5 lugger bs thread

thanks for posting the pic Joel. Time to throw your sway bar in the scrap steel pile man...

 

i know but my brother uses my truck too and he likes turning corners fast so ill take it of when my brother gets his truck lol. how does yours handle without the sway bar?

 

I honestly think its kinda hard to notice with a-armed/steering rack equiped trucks. But i baught this truck without the sway bar so i can't comment on the difference. It handles good though.

 

oh thats right huh lol. and im sure you have higher spring rate and stiffer shocks than me

 

My front bilstein shocks that slide into the coil-over threaded sleave thingy are for a stock f-250. The stiffer valving for the bigger chasis really works well for handling without a sway bar and higher speed offroading.

 

WTF? 5 Lug/4 Cyl gets moved to the bottom?

Haters.

 

i thought those were the downey coilovers?

 

i know wtf?? haha they see we are getting famous around here so they moved us down

 

everything i have is from downey yes, they used a f250 shock for the taquito kit, slid a coil and threaded plastic sleeve over the shock and called it a coilover kit...

 

thats pretty sick haha have you cycled the front end to figure out travel numbers?

 

no i haven't. Just tried to flip my bj on the driver side back to the top of the spindle and it royaly fucked my camber to / \. I can't bring my upper a-arm back in toward the bucket as i re-located and re-welded my upper a arm support shaft to close to the bucket. I just put the bj back under the spindle as i need to drive it to work in the morning... Fuck. i put a lot of work into dialing this suspension in becasue the ball joint was on the wrong side of the spindle and now i have to reverse everything i've done.

At least i Got my starter re-built tonight.



Hasn't hesitated with starting yet...although it would only seem to hesitate to start when i was driving some chick around to properly kill a wee bit of pride.

 

It's got me all off. I keep clicking on "Wheels and Tires". I was trying to get in this thread and post, clicked on 3 different threads by accident before I finally got over here.

 

Real quick 5 lug question if anyone knows. I have a deal for some 5 lug wheels right now bu need to know what the lug spacing is for the Tacos. I have a 2012 5 lug. I am at work right now & can't get out to the truck to measure it up. ANYONE?????Help quick. Please

 

Bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5

 

Thanks Hypno

 

did you double shear the uca??

 

anyone got a good DIY for rotor and pad change for 2nd gen 5 lug.

 

I don't think there is one around. It's pretty simple though, I'll try to give a little synopsis.

-Raise/Support Truck.
-Remove Front Wheels.

-Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper body to the bracket. More than likely be 14mm bolts.
-Remove the caliper body. Might use a screwdriver to wiggle it loose.
-Remove old brake pads from caliper bracket. Pay attention to any special way they may be placed.
-On the backside of the rotor, there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Remove them, probably 17mm bolts.
-Remove caliper bracket.
-Rotor may or may not be free. Smack it with a hammer. Worst case, there are 2 little threaded holes around the lug holes, find a bolt that fits those and tighten bolts. Creates a jacking force to free the rotor from the hub.

-Get a Silicone based brake lube, NAPA, Sil-Glyde I think it's called.

-New Rotor: Completely clean new rotor, brake cleaner or soap and water.
-Install rotor
---**Tip: Use a lug nut threaded on the stud to hold the new rotor on the hub while assembling the rest of the system.
-Lube brake hardware and slide pins.
-Install caliper bracket, 2 bolts, probably 17mm.
-Install new brake pads.
-Use an actual brake piston tool, or a large pair of channel-locks and squeeze the piston back into it's bore until it's flush.
-Lubricate brake pads.
-Install caliper body to bracket with 2 14mm bolts (probably)

-Repeat for other side.

-Install wheels and tighten to 80-85 Ft Lbs.

-PUMP UP THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL IT'S HARD BEFORE YOU EVEN PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION.

-Test drive. Maybe 5-6 full stops from 30-35 MPH. Bed the brakes in.

I do no know torque value for the caliper bolts, either tighten at your own risk or look up specs.

Hope it helps!

 

Thank you

 

Tires, hmm.

Like my current tires, destination A/T's. But when it comes time to get new ones or I got enough money saved up, I want something a little more aggressive, but not into the M/T range.

I like the design and aggressiveness of the DuraTrac, plus the better winter/wet handling. I've also ridden in a Tacoma with them and they performed well. That said, I am really anti-goodyear tires. Sidewall issues, balance and roundness issues.

Been a little hard to find a tire that compares to it. I did find a Cooper tire. Coooper Discoverer S/T Maxx. The sizes at this point are very limited and there is NOTHING in a 15" tire and what is made is E rated.


Any suggestions?