Dana Axles

$6500?
Damn you don't do much research.
It cost $3,000 max to build a Toy axle..I'm sorry but buying new stuff is really stupid, and even if I did buy new..I could still build my Toy axle for a hair under $3,000.
Providing I set up gears myself(which I would), providing I put everything together myself(which I would)

and $1100 junkyard D60?
I can get kingpin D60s alot cheaper then that lol..i'm sorry you have to pay that much
Do I choose to ? Nah I keep my Toyota stuff under Toyota stuff.


Bang for the buck? Yes, if that's the route you want to choose..I'm not denying D60 is a bad axle, but i'd still drop in the rock garden with my axle vs your 60...i'll come out unscathed...you might or might not..i'm not sure..but I know I'm 100% sure I won't break, I don't like breaking on the trail..
I've seen many many sheared rings and broken u joints because of locked 60s..
lock a 9.25 Toy with Bobby Longs and it's bulletproof.
I like gear reduction, not skinny pedal...

No need to get your panties in a bunch, 05+ Tacos sas? Cool if your into it, too much money money that I can't afford lol lol and too easily to mess up the body....and I'm only into older Toyota 4wds...only new Toyota stuff I'd touch is 2wd Tacoma again..

 

Not the second gens.

Edit: I see it's been covered. Carry on then.

 

yes I forgot 2nd gens aren't real trucks

And yet somehow my 2nd gen does tons of pulling all the time and the rear diff is just fine

 

so acording to supratt the dana 60 is the stronger axel and if you where so inclined dana 60's front and rear would be a nice set up for 40 inch tires.

if i ever did my truck thats what i would do

i'm thinking real hard on a sas and have been trying to piece together some info here and there for in a couple of short years i'm doing this to mine along with the diesel toyz d4d swap.

 

sub'd

 

1tons are the stronger ones, if youre gonna go all out and afford it go ahead and do tons, i still wish i had the money for tons but i have way too much $$ in my axles to justify getting rid of them

 

D60s have their downfalls though, they are very, very heavy and have huge pumpkins and need to be shaved. They aren't DD friendly either, so if you want to build it to be a DD it's harder than say a D44. D60 rear isn't the greatest, alot of people like the chevy 14 bolt rear end, especially once it's shaved. To each their own though.. D60 front is the way to go if you want serious wheeling to be done. If you have a toyota truck a toyota axle is the way to go, otherwise it's just too wide. Each have their strong points and weak points. I wheel with people with 60s 44s and toy axles and everyone does amazing, but narrowing areas of course the toyota axle wins.

 

now i'm just confused again lol.

it will still be my dd of that there is no doubt.

there was a guy in jersey that had sold his 2nd gen that had solid axels installed on it.

i'm trying to remember the name i think its was black diamond fab or something or maybe just diamond fab idk.

i heard they where pretty nice i'm not sure what axel he had under his truck though.

i still want it to be livable on the street but i want the larger tires and all the benifits that come along with the solid axel off road. so you think that if i went with a 40 inch tire that the toyota rear would be ok out back and a dana 60 would be good up front right?

edit: the reason i brought up the other members truck was because i plan on having a shop do everything on my truck and for this kind of work i would think its important to really do it right the first time around.

 

I put together an estimate to show where the money goes.



