Step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

Once the 3rd. member is firmly in place on to the housing, go ahead place the washers on the studs, there should be 11 of them. This next step is optional but highly recommended since the nuts that secures the 3rd. member to the axle housing often come loose. add a drop or two of Red # 271 LoctTite Thread Locker to each stud.

Thread on each nut, there should be 11 of them.

Using a 12mm socket and torque wrench, tighten each nut in a cross pattern to 18ft. lbs/25Nm:


Next step is to move the e-locker shift fork to the right "un-locking" the locker and going back into normal open diff mode. At the same while moving the shift fork, grab the pinion drive flange and turn back and forth. This ensure that the e-locker shift fork moves it's full travel to "un-lock" itself.


Using a flat tip screwdriver, move the e-locker engagement fork towards the end of the axle tube:


Next step is to install the axle shafts/backing plate back to the axle housing. Use caution while doing this so you don't tear or nick the axle seals. You will have to slightly turn the axle shafts back and forth while pushing them in so the the inner splines line up inside with the 3rd. member.

Push the axle shafts/backing plate back into the housing:


Using a 14mm socket and torque wrench, tighten the backing plate nuts to 27ft. lbs/36Nm:


Connect the ABS sensors on both sides, gently push into place until a "click" is heard:




At this time lets go ahead and make sure that the diff is in the "open" position. Grab the pinion drive flange and rotate it in any direction it. while spinning the drive flange take note of each end of the axle. if you see that the left side is spinning in the opposite direction of the right side we are good to go. the diff is in the "open" position.
If both sides are spinning in the same direction the diff is still "locked". If it's still locked then you will need to move the e-locker shift fork more to the right as described earlier.

 

Now it's time to install the e-locker motor assembly and it's shield. There's nothing to it as it should press right back into place with a firm push. Make sure its all clean and free of any dirt. Dab a tiny bit of grease on the rubber o-ring to ensure that it does not tear as you push the assembly into place.


Push the e-locker motor assembly into place:


Install the e-locker electrical connector bracket and shield. Using a 12mm socket, secure the whole assembly in place:


Connect the two e-locker electrical connectors, gently push until a "click" is heard:


Time to connect the drive shaft to the pinion drive flange. If you made a mark on the flange at disassemble, realign your marks. I like to use a drop or two of red LockTite on my driveshaft bolts.

Using a 14mm wrench, 14mm socket attached to a extension and a torque wrench, tighten each bolt to 65ft. lbs/88Nm:


Using a 12mm socket or wrench, install these brake line hanger bolts:


Install the e-brake cable hanger on both sides:


Put your tires back on making sure each lug-nut is properly secured:


Last and final step is to add the gear oil. Go ahead and install the drain plug and torque that sucker down to 36ft. lbs/49Nm as suggested by the factory service manual. Chase at East Coast Gear Supply recommends in using Lucus Dyno Oil 85w140 and that is what I'm going to use, but not exactly Lucus..not yet at least. There is a special procedure and break-in period for new gears. When that break-in period is over is when i will use the Lucus brand oil. During my break in period i will be using Ford Motorcraft 85w140 gear oil since i get at a nice discount through my place of employment. At around 500 miles is when i will drain the gear oil and switching over to the recommended Lucus Dyno Oil.

Please click on this link for information for proper gear break-in procedures to help ensure a long life for your new gear set. http://www.4x4now.com/gt0999.htm



On a level surface, add approx. 3 quarts gear oil add until you see excess oil spill from the fill hole. Install the fill plug using a 24mm socket and torque wrench to 36ft. lbs/49Nm. Wipe away any excess oil residue:



Congratulations, you are done!

Big thanks to my lovely girlfriend Jasmine who helped with the install and who did a vast majority of the actual work. Which proves that if she can do it so can you!

 

*whistles*


nice write up

 

Great write up.

 

when i get my gears i know who house i am rolling over to . Great right up

 

First of all, whatever everybody else said! Sweet write-up!

Second, where's your tail pipe lol?

Third, are you sure you are correct on the 27ft. lbs/36Nm for the axle shaft backing nut? Thought it was a much higher torque setting than that.

 

awesome.

Just one thing. The RTV should always go on the inside of the bolts so oil cant leak out the bolts.


Apply RTV to a clean surface. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Run the
bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind
threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage
when the bolt is tightened


^^^Taken from mechanical assemble guide...

 

i had to chop it off since it got pretzeled from being smashed by rocks while on the trail.

i got those figures from the official Factory Service Manuel(FSM)..section- DF–40 DIFFERENTIAL – REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY.

you can download the FSM from here..

 

nice, thanks for pointing that out! always a good idea to do what is recommended..although i have always applied the bead on the outside and never had a problem with leaks

 

your always pulling the third before it has a chance to leak it seems.


i was just saying. It probably wont leak but thats the logic. Rule of thumb on mechanical assemblies, dont give oil a path by blocking the bolts. Also you probably used enough RTV to wrap around the bolts when you torque it up. Its fine on a diff but on an engine like an oil pan or valve cover you only want a tiny bead. If it squishes to the inside of the cover the excess can come off and plug oil passages. Not in this application though. They were really strict on stuff like this in school.

None the less, Great write up!!!

 

i hope i wasnt too harsh with that one


Like i said, its fine for this application but i wouldnt use that much on an engine cover.

i had a dirtbike seize up on me and I took it apart and the oil pickup was clogged with RTV bits from going too heavy on the engine covers. the rtv squishes into the oil area and eventually will peel off. Just food for thought. You did a great job, you're a keeper. My girl helped me work on my truck when we were dating, i married her!

 

i meant harsh with the not enough time to develop a leak comment lol.

 

I stand corrected. This is funny. Here is the online FSM you linked me to for the 2006 tacoma (27 ft/lb):




Now look at the FJ Cruiser manual (this is what I was referencing, didn't realize they are THAT different...) 91 ft/lbs

 

very nice!

i think the difference between the two very different torque values between the FJ Cruiser and the Tacoma is the FJ Cruiser has disc brakes and the Tacoma has drum brakes.

 

I'm glad you caught my mistake. I'm going to be regearing soon and may likely do myself based on this write-up (Jasmine set the bar a bit high...)

Had I torqued to 91 ft/lbs, those bolts could have snapped off or something.

 

Big props for the write up Tom! Definitely helped me put my 3rd member back in, even though you took it out

Took my three tries to get the locker motor back in correctly, I kept getting the harness bracket the wrong way, forgot the dust shield, etc.

Use a knife and sand paper to get the old gasket shit off, and made it nice a shiny clean.

I only manage to get a quart and a half of 85w140 in the diff before it was oozing out. My gear guy said to do the break in thing for a few days and it should be good.

 

I'd say ultra grey is fine. I used ultra black IIRC.