Wiring 12v Accessory Plug

So I have been combing over the forum threads and posts and trying to find some best possible wiring scenarios for an extra 12v DC charging plug I installed on the back of the center console for my 2009 double cab Tacoma (not sure if this information will help).

Where I'm unclear is whether I should run a direct 12 or 16g wire from the 12v DC plug to an add a fuse in the fuse block OR find the wires that run to the other 12v cigarette lighter and aux port and solder a short wire from the 12v DC plug to the the stock wires. I am unsure if soldering a connection to the original wires would overload the wire ampage and fuse in the block. I'm still a rookie so I could use quite a bit of explaining.

What is the best and cleanest way? Can i get by with soldering a connection to the original wire? If so, where can I locate this wire and what color is it?

 

Surely I'm not the only one who has thought of connecting an auxillery 12v DC plug to the original wires?

 

I think your best bet would be to run a 16g wire directly from your battery(with fuse of corse) to a 12v outlet. That way your not drawing power from the cigarette outlet. You could overload the cig outlet tapping in to it. Plus, it would be on all the time too.

 

Thanks, so what fuse on the acc box would I like it to? What would the fuse rating need to be?

 

what are your intentions with this plug. Just a power outlet for cell phone charging and such or more heavy application.

 

I just put 2 of these outlets on the back of my console so my kids could power up their DS's. I went straight from the battery with a 7amp fuse. Works great power all the time.

 

The plug will be used for charging cell phones (which I believe is small wattage) and for charging and using spotlights. Here are some pictures of what i did this afternoon as a try out. I spliced the positive wire to the white/black wire which is run to an open plug under the console (probably for the inverter) Do I need to splice both the light green and the white/black wires? I can always take it off and run the separate positive wire.



I grounded the negative wire (black) to a nut attached to the body (not sure if this worked). When I checked to see if the 12v plug was working, it was not.



For reference only, here is where i positioned the 12v DC plug and attached it with 5min epoxy.

 

I would do what 1BT did if your going to run stuff like a light.
Then if something goes wrong you won't take out other outlets

Don't tap into anything you don't know where it's from.

 

Thanks guys. I'll take care of that tomorrow morning.

 

Those uninsulated crimps at the same length are a short waiting to happen.

 

Yeah, They have a clear plastic insulation cover around them which you probably can't see. I shorted out a couple of times when i first installed it (didn't get the covers on fast enough) and there went two fuses. Made sure i separated them and put covers on, then I wrapped each in electrical tape. The connection crimps are for if I need to remove the console again.

As for the project, I finished yesterday. It looks good. I did what you all said and ran a separate wire under the carpet below the drivers seat and along the stock wires under the door seal panel and up to the acc fuse block under the dash with an add a fuse. It had a stock 15amp fuse in the place for the 12v plugs according to the book. I put in a 30 amp fuse, do ya'll think this will be ok?

 

Put the 15 back in it. Put like a 5 or 7.5 in the add a fuse to that new outlet.

 

Well Gentlemen, I seem to have a problem and I could sure use your assistance with figuring it out.

Since wiring up the 12v outlet, and changing the fuses back to a 15 with an 7.5 add a fuse, my truck seems to not want to start. My only thought is the wiring with add-a-fuse link seems to be draining the battery, because the last two days I have got to had 4 jumps before and after work and made it home. I have a feeling the alternator is working properly since I made it to work and home after each jump and the battery did not go dead, nor did my lights go dim on the dash during the 25 minute commute.

Since this morning, I have pulled the add-a-fuse from its location and put in the stock 15 amp fuse after I jumped the battery off and started it. When I got to work I turned off the engine and was going to move my truck and it didn't start back.

The 12v has no power to it now, so what do you believe is causing the battery to drain and not recharge, assuming the alternator is working?

Pics of the wire for locations which are behind the dash under steering wheel (assuming I ran the wire to the right location).



I assume i got the right fuse location, the second fuse from the top right hand corner.(15 between 20 and 7.5)

 

NATHAN What are we going to do with you..lol

Ok.
We will get back to the acc outlets at another time.

All your taps and plugs are now removed.

You popped a few fuses.
did you disconnect the battery ???? Is it 100% dead ????? Like no lights, no nothing?????
Loose cable??
I assume no strange lights on.

ALL FUSES GOOD?????????????

If you have a volt meter you could make sure it's charging but i agree that she's more than likely ok.

It's possible your battery took a dump but check the above.

If you shut it off and try to start it right up and it just wont turn over i wouldn't be looking at a draw right now.

Are we having fun yet ????

It sucks when stuff like this happens. You just need to start from square one.

 

Well Mike, I can't thank you enough for the advise you give man. Tough lesson learned it looks like.

So, I took the battery to have it checked out. But before I did, the truck started up without a jump when I was getting ready to go. Not sure how as I needed one before I left work.

When I had the battery checked out, the battery read 12.75v which I was told was a dead battery. Assuming I dumped the battery, I bought a new one.

I guess I am back at square one.

 

I guess I'll tap into another blank fuse slot this time, after the battery cables are unattached?

 

Hey i try to help when i can NP
AHHHHH I hope your voltage figures are wrong because a battery 12.6V is relatively fully charged. however a load test is the only way to really check a battery. A good carbon pile old school tester is the best. These new fangled electronic ones i don't trust. If i have a doubt on a battery i grab the carbon pile.
BUY ANYWAY.
Ok you have a new battery.
Don't do anything for a week.
Make sure she starts and does what she's suppose to do.
THEN reinstall your outlets.
Make sure your center contact is positive and the case neg.
If you had access to a volt meter you could check for a parasitic draw now and do it all today and then double check the reading.
Just trying to eliminate a problem on the cheap before you go at it again.

Have fun...

 

Sounds like a new plan. So I had the battery checked our again on a load test this time. He marked it at 11v. Know where I can try to find a Carbon pile tester to triple check?

 

If he used a hand held load tester that is ok if he could get 50% of cold cranking amps. but 11 volts sounds way to hi to me.

But that's ok. Lets forget about that batt for now and just make sure everything is all set.
Carbon piles are not easily accessible now.

Make sure every light goes off inside the cab and double check your battery terminal clamps to make there tight.
Drive that puppy and see what happens.
I would still run straight to the battery and stay away from fuse box.
Run your ground to a good body ground and your power to the battery with your fuse. Then your not going to try and tap into something else. Power will be available all the time and for sure you will know the fuse if they go dead.