[FONT=&quot]Estimate[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Date: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]January 2, 2012[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Job:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Misc Custom Toy Axle Build [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Qty[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Description[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Rate[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Amount[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Custom Toy Housing - Diamond[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]900.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Core [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]400.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]E-Locker – 5.29 HP - Inchworm[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1300.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Longfield Superset[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]650.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Longfield Hub Gears[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]120.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]High Steer Arms w/ 25mm upgrade - Marlin[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]450.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]2[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Drill & Tap Knuckles for D44 Studs[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]100.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Stud Kit – Steering Arm – Parts Mike[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]57.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hub Stud Kit – ARP - FROR [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]70.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Tie Rod – 1.25x.250 DOM[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]80.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Drag Link – 1.25x.250 DOM[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]80.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One Ton TRE Kit – Partsmike[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]115.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Taper Arms for TRE’s[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]25.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Knuckle R/B Kit – Marlin[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]50.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]2[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Brake Calipers – T/G[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]220.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]2[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Powerslot Brake Rotors[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]220.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Brake Pads –Hawk HPS[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]80.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Extended Brake Line Set – T/G[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]50.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Wheel Bearing Kit - Marlin[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]100.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Rock Ring Kit – T/G[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]20.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Backing Plate Eliminator Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]20.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]2[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]HD Inner Axle Seal – Marlin[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Labor – Build Axle [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]300.00[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Total[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]5425.00[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]​

 

Now let me have a crack at your arguments.

1- How can you build a Toyota Axle as strong as a D60 without buying new parts?

2- Setting up the gears will save you $200.

3- A lot of people aren't stupid, maybe they just can't build an axle.

4- I'm glad you don't pay that much, but sometimes to get the right axle, that's what it costs.

5- How the hell does having a Toyota axle under your truck make you a better wheeler??? Don't tell me weight...

6-

7- We are talking about Strength vs Cost. Some people who have the money CAN build newer trucks. Don't make them feel bad about it.

 

I agree. I have a '97 Taco I'm building and I want about a 65" WMS. But the newest Tacos ('05+) are very wide trucks and a 71" wide axle under them is proportionally correct.

 

I forgot to add the price of custom inner axles for the Toyota custom axle. If you get a custom housing, inners cost an additional $500 for 30 spline shafts. You can deduct the cost from Longfield, but the joints are still $300 each, without shafts.

 

everything has a weakpoint...hell even rockwells


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=IFRvLykhlBQ

 

The best combo for lighter rigs that I have seen is a 14 bolt rear and a D44 front. I know of a couple lighter rigs that run this setup without complaints. Yes, they are not the "end of the world" strong setups; but for running <40x12 tires they are great. The Sami has 36x10.5 tires with hydro steering and it gets around great.

 

I'm likeing this thread

Stunt man, as far as running the stock rear axle, maybe if you have a real toyota axle, then yes. but the 05+ are junk I guess. If you want to run 60s on your truck as a DD you will need to have dropped about 400 hours of labor ( ) and about $10,000 $15,000k worth of parts. Tires alone cost $2k. And if you don't built it yourself, PM stoffregen about how much it'll cost, he knows.

My estimates are going by a VERY SAFE and RELIABLE DD rig. Not some thrown together junk yard piece of shit parts used on your rig IN ORDER TO SAVE YOUR LIFE AND EVERYONE ELSES on the road.

 

lol price is pretty accurate, we sas'd my shit in one weekend though (minus the gears)

 

ive messed up a shock, bent tie rods, broke an axle shaft+u-joint, a drive shaft, and my front hanger...the more you wheel the more you find flaws in your rig and the more chances you have to improve it, especially if your broke...my next upgrade is chrome molly shafts, but really it takes a long time and alotta work to get a rig near perfect


the drive shaft was from it being a faulty part though...

 

lol i have limited funds, 265k miles and im a little touched in the head

 

The work I've seen by Stroeffegen was top notch.

I'm thinking Dana 60s F/R and 37s or possibly a sterling, leaf sprung f/r. Likely won't be a DD but I'd want to be able to drive it cross multiple states w/o issue. The clearance of the pumpkin probably wouldn't be a deal breaker for me over 44s. I'd rather have the larger brakes/bearings/joints/gears etc... for this purpose I'd love a factory fresh axle. Or even an axle a few years old.

Diamonds would be nice with some LC 9.5 diffs but the wait time and the cost seem prohibitive.

I do wonder about the 10.5" Tundra axle in the rear. Still semi-float though

 

If you went 37"s with 60s you'd be a damn rock anchor! It would just be silly.. In your case the best deal would be to go with custom housings..