Dealer wants to replace entire driveshaft....

arent U joints a pretty cheap part? Id say take the truck home and do it yourself.

 

I really appreciate the input from you all. Glad to finally be a poster instead of a silent observer!

 

And the driveshaft is connected to the axle, which the wheels are
bolted to, so you will need new rims also?..... dealer is a freaking
thief, needs to be a way to report that kind of stuff to the BBB

 

they did the same exact thing to me, but it was covered under warranty so i said what the hell. i got it back the same day so no big deal.

 

Just going to rip it out myself and take it to a local driveshaft specialist who, for $110 will replace the u-joints and make sure its balanced. So... I have some experience replacing u-joints but if you guys could throw some insight of certain things to be careful of, id appreciate it!

 

Thats a good deal, and since our drive shafts are american, youll get factory ujoints. To uninstall all u need to do is remove the four axle bolts and the two carrier bearing bolts, slide the shaft out. Cover the slip joint with a clean plastic bag as well as the end of the tranny. All done. 30 minute job with the rear tires jacked up so the ds spins.

Good luck

 

Replacing u joints on these drive shafts are a royal pain in the ass!!!!!!!! If you have the opertunity to have the whole drive shaft repalced go for it. And insist on getting a new carrier bearing at the same time!!

 

go to www.oliverscustomdriveshaft.com and give them up, they will hook you up with a nice amazing quality driveshafts for a good price. thats what i run on my yota

 

He's out of warranty and paying out of pocket... he's got the opportunity to do whatever he wishes but it comes with a hefty bill at the end!

 

Just buy and do your self man

Holly cow. 5438 since end oct ha

 

i sent an email to Tom Woods.. awaiting reply, what am i looking at pricewise to get one?

 

give olivers a call too, i think youd be lookin 300-500 for a tw shaft?

 

Are u stock? Some people get benefits from them but after their lifted. I myself dont like the idea of the DS hanging down so low, as the direct connection loses alot of clearance. The DS shop tha u qouted will be your cheapest option, and if your stock and plan on staying stock the best option IMHO.

Good luck with your choice

 

I took my stock DS to a local driveline shop ( Gregories in Va Beach) and they cannibalized mine to build a 1 piece CV DS for 320 bucks with a new joints, pianted it up nice, and ballanced it.

Thats alot cheaper than Tom Woods and I didnt have to have it shipped to me.

Justin

 

Yes, Im stock. So i think Ill just go with the ds shop around here and just replace the u-joints and carrier bearing. Now i know i should mark some things before i remove the ds to ensure I reinstall in properly to avoid vibrations or pinion damage down the road. What exactly should i mark to make sure its reinstalled properly?

 

you would mark the flange on the driveshaft and the pinion drive flange..one mark staight across both. when you throw it back on make sure you properly torque the bolts to 65ft./lbs as stated in the factory service manuel..

these pics are from my rear diff removal topic..

Mark a spot on the drive shaft and pinion flange like so using a paint marker:


Using a 14mm wrench, 14mm socket attached to a extension and a torque wrench, tighten each bolt to 65ft. lbs/88Nm:

 

Huge thanks monkeyproof!

 

Yeah, you don't need a Tom woods shaft for an unlifted truck.

Your idea to remove, take to local driveline shop, have them do U joints and balance, then replace is the best course.

Dealer want to do less work while making more money. Not a hard call to make in their shoes.

If it needs to be replaced due to rusting, the driveline shop will fab one up for you for a hell of a lot less than 1400.

 

Post a pic of the rust. I guess it depends on how much and where?

They are easy to do IF you know how. But easy to screw up if you do not. Find some one who has done them to help.

 

i have to pick it up from the dealership after work and I'll post some pics. I'm not worried about removing it as much as I am about reinstalling it properly. Also, should i replace the center/carrier bearing while I have it apart? Not too sure on how to tell if that is bad