Ask a Plumber.

I'm putting in a new toilet downstairs and the toilet that was there before was raised off the floor with a 1/2 plywood around the bottom. So i didn't like that so i cut off the abs flange and sewer pipe flush with the floating floor and i bought a inside flange. Now the wife wants cushion floor down there so that means i got to cut the sewer pipe again another 1/2 and cut more of the flange off in order to fit. Then i will only be left with a half inch to glue the inside flange to 3" elbow. Will this be enough for the flange to glue to? or should i get some half inch plywood and build up the whole floor level with pipe down there now?

 

its not too bad only about $250/275 for tank and bowl

 

I've done ones as simple as thermostats / zone valves with a domestic HWT for the heat source ( my house ) to Tekmar thermostats that talk to a central controller and outside air temperature sensor with geothermal heat pumps as the heat source .

I like simple myself .

 

Not that loud if you close the door. I'm still not sure my wife takes shits!
Not bad on water, it uses 1.6 gallons.
I got mine for free, new they run $300 ish, Totos can run double that very easily.

 

Yeah I'd say 80% of homes with hydronic heat just use the simple gold thermostat that rotates with the mercury in it. (lot of old houses up here)
But then 80% of all homes up here use FAUs.

 

FAU ? Forced Air ?

I think with the hydronic systems , a simple set up that uses a slab sensor and not an air sensing thermostat is best . In a smaller application , the domestic HWT heat source is a cheaper alternative to a dedicated boiler .

 

Maybe this is trivial, but I don't have any expereince with it. How hard is it to replace my sink garbage disposal? I have a Badger model and after 8 years it is leaking/damged on the bottom. On another note, is it costly to have a professional come in and do the work? Any advice appreciated.

 

Is it hard wired or plug in? Be sure to kill the correct breaker if hard wired. As far as difficulty, it really depends on what tools you have and how handy you are. I do a ton of "my husband tried to change it" service calls.
Note* There is a small knockout plug in the dishwasher attachment tube (barbed 3/4" tube that sticks out of the side). Be sure to knock that out.

 

Yes forced air. But none of the houses up here are poured on a slab. They all have crawl spaces. I agree that hydronics are cheaper. But they can be a pain to work on. Can't tell you how many times a rodent has chewed thru pex and created a leak.

 

1 1/2" of concrete over framing is how it is done here . The pex is in the concrete , and you get the benefit of the thermal mass to store the heat .

Hydronic in joist bays is a crappy system .

 

Yes yes it is. Especially when drafts can come from all over the place

 

Thanks, I just looked adn it is plug-in. I think I may try and do this myself, have a decent amount of quality tools. I may be posting tomorrow for more help though lol.

 

Disposals are a sintch. Especially if there's a flange that gos thru the sink. Looks like this

You can screw the new disposal right on without having to break the seal from the top of the sink to bottom.

 

FYI, an improperly used garbage disposal is one of the worst things for your kitchen drain line. You create a sludge that lines the piping like a clogged artery. Do you compost? Clean of your plates before washing. I don't care what the box says, throw as little down the disposal as possible. I hate snaking that black stinky sludge. Lot's of clean up on my end!

 

Nice, it has that too! Thanks for the help man. I have never been one to do things myself but I get a great deal of satisfaction out of it when I do. I feel really good about it now, although it will be embarrassing if I mess it up. Thanks for teh confidence, going to hit up Home Depot tonight for the new unit.

 

We have to add almost 25% to the septic field disposal area in our juristiction if a garbage disposal is on the house plans .

 

There's holes in the metal disposal flange to. You can stick a screwdriver in these holes and unscrew maybe 1/4-1/2 turn and the whole disposal should come down. I pointing to the whole where the screwdriver gos.


Assuming this is the kind of badger you have. A pictures worth a thousand words.

 

Ya, it is a brand name. Mine looks just like the above, I took a pic but can't seem to upload right now.

This forum is great, thanks a ton you guys for the advise and help.

 

Yeah it's a type of disposal. In-sink-erator badger 5s are the standard ones. 1/4 horse up to 1horse at least for residential. Commercial is a whole nother thing.

 

No problamo I kno how much of a rip off plumbers can be.