you accelerate, your driveshaft gets forced to up. But when you decelerate your driveshaft goes down. Your carrier could be making that noise whenever the drivshaft gets forced down
     
  7. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:26 PM
    #7287
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    When my carrier bearing went (around Sept) i seem to remember it making noise whenever i was coasting. Sounded like it was rattling around in a way. But when i put load on it, it would stiffen up and sound fine.
     
  8. Dec 21, 2011 at 1:32 PM
    #7288
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Hmm okay. Well i will assume that that is the problem them!

    Thanks guys
     
  9. Dec 21, 2011 at 6:11 PM
    #7289
    Tacos Por Vida

    Tacos Por Vida Well-Known Member

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    3-inch revtek spacers 265/75 BFG AT Flowmaster exhaust K&N CAI 12'' Type R w/ 1000w amp pioneer cd deck tinted windows
    I've been thinking about using some bed liner for my truck. What are some good DIY brands?
     
  10. Dec 21, 2011 at 6:27 PM
    #7290
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    In a corn field, OH
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    if you have never greased the u joints i would be surprised if they weren't bad.

    there are grease zerks on them.
     
  11. Dec 21, 2011 at 6:49 PM
    #7291
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Smokin with a smarty.
    Raptor liner.
     
  12. Dec 21, 2011 at 7:30 PM
    #7292
    Tacos Por Vida

    Tacos Por Vida Well-Known Member

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    3-inch revtek spacers 265/75 BFG AT Flowmaster exhaust K&N CAI 12'' Type R w/ 1000w amp pioneer cd deck tinted windows
    Do they sell it at local auto parts stores?
     
  13. Dec 21, 2011 at 7:49 PM
    #7293
    mrp192

    mrp192 REALLY!!

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    Hood Strusts, remote Start, truck came with Leveling kit and wheels.
    Installed DDM TUNING HIDS. I'm happy with them so far. But I found it weird that non of the parts said DDM and I don't like the cheap ass harness and there was no mounting brackets for the ballasts. So I'll need to get a harness from the retrofit source.
     
  14. Dec 21, 2011 at 7:58 PM
    #7294
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    X2... forgot about that. theres points on all the connections of the driveshaft

    X2
     
  15. Dec 21, 2011 at 8:27 PM
    #7295
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Hope not, that would suck to replace i bet.

    Herculiner too. that is what I'm gonna get.
     
  16. Dec 21, 2011 at 8:28 PM
    #7296
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    not bad actually. WAYYY easier than a clutch lol.
     
  17. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:20 PM
    #7297
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Ăśber Posre

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    I've also heard good things about Raptor Liner. I don't think you can get it locally though....
     
  18. Dec 21, 2011 at 9:34 PM
    #7298
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    True i guess lol guess ill look up how much those cost..
     
  19. Dec 21, 2011 at 10:07 PM
    #7299
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Amazon, around $100 for a kit
     
  20. Dec 21, 2011 at 10:20 PM
    #7300
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Total Chaos Sprindle Gussets Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Haltech IC-7 Display with Mako Dash Insert Haltech Elite 2500 Standalone ECU Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/URD 2.2" Pulley Doug Thorley Headers Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit OEM ECU Delete Full A340F Trans Control with the Haltech 2500 ECU 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers with OEM Rotors & Pads Braided Steel Brake Lines Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio STI-CO Flex Whip VFH/UHF 1/4 Wave Antenna Midland MTX275 GMRS Radio w/Roof Mount Antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    U-joint maintenence is important if you wheel your truck. Take care of your u-joints and they will last a long time. Ignore them, let them dry out and they will fail at he worst time, out on the trail.

    Get yourself one of these:

    GreaseGun_1ecbc74a3cfd50648bb53c5b5ebcdf8f81591b6b.jpg

    And put one of these in it:

    3134AGSZ1CL_AA300__4c224bb87d55bd038eacadb68821e6709a9f65dd.jpg

    At a minimum, I grease my driveline fittings every oil change (~5K). Sometimes even more often, depending on abuse level. :D

    Pump grease into the fittings until you see/hear grease coming out of the bearing caps on the u-joints.
     

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