Anyone Else Running 0W-20 in Their 2.7?

I decided to try synthetic

$54 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil in my 4 banger for the winter. I am not one to declare "doing X improved my MPG 1.2mpg" because I normally see 1-2 MPG variation from tank to tank without changing anything. However, it does seem that so far my winter MPGs are a little higher than they were last year.

Anyways, I am considering sticking with the 0W-20 year round. Any reason I shouldn't? Theoretically, it should be the same viscosity at operating temperature as 5W-20 while staying thin when you really need it (i.e. starting), which helps even when the OAT is not freezing.

 

All I run in my 2.7 is 0W 20 Full Synthetic. The manual said that if you have to run 5W-20 replace it as soon as possible with the correct weight oil. I can't imagine running either one could hurt it,but as cold as we get, I like to run the 0W-20 if for nothing More than the cold starts.

 

Put 0w-20 Mobil 1 AFE in my 2.7L yesterday. Will be interested to see if it helps winter MPG's. So far no report from the "butt dyno"

 

Interesting, my manual says both 5W-20 and 0W-20 are approved.

 

The 2008 owners manual say 0 or 5w-20 also.

 

I was mistaken on where it was I had seen that. The Manual states either can be used, but the 0W20 is better for cold starts and milage. It was on the computer at the local Valvoline instant Oil Change that had a footnote about using only 0W-20 in the 2.7 motor. I believe it is a sales tactic to get people to upgrade to a synthetic oil,from conventional, as they do not have a 0W-20 in the conventional blends, but do carry a 5W20 in it.

 

0-20 mobil1 in mine

 

My 2011 5 Lugger is intended to be run with ow-20. It won't hurt to run it in the earlier 2nd gens, same engine.

 

x2. plus, on my oil cap, it says 5w20 or 0w20. the 2TR-FE hasn't changed since it's introduction.

oh and I run 0W20. seems to run better, especially since I do alot of short trips and city driving. haven't have any problem so far.

 

at 30,000 I just switched to 0-20W syn. Seems the truck likes the oil, seat of the pants power I guess...

 

I still have one more free oil change from the dealer, they use Valvoline All Climate 5W-20. If I switch to synthetic oil, I might as well use 0W-20 for better cold start protection. However, Toyota Albuquerque has never f##ked up any of my vehicles so I might keep going to them 'cause it's cheap and fast and I don't have to clean the stall like I have to do at the base auto hobby shop. Haven't decided yet.

 

Mine calls for 0w20 synthetic

 

The 2012 2.4 comes with 0w-20 Synthetic.

 

I have a hard time getting too worked up about it.
Toyota has started spec-ing the 20 weight oils in the US to meet CAFE standards, not because it is best for the engine. They pretty much don't care if your truck starts burning oil and generally going downhill at 100k, but I am planning on going much farther than that.
Everywhere else in the world with the same engine has the 30 wt oil spec'd.
As far as the 5W versus 0W, it really doesn't matter unless you are in super-cold weather since it is the cold-pour viscosity that is irrelevant a mile down the road.

All that being said, the base stocks on the 0W oils are superior to the 5W oils, but in any kind of normal oil change intervals aren't really going to make a huge difference.

 

so 2trs in hilux, hiace etc. spec run 5w30? like the 1GRs? and alot of other yotas? didn't know that.

 

Hmmm -- been using 5W-20. You guys convinced me to switch next change! thanks

 

Sure, but considering most wear occurs at start-up, I think it does matter.

 

Just finished a run of 5w-30 Quaker State AD conventional. I got some of the best mileage ever. On a ten tank run I averaged 26.0 MPG. But also consider that it was the fall, when temp are not cold and no A/C use. On my truck the A/C costs me 1.5 to 2 MPG. I went with Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 this time because I scored some for $4 a qt, and I like the fact that it is a synthetic, and there is no better time of year to use a 0w oil.

I have another change of it, and if it keeps my MPG up a bit, I will save it for the next mid-winter OCI.

 

Florida boy here with no significant cold starts. We do have a lot of heat issues. I run 5W-30 in mine for the additional heat protection. I may lose a mile or two but no breakdown even in the summer with the A/C running and pulling my boat.

I do change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles.

 

Gotta love those beautiful Snookies! I pretty much target Snook and Reds year round. Nothing like inticing a snook to come out of the mangrooves...
FTW, You will not have any issues with breakdown of any oil you change at 3000 miles. Many would agree the normal weather conditions of Florida (high heat pretty much year round) should be considered "severe duty maintenance". But with the tight tolerences of todays motors, running 5w-30 could be the reason you lose that mile or two. Its designed to run fully protected with 0W or 5W-20. Your making the motor work harder to "slush" the 30W around when hot, like most of the time here. Even though we are fine running with 5W-20 in FL year round, running 0W-20 will always help the motor on "cold starts", and over the long haul better gas mileage results. I have always been a 3000 mile oil change guy, and ran good quality dino oil, but I decided to go to 0W20 full syn for two reasons, better quality oil for the motor and the ability to run 5000 miles per oil change without worry. I figured every 10,000 miles or so I would do 3 oil changes with dino, and with full syn only 2. So, at the end of the day the cost of oil changes is about the same, but I feel I am protecting the motor as good if not better, and I only do 2 changes every 10,000 miles which is better for the envroinment as well.