Step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Nice write up man, but I have to ask: What is causing you to blow 3-4 sets of gears?

This is interesting...

 

could be anything from driving habits, bent axle housing or even a bent axle shaft which i need to check before i reinstall everything. hopefully with in the next few days.

 

I see...

I'm asking because I'm due to regear here soon... I don't want it to be a routine thing ya know...

 

only other person that i know who has been through several like me is HBMurphy

 

Does anybody know of a step-by-step for a non-locker axle?

 

Pretty much the same, just eliminate the steps dealing with the locker motor.

 

Cool.

Doing some research to decide if I want to deal with this myself or just have a shop do it.

 

One person with hand tools can swap a third member in about 2 hours on the first try.

Ask me how I know.

There is no way I'd pay a shop a heavy labor rate to swap diffs. It's all unbolting and re-bolting, with a break in the middle to clean a few things and squirb some RTV gasket on.

Better option is to purchase regeared diffs with the core charge, send your cores back to seller, and swap 'em in yourself. Can be done in a single day once you have the parts, done in time for dinner if you have a buddy to help you and an impact gun.

 

Ya, I'm really thinking about doing this with East Coast Gears. I'm not so much worried about the back. This write-up was great and explained it in detail. I just don't want to have to deal with tearing apart the front lift kit to get to the front clamshell... That looks more involved..

 

it's not as hard as you may think it is. there's a step by step procedure listed at ECGS for the front diff removal, it's pretty good but without pictures.

 

If you have a buddy and a weekend, really should only take you a day, you can do the front as well.

I made a sorta writeup on here.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/179500-re-gear-writeup.html

 

What Monkey said. Pulling the front diff is still just bolts like the rear diff...there's just more of them.

 

I like doing fronts better as you don't have to bleed brakes. Here is a write up we did with pics someone should transfer it on here ill see if i possess the skills to do so.

 

I know my 09 brakes, bleeding is very simple. Put a hose on the bleed nipple, the other end in a bottle, turn the ignition on, have someone touch the brake pedal (or a 2x4 between the steering wheel and brake), open the bleed screw and let the ABS unit do the work for you and as soon as the bubbles are gone, do the other side.

 

Yeah, that hydraulic accumulator they stick in there for the Traction System That Must Not Be Named is nice like that ain't it?

 

Although I will specifically admit to naming it that so it doesn't kick this thread up on his daily search function.

 

Fantastic thread! Monkeyproof, Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

 

thanks Mr.Crom

 

The process to install the e-locker 3rd member back into the axle housing is just as easy as it was to remove it.
Before you begin please ensure that you have the following tools and materials that is listed below.


drain pan or bucket
brake clean/parts cleaner spray can
ScotchBrite Pad
shop towels
Ultra Grey RTV Silicone Gasket Maker- Optional
Toyota eLocker Differential Gasket part # 42181-60050- Optional
Red LockTite Thread Locker #271- Optional
3 quarts oil- Lucas 85w140 Dyno Oil is what EastCoastGearSupply recommends
zipties
small pocket screw driver
regular size screwdriver
12mm wrench
14mm wrench x2
12mm socket
14mm socket
24mm socket
socket extension
ratchet driver
Torque Wrench
lug-nut tool
2 jack stands
hydraulic floor jack
choke block

Remove the remaining leftover gear oil that is still setting at the bottom of the housing. I like to use a can of brake clean or parts wash for this step. If you had a broken ring and pinion make sure to get all of the broken pieces out!

It is essential to have a clean surface area to help ensure that a proper leak free seal is formed. A shiny, smooth surface that is free of any debris tells you that it's clean and ready.

Using a ScotchBrite Pad, clean both the 3rd. member and the axle housing:



The next step is to install or form the gasket onto the axle housing. there are two options for this step. Both options yield the same results as a proper gasket. I prefer to use option two.

Option number one is to use the OEM paper gasket, Toyota part number 42181-60050

Option number two is to form a gasket using Ultra Grey RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

Form a gasket around the housing making sure the gasket bead goes on the outside of the studs:


Next step is to install the 3rd. member onto the axle housing.

This next step is vital. It is key to installing the 3rd member onto the housing. The 3rd. member will not fit into the housing if you do not ensure that the e-locker shift fork has been moved over towards the center of the 3rd. member. This position is "locking" the 3rd. member.

Side Note: if you are installing a 3rd. member from ECGS the e-locker shift fork may already have been placed in the proper position prior to shipping it to you. It's still a good idea to double check anyways.

Using a flat tip screwdriver, move the e-locker engagement fork towards the center of the 3rd member:


Place the 3rd. member onto the housing studs, be carefull not to place too much wieght on the 2 long studs that stick out while trying to wiggle the 3rd. into place: