is it possible to get your high beams and lows on at the same time?

any one know of a way to have the high beams and low beams on at the same time?

 

Wheelers Off Road sells them I believe.

 

there has got to be a way to do this with some wire splices.....the bright box looks nice but it is a bit pricey...i would just do HIDS for that money

 

lol may work...maybe add a toggle switch some where in there and have it only when i want it....looks like im gonna be getting a wiring diagram soon bahaha

 

Be warned, high+low beams together creates a lot of heat and may melt housings and wires.

 

i was more concerned about it blowing a 45 dollar bulb but thanks for the heads up

 

thanks man!

 

I edited this post, see below.

I don't know for sure, but the britebox is probably just a relay and wire with a set of instructions which wire to tap.

Edit: This: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KCC-6314/?rtype=10 has been out for years and claims to do the same thing. Marketed for Chevys with the quad lights up front, but no reason why it won't work on a Tacoma, other than heat issues with the light housing and wiring. Looks like a relay and some splices to me, for twenty bucks might be worth it to buy prefabbed. But those briteboxes can't be any more complicated, way overpriced! You are paying for the knowledge of how the lighting system works. Most people don't understand electrical.

Second edit: Just read Wolfpack's post and was checking out the wiring diagrams. Your truck has ground switched headlights. That changes things. It's the same setup that the pre-Tacoma trucks had. I actually know how to make it work, with one hang up: the high beam indicator won't work anymore. It is a weird system. It took me a couple days to figure out how to make a relay harness for my 86 pickup when I rewired it for 100W high beams. I figured it out, but I wasn't trying to run the lows and highs at the same time either. I will ponder this. In the meantime, maybe someone else can add.

 

Do you have DRL?

 

So I looked at the Britebox instructions and I think I know what they did.

There are three wires at each headlight. One is constant hot twelve volts whenever the main headlight switch is on. The other two are switched grounds for the high and low beam. Identify which is which and try this:

The hot wire stays connected to the headlight and then you need to tap into it and connect to one side of your new relay's coil and also to one side of the relay's switched contacts (terminal 87 or 30). The low beam ground wire gets disconnected and the low beam side of the headlight gets grounded to the chassis. Leave the high beam ground wire hooked up and tap into it and use it to provide the ground to your new relay's coil. Standard relays use terminal 85 and 86 for the coil. Now connect the disconnected low beam wire that was originally connected to the low beam side of the headlight to the other switched terminal on the relay (87 or 30).

All this relay is doing is backfeeding power into the high beam indicator light on the dash. The factory headlight relay and dimmer switch are still doing the same thing they did before, but no longer have the capability of switching the low beam off when you go to high beam. You only need to put this relay in on one side of the truck. On the other side you just cut the ground to the low beam and ground the headlight side of the harness to the chassis, then cap the switch side of the harness.

Like I said, this is how I think Britebox does it. I see no external fuses, so no connection to the battery. Certainly not how I would do it. I could come up with MY way and TRY to explain it. So far, in my head it involves about 5 relays. The reason I would do it differently is because the factory headlight fuses are only 10 amps per side. With a 55W low and 65W high, thats 120W or 10 amps. I really do not see how the Britebox does not blow fuses. But you can try it AT YOUR OWN RISK.

If you have DRL all this goes out the window. It's totally different. I have not begun to try and understand that system.

As far as making the dual filament operation selectable (toggle switch), that's more complex than I care to try and dream up right now.

If you do it, post up results.

 

i dont mind loosing the high beam indicator....

no thank god

im still working out a way to toggle it....i was playing with the factory headlight / highbeam swith today ad noticed that if you push the stick forward halfway both high and lows come on....maybe something could be done there. maybe jump a wire from the low relay to the high relay and add a toggle in the middle.

 

If you don't care about the indicator, just find the low beam ground wire under the dash before it goes into the dimmer switch. Take that wire and splice into it and attach the spliced wire to one side of the toggle switch. Connect the other side of the switch to ground. When you switch to high beam the dimmer switch disconnects the low beam ground. Flip the toggle switch and you provide another path to ground for the low beams. This will give you normal operation with the toggle in the off position, and make the low beams stay on with the highs with the toggle in the on position.

The reason this is sketchy is because you have constant positive power at each headlight that feeds both high and low beams through a 10 amp fuse. You are pushing the limits of the wire and fuse on the positive side if you do this modification. Upsizing a fuse is never safe, potentially blowing a fuse can be dangerous too if you lose your lights.

You could rewire with relays and avoid overloading the stock wiring. It actually shouldn't be too bad if you don't care about the high beam indicator.

 

Looking at the wiring diagram it should be a red wire with green stripe. If you notice, that wire is also connected to the high beam indicator light. The way this works is that power is always present at one side of the low beam filament. Power travels through the low beam filament and to ground through the dimmer switch on the steering column. If you take the ground path away by flipping the dimmer switch to high beam, the power will go to ground through the path of least resistance, which is the high beam indicator bulb. It's high resistance, so the low beams won't light up, but that is what activates the indicator. If the low beams and high beams are both on, no power will flow to ground through the indicator light because there is a lower resistance path available to it (your new switch you want to install).

Once again, I think this is a sketchy mod, although I can't see how the brite box is doing things any different, since it does not have any external power leads coming out of it in the picture on their site.

 

yes it is.

 

if you pull back like your flashing them at someone and hold it like that it works

 

Just wondering what the purpose would be for this, people coming at you from the opposite direction will be cursing you and for wheeling in the dark I have one of those handheld spots, I find them a bit more versatile.

 

i usually turn my brights off when people pass me on the road but if you have ever gotten the brights and the lows on at the same time you will see how much of a difference it makes. the more i look at this though the more i see a wire melting or a fuse blowing while im going down the road.

 

Why not just run some 55/100W bulbs? Others have posted on here that they have run them with stock wiring. I wouldn't want to, but I'm pretty conservative. You could just try them out with the stock wiring and if you like them get a relay harness to upgrade the wiring. I've seen them on ebay under the Putco name for maybe 40 bucks. My buddy has one on his Jeep, it has held up well for several years with 90/100W bulbs.

If you don't like the 55/100s just take them out and go HID. You'd be out around 30 bucks.